2000 Model, The fuse keeps blowing on this. I thought it was the cruise control fuse because the cruise kept not working and when I replaced fuse it would work. Only for a little though, then I looked at manual and it says the fuse is for the brake position switch. I am presuming this is just like the old days and that is the brake light switch under the dash. They use to have two wires now there is like five. Anyways I do not see any bare wires or anything that would blow a fuse, is it common for these switches to go out or what?? Thanks for any info

 

Look under hood, drivers side, on the end of the brake master cylinder for the switch. Try disconnecting its electrical connector & see if the fuse continues to blow. If it doesn't, you likely have a cruise control deactivation switch problem & there is a recall ongoing for the switch, or to add a fused wiring harness, or both. The program is 05S28 & the Dealer will be able to determine if your VIN # qualifies for a no cost repair. What color is the deactivation switch insulator. Black is good, Rust Red is bad.

If the fuse continues to blow after disconnecting the switch connector, you likely have a short in the wiring going back to the rear brake lights, or a short in one of the lamp sockets.

Did the problem come about suddenly after some event???? Let us know what you find.

 

been driving truck for 1 1/2 years no problems , just came out of the blue.

That recall says for a switch in the steering column, so if the fuse quits blowing after unplugging the switch on the end of the master cylinder the switch inside the column is bad. I do have the phantom wiper swipe everyonce in awhile, never thought much about it but it does do it.

Also on the color thing, are you talking about the switch on the master cylinder or in column. The one on master cylinder is red. So should I replace switch on end of master cylinder.

Thanks for the help

 

OOOOPS, thanks for waking me up, my feeble mind has confused things & layed down on me again, your right, the 00B40 is for the steering colum mounted multi-function switch, but still, if yours is acting out with the phantom wiper move & the vehicle VIN# is right & Ford hasn't replaced the multi-function switch under the 00B40 program, they'll do it at no cost. My 00B40 letter from Ford didn't have an expiration date listed. Multifunction switch program details. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/272071-recall-00b40-apr-00-99-and-00-ranger-multifunction-switch.html

The Cruise control deactivation switch recall for vehicless with cruise control, is under 05S28. If your deactivation switch has the Rust Red color insulator, I'd check it out right away, or at least disconnect & tape up its electrical connector, until you can get to trouble shooting the problem. You can contact your Dealer with the vehicle VIN # & he can tell you if your on the recall list, in which Ford will replace the switch if its leaking & install the fused wiring harness. Edit: Deactivation switch thread, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ol-recall.html

If the problem is in the wiring to the brake lights, or in the lamp sockets, your on your own.

That deactivation switch with the rust red color insulator is known to fail, leak brake fluid into the switch contacts, & since its always hot with unfused 12 volts, even with the ignition Off, it can cause the brake fluid to boil & flash fire. So, right now with your system blowing fuses, it needs to be checked out without delay, or the electrical connector to the deactivation switch disconnected & taped up, until you can get to it.

Let us know how your trouble shoot goes.

 

So if the cruise control deactivation switch is unfused it cannot be the reason the fuse keeps blowing. I do not have brake lights when this fuse blows either. Something else I have noticed is the fuse always seems to blow when I shut the truck off and restart it, it never just blows once it's running. Is it a common problem for the tail lights to have corrosion or other problems back there. The tail lights will work but the brake lights do not when the fuse blows.

 

You may have mored than one problem. Refer to your repair manual, CD, ect, for the brake light circuit hot wire color code & trace it to see if you can find the short to ground with your multimeter with the fuse to the circuit pulled.

 

I would replace the switch. If the fuse keeps blowing after that, then you have a wiring issue, possibly an intermittent short to ground.

 

Which fuse keeps blowing?

 

It's fuse #13, it is a 20A and the manual say's it is the brake positioning switch.

 

Wrong. It is not SEPARATELY fused. When the switch leaks and shorts, it either blows Fuse F13 or the truck burns up.

Ignore pawpaw's advice concerning the deactivation switch on the brake master cylinder and recall 05S28 at your own peril.

 

Dude, I am not ignoring anybody's advice. I just wanted to make sure I understood everything correctly....

Also I believe the recall has been done, I was looking at the wiring harness at M/C and it looks like it has a little harness with what looks like two fuse holders in it. I have not unwrapped them yet to make sure but that is what they look like. Besides I unplugged switch and it blew the fuse anyway, and I did not see any brake fluid inside plug.

I do appreciate all info....and ALL INFO is taken SERIOUSLY

 

It's interesting that the fuse that blows (#13, 20A) is the same fuse that serves BOTH the Brake Pressure Switch (located on the brake MC) circuit AND the Brake Pedal Position Switch (located on the brake pedal) circuit.

Maybe we've been focusing on the wrong switch.

 

Could it be a combination of the two? Something has to be drawing enough current to pop that fuse...

I'd say it's time to break the multimeter out...

 

Okay, good to know. That leaky switch is a severe safety issue and accounts for about 98% of all incidences of this particular fuse blowing.

Now, with the harness to the pressure switch unhooked, when does F13 blow? Only when the brake pedal is pressed or does it not matter?

If it's "doesn't matter", then you have an intermittent short to ground on the fuse side of the two wires that go to the respective loads.

If it blows when the pedal is pushed, then it's short circuit in the stop lamp circuit.