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  #16  
Old 12-04-2013, 01:44 PM
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well, my truck seemed to be running normal again pretty much right away, but I did drive another 200 miles to the cabin and back after I ran it dry, so hopefully any more trapped air is out.

I still can't get over that feeling of just sitting there in the middle of an uphill one-way street thinking: "well, this is it, my engine has broken itself apart and i'm going to have to ride a tow truck 200 miles home and start tearing her apart this weekend." its like in the movies - though it wasn't my life that flashed in front of my eyes, but my truck's life.

at least it was just a scare!
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96 F250 SCLB 4x4 7.3L PSD - RED (RIP - the part out has begun)
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  #17  
Old 12-04-2013, 02:27 PM
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I run my rear tank dry on almost every fill... that is how I know it's empty.

When my gauge hits E I usually have about 10G left... so I run it till she starts loosing power and switch tanks.... recovery is about 30s

Richard
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  #18  
Old 12-04-2013, 02:44 PM
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I guess I just let it go a little too long before switching tanks. as soon as I felt it going, I switched tanks, but I guess I was too late - or maybe my fuel pump is a little weak.

and you say you have 10 GALLONS left when you're on E? that doesn't sound right.
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97 F350 CCLB 4x4 7.3L PSD - WHITE (361k mi - DD, auto->ZF5, 3.55LS, 6637, 3"DP->StraightPipe, 33x12.5x16.5's, object of more upgrades)
97 F250 RCLB 2WD 5.8L gas - BLUE (ZF5, 3.55, distant-future-project-truck - 235k mi)
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  #19  
Old 12-04-2013, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldWoodsDiesel View Post
I guess I just let it go a little too long before switching tanks. as soon as I felt it going, I switched tanks, but I guess I was too late - or maybe my fuel pump is a little weak.

and you say you have 10 GALLONS left when you're on E? that doesn't sound right.
I have the 38g tank... I need to pull the bed and take a good look at the float extension. I paid a guy to install the tank (he gave me a great deal).

Richard
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  #20  
Old 12-04-2013, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbird1965 View Post
Home

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/96...-mod-redo.html

No Thomas, there is a one inch or so rubber tube that runs down the larger fill tube. Around the rubber tube is your vent, the difference between the size of the fill line and rubber hose, while the rubber tube carries the fuel. It is way to small to take the volume of fuel that can be pumped thus shutting off the pump.

In the picture you have to drill a hole by the top of the fill line and run a hose from the top of the tank where the roll over valve is. This of course is after you pull the inner rubber hose out and throw it away.

See that's why these guys are the best! Thank you Glenn for the correction. I knew what I meant in my head (or so I thought) but sometimes I can't get it out or in this case it was lack of understanding. Thanks Glenn I'll send reps if I can!
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  #21  
Old 12-04-2013, 10:58 PM
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No problem Thomas, pulling that 5er I end up at a lot of truck stops because they have room to get around. The vent mod was high on my list, LOL. The one pictured is my new 38 gallon tank that I got started on but haven't finished yet. It is the biggest vent I've attempted to run yet.
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  #22  
Old 12-05-2013, 02:56 PM
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for what its worth, I did the vent mod on my front tank and it hasn't made a lick of difference on the fuel station pump clicking off. plus it holds quite a bit of pressure/vacuum now, depending temperature or fuel consumption.

when I get around to replacing my bed and doing the bronco rear tank, i'm going to just add a big time atmospheric vent and tuck it way high up in the bed side somewhere with a good length downward-pointing leg so that water can't get up in it. tying the vent back into the filler neck didn't seem to make a bit of difference.

i'm sort of thinking that removing the small inner tube in the filler neck might have done more harm than good in terms of foam development during fill-up, which I think is what causes my clicking off. if I hold the handle so that the filler is just barely in the filler neck and touching the bottom edge of the opening, I can fill full speed. but I still can't go into the store to get my coffee at the same time because I need to hold it just right!
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97 F250 RCLB 2WD 5.8L gas - BLUE (ZF5, 3.55, distant-future-project-truck - 235k mi)
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  #23  
Old 12-05-2013, 06:00 PM
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I dont understand why it took more than 2 min of running to get the air out. These are NOT deadhead systems so any air in the system is sent back to the fuel tank
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  #24  
Old 12-05-2013, 06:28 PM
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I was wondering the same thing. Think of how much air you introduce when you replace the filter. Just did both ours a couple weekends ago, lit 'em off on Monday and they were fine within a couple minutes.
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  #25  
Old 12-05-2013, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldWoodsDiesel View Post
for what its worth, I did the vent mod on my front tank and it hasn't made a lick of difference on the fuel station pump clicking off. plus it holds quite a bit of pressure/vacuum now, depending temperature or fuel consumption.

