I've got a new carburetor and DUI distributor coming so I can get rid of the feedback system and computer.

The Smog Pump has a valve that is computer controlled as far as i can tell, so once the computer is gone - what happens to it?

It is driven by an independent belt so removing it won't cause issues at that end. I need to know what to do about the pipe going into the exhaust pipe (looks like it's welded in) and then the other pipe the looks like it's going into the intake manifold. In terms of the manifold - does that just thread in and if so, I could put a plug in it's place?

Following the same logic, what about EGR removal (how to plug lines, etc)

I'm trying to simplify this old girl; basic carburetor and distributor and get rid of the other 'stuff' (no emissions testing where i am, before anyone asks)

Help anyone?

trying to solve the poor idle / low power issues it's having. Back to basics..

 

If you remove the smog pump the cats will soon foul, so either remove or gut... ~Bill

 

I have never heard that before. The only thing that ruins the cats that I ever heard of was the carb running too rich and they overheat and melt.

You are going to have to plug the lines any way you can if you take this stuff off.

 

Cats are long gone, forgot to mention that.

I'm a little confused by the connections on this thing. The smog pump is supposed to feed to the exhaust, but there is a connection to the intake manifold. There is a check valve in that line, that has deteriorated.

I'm wondering if this is actually some sort of output from the intake (Large vacuum line?) that somehow helps control the smog system? It runs to a large valve.

From what I can see, the output of the pump goes to what looks like a large valve. The valve then has two connections; one going down to the exhaust pipe (not the exhaust manifold) and the other routing up through a check valve (?) under the carb and apparently into the intake manifold.

I'd have to pull the carb to be sure how it routes and that may be my next steps; since the new carb and distributor are enroute anyway.

The frustrating thing about this is that the truck was running basically ok and I planned to do the conversion down the road. Then all of a sudden it started running real rough and had no power. Then it wouldn't start when cold.

The starting issue is pointing to a choke problem, but everything else seems to be pointing to issues with either the feedback carb or vacuum (although I can't find any vacuum leaks). I'm thinking the conversion will simplify things a great deal.

At least that's the plan.,,,


BTW, no check engine lights but then, I don't get a test light when I turn on the key either so...

I might go ahead and see if there are any codes; anyone know where the test connector is on this beast?

Thanks!

 

My truck is the same way. Choke closes completely when cold but still takes some doing to start. I suspect it may have something to do with the rotted check valve on the intake.

There's an orange connector on the passenger side apron. If you Google "Ford OBD I" there is a page that shows what to jump where with a jumper wire and test light to pull the codes via flashing light. ~Bill

 

Suspect what has to do with the rotted valve?

Your issue or mine? LOL

On yours, it sounds like the choke pull down valve may have an issue. Mine won't start at all unless I prop open the choke. I did check my pull down valve at it was fine. I'm thinking I need to do a 'seasonal' choke adjustment. Oh.. and I think my water pump is going out.. fan moves up and down a little and noise from the pump.. (it never ends - give one system some attention and the others get jealous..)

Or just bag it until my new carb and distributor get here.. (most likely the plan...)

I have two vehicles and both are down at the moment. I'm renting a car for a week to buy some time to get at least one of them running..

2005 Chevy Uplander - getting 'reduced engine power' - Need new electrical connector to throttle body. I have the parts, just need the time to make the connector. Also needs new brakes.

The plan was to drive the truck while i got the van fixed. Now that the truck is down; looks like I'm renting and fixing the van first as that may be the quickest route to getting a vehicle to drive again.

Sure wish I had $$ and I'd just buy a new daily driver..

I like working on the truck; but not when i need it...

I planned to have my '63 done but now it's on hold as well.

SO...

Rent Car
Fix Van
Return Rental
Fix 85 Truck
Fix Wife's car (ABS Sensor Cables) / Control Arm Bushings
Then get back on the '63 restoration

Sounds like I have my season planned..

 

I see your truck is an 85 so that EGR adapter uneath the carb is actually a one piece casting of aluminum I'm sure unless it has been messed with. The simplest thing is to plug off the EGR with a metal plate of some sort removing it with the two bolts that mounts it. That aluminum spacer has a direct large hole into the intake from the exit side of that EGR valve.

You could have that spacer welded up (as I did for mine at one point)..after removing all of the various vacuum lines and related stuff to that pump be mindful that since you will have no EGR, your ignition timing curve may have to be changed should you experience some "pinging" depending upon what fuel ur using. It's all doable..just be aware what might need to be done.

I'm remembering that the AIR input also goes into this aluminum block that then drops thru the adapter, thru the intake to the exhaust..IIRC. I have in my parts box a complete welded up aluminum base adapter that solves both problems...

found it:



This is the fix from an 86 motor. I had them welded but you can also just cap them off effectively.

You may want to be prepared to replace the original gaskets on both sides of this spacer..they are thick and are built for high temp so you'll want to be able to seal this up to avoid a serious vacuum leak. (something you may already have).

 

If I remove the EGR (would have to block off the pipe from the exhaust) and also the AIR pump, could the spacer just be removed?

Or is the spacer needed for, well, the space?

I'd have to see how the AIR line goes into the spacer; if it's threaded (or I could thread it) I could just put in a plug

I'm thinking the AIR line going down to the exhaust pipe could be cut / crimped or that pipe itself could be replaced with a new system

 

About that exhaust pipe patch..it can be crimped successfully temporarily or crimped and welded shut etc..

 

It could be removed but is needed for a spacer for carb height generally

 

IIRC it is threaded..very easy..

 

Does anyone have a egr spacer for a 1985 ford 300 6 cyl?

 

Do you need it for a spacer or for a working EGR?

If spacer you could make one out of hard wood. Easy to work with and will keep carb from heat.
If for EGR them you will need one.

Have you tried junk yards for it? I am sure it does not need to be from a 85 as my 81 looks the same.
Dave ----


edit: How rude of me, welcome to FTE
You may also post in the WTB (want to buy) area for one might have more luck there.

 

.


Thanks for the info. I was hoping to find one to buy.

 

More than you need, but the best I could find: egr valve housing 1983 Ford pickup truck 300ci 6 cylinder 4.9L f100 f200 bronco | eBay


By the way, welcome to the forum!