Willard build thread
#16
The original transmission mount I retained for frame rail resistance to twist. It is moved back about a foot where it could also serve as the lower end of a driveshaft loop if in the highly unlikely event that the front U joint failed.
Ah ha, I was going to Ask what trans you were using, I was looking at these pictures on my phone and didn't realize you had move the trans crossmember back! what is that bracket on the passenger side rail sticking in, the one you have the fuel line stuck into?
I will drive it regularly. I build them to drive and have never had an interest in the show side of the hobby.
Wow, beautiful chassis for sure. If this is a driver I wouldnt be able to even get close to a show truck if you were to build one!
Just recently I have had just final color shot by a friend that has a one man restoration business complete with a large professional downdraft booth. I can and do use the booth to shoot prime and some color, however, my friend is a better hand at laying on the final color. I always do 100% of the prep, clean his booth, set every piece, mask if required and prep for final color. My friend mixes the paint, shoots the final color and cleans his gun. The $ are in getting it ready for final color. It is an ideal situation for me. I only pay for laying the final color.
Ah ha, I was going to Ask what trans you were using, I was looking at these pictures on my phone and didn't realize you had move the trans crossmember back! what is that bracket on the passenger side rail sticking in, the one you have the fuel line stuck into?
I will drive it regularly. I build them to drive and have never had an interest in the show side of the hobby.
Wow, beautiful chassis for sure. If this is a driver I wouldnt be able to even get close to a show truck if you were to build one!
Just recently I have had just final color shot by a friend that has a one man restoration business complete with a large professional downdraft booth. I can and do use the booth to shoot prime and some color, however, my friend is a better hand at laying on the final color. I always do 100% of the prep, clean his booth, set every piece, mask if required and prep for final color. My friend mixes the paint, shoots the final color and cleans his gun. The $ are in getting it ready for final color. It is an ideal situation for me. I only pay for laying the final color.
Sounds like a great deal! nice to have good friends
#17
I have been making some progress. A few pictures of my cab mounted on the chassis and additional chassis pictures.
Bear with me I am trying to resize the pictures to download them!
With far too much difficulty I did manage to include 4 pix. I did rotate the last one before uploading, however it did not copy rotatated.
Bear with me I am trying to resize the pictures to download them!
With far too much difficulty I did manage to include 4 pix. I did rotate the last one before uploading, however it did not copy rotatated.
#19
#22
#23
Willard will be driven, a lot! I only build drivers. As I tell others, "it's just an old truck".
A while back someone asked for a picture of my drop down battery box. You think that there is all kinds of room until you build the exhaust particularly with the X in the exhaust.
#24
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: northwestern Ontario
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#25
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Island Southeast Alaska
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That's what I'm thinkin. So clean and easy to see with a flash light on
the road side.
I have always had trouble getting silver to stick and stay stuck.
Seems like it will always rub off on everything. But I don't like to clear it
either.
Tell us about the quality of that silver please. Must be a lot better than
any I have used.
#26
#27
That's what I'm thinkin. So clean and easy to see with a flash light on
the road side.
I have always had trouble getting silver to stick and stay stuck.
Seems like it will always rub off on everything. But I don't like to clear it
either.
Tell us about the quality of that silver please. Must be a lot better than
any I have used.
the road side.
I have always had trouble getting silver to stick and stay stuck.
Seems like it will always rub off on everything. But I don't like to clear it
either.
Tell us about the quality of that silver please. Must be a lot better than
any I have used.
The color is a ford car color called "Pewter". The topcoat is Omni paint
#28
Ross, I retained the stock crossmember for frame rigidity just moving it back about a foot and I fabricated a new crossmember for the 700R4.