when I get around to replacing my bed and doing the bronco rear tank, i'm going to just add a big time atmospheric vent and tuck it way high up in the bed side somewhere with a good length downward-pointing leg so that water can't get up in it. tying the vent back into the filler neck didn't seem to make a bit of difference.

i'm sort of thinking that removing the small inner tube in the filler neck might have done more harm than good in terms of foam development during fill-up, which I think is what causes my clicking off. if I hold the handle so that the filler is just barely in the filler neck and touching the bottom edge of the opening, I can fill full speed. but I still can't go into the store to get my coffee at the same time because I need to hold it just right!
I don't understand JP, this is the second truck I've done this to successfully.
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The Mule-96 2WD F250 EC/LB auto, Lots of Mods!! Semi retired, still runs great after years of pulling!!
The Mare 97 dually cc, s366 turbo, stage II's, IC, studs, springs, rods, JW auto, 4:10 LS, efuel, FS2500 bypass oil filter, HVHF IDM, IH WP, 6.0 trans cooler & fan, MBRP 4", SD dual tensioner, AFE intake, 220 amp alt, 38G rear tank, soundproofed, 3 TS chips
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  #26  
Old 12-06-2013, 05:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldWoodsDiesel View Post
for what its worth, I did the vent mod on my front tank and it hasn't made a lick of difference on the fuel station pump clicking off. plus it holds quite a bit of pressure/vacuum now, depending temperature or fuel consumption.

when I get around to replacing my bed and doing the bronco rear tank, i'm going to just add a big time atmospheric vent and tuck it way high up in the bed side somewhere with a good length downward-pointing leg so that water can't get up in it. tying the vent back into the filler neck didn't seem to make a bit of difference.

i'm sort of thinking that removing the small inner tube in the filler neck might have done more harm than good in terms of foam development during fill-up, which I think is what causes my clicking off. if I hold the handle so that the filler is just barely in the filler neck and touching the bottom edge of the opening, I can fill full speed. but I still can't go into the store to get my coffee at the same time because I need to hold it just right!

Does you vent hose have ANY low spot in it? One dip and it will not function correctly
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  #27  
Old 12-06-2013, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbird1965 View Post
I don't understand JP, this is the second truck I've done this to successfully.
huh - does yours hiss a lot when you open the cap? I was afraid that maybe I made mine too airtight...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad View Post
Does you vent hose have ANY low spot in it? One dip and it will not function correctly
I don't think so, but I should check for that since its been a while. I thought I had it routed well, but maybe it sagged over time since the install. good point.
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97 F350 CCLB 4x4 7.3L PSD - WHITE (361k mi - DD, auto->ZF5, 3.55LS, 6637, 3"DP->StraightPipe, 33x12.5x16.5's, object of more upgrades)
97 F250 RCLB 2WD 5.8L gas - BLUE (ZF5, 3.55, distant-future-project-truck - 235k mi)
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  #28  
Old 12-06-2013, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldWoodsDiesel View Post
huh - does yours hiss a lot when you open the cap? I was afraid that maybe I made mine too airtight...



I don't think so, but I should check for that since its been a while. I thought I had it routed well, but maybe it sagged over time since the install. good point.
Mine doesn't 'hiss' at all, sounds like you might have an obstruction in your vent line. Brad makes a good point, mine on my 'mule' dropped down and it didn't work right. I added some hose and looped it up high and fixed it.
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  #29  
Old 12-06-2013, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldWoodsDiesel View Post
huh - does yours hiss a lot when you open the cap? I was afraid that maybe I made mine too airtight...



I don't think so, but I should check for that since its been a while. I thought I had it routed well, but maybe it sagged over time since the install. good point.
I am willing to bet that you have a cap for a gas truck... the diesel caps are vented...

Richard

EDT: Also note that I am VERY hesitant to add any kind of atmo vent with out some kind of rollover valve. If there is ever an accident and the truck rolls I'd rather not be lying in a puddle of diesel. even the vented caps have protections so that they will not leak diesel in the case of a roll over.
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  #30  
Old 12-06-2013, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad View Post
Does you vent hose have ANY low spot in it? One dip and it will not function correctly
That's the problem with mine. The seam or maybe pinch weld on the bottom of the bed is keeping the hose too low in one spot. No reason I can't notch out a spot or grind a bit off there huh?
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Old 12-06-2013, 03:34 PM
 
 
 
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