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Willard build thread

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  #16  
Old 12-02-2013, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 49willard
The original transmission mount I retained for frame rail resistance to twist. It is moved back about a foot where it could also serve as the lower end of a driveshaft loop if in the highly unlikely event that the front U joint failed.

Ah ha, I was going to Ask what trans you were using, I was looking at these pictures on my phone and didn't realize you had move the trans crossmember back! what is that bracket on the passenger side rail sticking in, the one you have the fuel line stuck into?

I will drive it regularly. I build them to drive and have never had an interest in the show side of the hobby.

Wow, beautiful chassis for sure. If this is a driver I wouldnt be able to even get close to a show truck if you were to build one!

Just recently I have had just final color shot by a friend that has a one man restoration business complete with a large professional downdraft booth. I can and do use the booth to shoot prime and some color, however, my friend is a better hand at laying on the final color. I always do 100% of the prep, clean his booth, set every piece, mask if required and prep for final color. My friend mixes the paint, shoots the final color and cleans his gun. The $ are in getting it ready for final color. It is an ideal situation for me. I only pay for laying the final color.

Sounds like a great deal! nice to have good friends
 
  #17  
Old 12-15-2013, 07:05 PM
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I have been making some progress. A few pictures of my cab mounted on the chassis and additional chassis pictures.


Bear with me I am trying to resize the pictures to download them!

With far too much difficulty I did manage to include 4 pix. I did rotate the last one before uploading, however it did not copy rotatated.
 
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  #18  
Old 12-15-2013, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 49willard
I have been making some progress. A few pictures of my cab mounted on the chassis and additional chassis pictures.


Bear with me I am trying to resize the pictures to download them!
I hate that. It sucks. Don't like photo bucket re-size for ya?
Ya I do it myself also. What a pain. Hey Admin add that feature for
us supporters please.
 
  #19  
Old 12-15-2013, 08:13 PM
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[ATTACH][/ATTACH]A couple more. Rotating is a problem and I have not figured out how to delete a photo once it is in a post, suggestions?
 
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  #20  
Old 12-15-2013, 08:59 PM
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looks like a brand new old truck. amazing work. dick r.
 
  #21  
Old 12-15-2013, 09:03 PM
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Yes Sir very nice truck and work
 
  #22  
Old 12-15-2013, 09:17 PM
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To edit a picture once posted, use the Edit button, go to Advanced Edit, then use the Manage Attachments to delete it. (Remove) Then re-attach the rotated (corrected) picture.

Your truck looks far too nice to drive!
 
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Old 12-16-2013, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
To edit a picture once posted, use the Edit button, go to Advanced Edit, then use the Manage Attachments to delete it. (Remove) Then re-attach the rotated (corrected) picture.

Your truck looks far too nice to drive!
Ross, Thanks for the tips. I did manage to use the delete and then reload however at least the picture of the rear of the cab just wants to be sideways! When I go into my picture files it is not sideways. My best advice is to rotate your computer for that pic!

Willard will be driven, a lot! I only build drivers. As I tell others, "it's just an old truck".

A while back someone asked for a picture of my drop down battery box. You think that there is all kinds of room until you build the exhaust particularly with the X in the exhaust.
 
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  #24  
Old 12-16-2013, 08:07 AM
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That silver frame looks amazing Bill, makes everything look like a display in a jewelry shop.
 
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Old 12-16-2013, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 56panelford
That silver frame looks amazing Bill, makes everything look like a display in a jewelry shop.

That's what I'm thinkin. So clean and easy to see with a flash light on
the road side.

I have always had trouble getting silver to stick and stay stuck.
Seems like it will always rub off on everything. But I don't like to clear it
either.
Tell us about the quality of that silver please. Must be a lot better than
any I have used.
 
  #26  
Old 12-16-2013, 12:42 PM
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Here's the cab picture. Am I correct in what I think I see, that a 700R4 clears the stock crossmember???? I may just yank my flathead and drop in a SBC!
Edit: I see, you have a second stock cross member behind the original. Guess the flathead stays...
 
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  #27  
Old 12-16-2013, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by arctic y block
That's what I'm thinkin. So clean and easy to see with a flash light on
the road side.

I have always had trouble getting silver to stick and stay stuck.
Seems like it will always rub off on everything. But I don't like to clear it
either.
Tell us about the quality of that silver please. Must be a lot better than
any I have used.

The color is a ford car color called "Pewter". The topcoat is Omni paint
 
  #28  
Old 12-16-2013, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
Here's the cab picture. Am I correct in what I think I see, that a 700R4 clears the stock crossmember???? I may just yank my flathead and drop in a SBC!
Edit: I see, you have a second stock cross member behind the original. Guess the flathead stays...
Ross, I retained the stock crossmember for frame rigidity just moving it back about a foot and I fabricated a new crossmember for the 700R4.
 
  #29  
Old 12-16-2013, 06:58 PM
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Great looking chassis! Really like your color choices.
 
  #30  
Old 01-15-2014, 05:47 PM
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Some progress. Installed the bed and trailer hitch.
 
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