Bullitt proof Oil Coolers
#1
Bullitt proof Oil Coolers
Hey how effective are the aftermarket oil coolers out there and are they really needed? Was wondering if a stock replacement oil cooler with a new coolant filter installed would be enough to give me more reliability, those aftermarket coolers are VERY expensive. I don't tow very much and with 98,000 miles I'm still running with my original egr and oil coolers with no problems thus far.
thanks!!
thanks!!
#2
It really depends on how much money you have to spend. I purchased and installed one of these bullet proof oil coolers, that route the hot engine oil to a front air condenser to cool it vs using the coolant to do it. I justified it with reading on how much is being demanded of the coolant in these motors. The difficulty in tearing down to getting to it. And the labor rates if I paid someone to do it. And the off chance it clogs again in 20k. As mine was replaced previously by dealer before I bought it. With that knowledge and a couple videos I did it myself for about the same price. I would not recommend anyone "bulletproofing" the 6.0 just to address a potential problem. But with 37 degree deltas I don't consider it so much bulletproofing but addressing a problem.
Btw.. It is very effective. I hardly look at deltas anymore as it doesn't mean anything anymore. But it keeps them within a couple degrees .if I were you I would buy a coolant filter, get a scangauge 2 if you don't already. Then if it ever does clog you can make that
decision
Btw.. It is very effective. I hardly look at deltas anymore as it doesn't mean anything anymore. But it keeps them within a couple degrees .if I were you I would buy a coolant filter, get a scangauge 2 if you don't already. Then if it ever does clog you can make that
decision
#4
#5
No. I think it might be closer to 15 The difference is not that much. It takes a lot the first to fill it all up, but on oil changes it seems like the same , last change it took around 13.5-14. Excluding the filter. I forget I pre-fill that monstrosity separately. Lol. That thing is heavy when full trying to get it threaded on.
#7
No. I think it might be closer to 15 The difference is not that much. It takes a lot the first to fill it all up, but on oil changes it seems like the same , last change it took around 13.5-14. Excluding the filter. I forget I pre-fill that monstrosity separately. Lol. That thing is heavy when full trying to get it threaded on.
Exactly what I was thinking
These BPD Air to Oil Coolers are leaving ALOT of Dirty/Sheared thin Oil in there up to 15qts Remains after an Oil Change
But it does a Good Job cooling the Oil and eliminates any possibility of Oil/Coolant mix
But at a Price
its a HIGH Dollar unit that Speeds Engine Wear and Injector wear from dirty and sheared Oil
Now the OEM Setup Leaves some dirty oil in there but only a Couple qts the Majoirity gets changed
I was Hoping you would tell me It had some Drain Valve or something with the BPD setup for Oil Change Time
Guess that's where they get ya on the Extra Filter systems But the Oil is STill SHeared thin
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#8
#9
Did Ford develop an improvement oil cooler after the 6.0 was discontinued? Seems to me Ford should have just allowed International to further develop and improve the 6.0 instead of canning it for the 6.4. Anyways I think your suggested route will be my course of action when needed.
#10
The OEM Oil Cooler was updated with 1 Extra row
With my Truck the Oil Cooler DID PLUG
BUT the ROOT CAUSE was the Casting Sand that DID Not get cleaned out
So I Flushed that Truck like Nothing Iv ever done Before Added a Coolant filter and Put a OEM Oil Cooler back in and its Been 25K Since and Temps Spread is as Good as the day it was Installed
Here it Is
Now Notice how Clean every Oil Row was so what you See In the Row the screwdriver points to is Casting Sand
NOT Junk from the CUT of the Cooler
I scraped that stuff Back even It was SAME Cast sand
With my Truck the Oil Cooler DID PLUG
BUT the ROOT CAUSE was the Casting Sand that DID Not get cleaned out
So I Flushed that Truck like Nothing Iv ever done Before Added a Coolant filter and Put a OEM Oil Cooler back in and its Been 25K Since and Temps Spread is as Good as the day it was Installed
Here it Is
Now Notice how Clean every Oil Row was so what you See In the Row the screwdriver points to is Casting Sand
NOT Junk from the CUT of the Cooler
I scraped that stuff Back even It was SAME Cast sand
#11
The Square coolers were designed to further cool the incoming exhaust gases versus the older round cooler.
If you want to stay with a functioning EGR cooler you'll need digital gauges to monitor ECT/EOT. Keep the average temp difference under 15 degrees unloaded @ cruising speeds above 1800 rpm and there won't be an issue with any of the coolers.
When it comes to oil coolers, there are many many choices, but again with an EGR delete it doesn't matter as much.
Josh
#12
I'm Bullitt, nice to meet you. I weld up EGR Coolers, therefore, BULLITT Proof.
The Square coolers were designed to further cool the incoming exhaust gases versus the older round cooler.
If you want to stay with a functioning EGR cooler you'll need digital gauges to monitor ECT/EOT. Keep the average temp difference under 15 degrees unloaded @ cruising speeds above 1800 rpm and there won't be an issue with any of the coolers.
When it comes to oil coolers, there are many many choices, but again with an EGR delete it doesn't matter as much.
Josh
The Square coolers were designed to further cool the incoming exhaust gases versus the older round cooler.
If you want to stay with a functioning EGR cooler you'll need digital gauges to monitor ECT/EOT. Keep the average temp difference under 15 degrees unloaded @ cruising speeds above 1800 rpm and there won't be an issue with any of the coolers.
When it comes to oil coolers, there are many many choices, but again with an EGR delete it doesn't matter as much.
Josh
#13
The OEM Oil Cooler was updated with 1 Extra row
With my Truck the Oil Cooler DID PLUG
BUT the ROOT CAUSE was the Casting Sand that DID Not get cleaned out
So I Flushed that Truck like Nothing Iv ever done Before Added a Coolant filter and Put a OEM Oil Cooler back in and its Been 25K Since and Temps Spread is as Good as the day it was Installed
Here it Is
Now Notice how Clean every Oil Row was so what you See In the Row the screwdriver points to is Casting Sand NOT Junk from the CUT of the Cooler
With my Truck the Oil Cooler DID PLUG
BUT the ROOT CAUSE was the Casting Sand that DID Not get cleaned out
So I Flushed that Truck like Nothing Iv ever done Before Added a Coolant filter and Put a OEM Oil Cooler back in and its Been 25K Since and Temps Spread is as Good as the day it was Installed
Here it Is
Now Notice how Clean every Oil Row was so what you See In the Row the screwdriver points to is Casting Sand NOT Junk from the CUT of the Cooler
Wow! Not sure an extra row is much an improvement, I wonder if I have casting sand in my engine.
#14
#15
Theres Another Oil Cooler with Bigger Passages
It can Also Have 100% Filter before OIL Cooler
But the Spread is More and EOT Remains Higher SO then you Look at EOT Defuel Point and the Intention of the Truck like Will it tow if so How Heavy
Will it Push into Defuel
You have Many Options with Oil Cooler
It can Also Have 100% Filter before OIL Cooler
But the Spread is More and EOT Remains Higher SO then you Look at EOT Defuel Point and the Intention of the Truck like Will it tow if so How Heavy
Will it Push into Defuel
You have Many Options with Oil Cooler