Well, it looks like the debate is on - what alternator and which belt arrangement to use for Dad's truck. So, let's set the stage:

• The alternator for Dad's truck is toast - the bearings rattle
• This is a restification, so using a later model solution fits right in
• I'm adding power windows, locks, and a medium sound system.
• A "needs" calculator I found online says I need at least 95 amps, but if I were to add electric cooling fans I'd need another 20 amps for each fan. So, I'd rather go for more than 95 amps - at a reasonable cost.
• On the other hand, RJM references a study that says that one belt is good for a max of 95 amps.

So, what are the options? I've found these by perusing the web:

• Salvage Yard: this would be the cheapest route, but it wouldn't look new. In fact, it wouldn't be new and would have no warranty
• O'Reilly's has a 100% new 105 amp unit for $195. It carries a lifetime warranty.
• RJM has a 95 amp for $110 with a one year warranty. But, for $20 more he has a 160 amp unit. Both are 100% new, and use what he says are premium components. Further, he has all the wire, connectors, fuse blocks, etc that I need to not only do the alternator conversion but to replace all the battery and ground cables.
• DCPower has a 1G unit that puts out 180 amps total and 130 amps at idle. But, it costs $450 plus shipping!

So, the question is which vendor to use and how many amps to go with? And, if more than 95 amps do I need 2 belts? If so, how? On the latter the A/C belt looks like it could be extended to include the alternator, although it would be both long and quite different than the standard belt.

Thoughts?

 

Gary..Piece of cake...Go with the 160..New unit..Plenty of reserve..NO future worries !!...J..

 

Bill Vose has one of Ryan's 160 3G's in Darth.
He would be the one for feedback on that.

The problem of belt slippage is twofold.
1) Hard application of load by a black or gray regulator.
A white Load Response Control regulator will ramp up the current and help avoid slippage.
2) There is only so much friction surface on one V-belt.
Media blasting the sheaves will remove glaze and add 'tooth'.
Swapping to an 8rib serpentine belt would definitely solve the problem, but finding a compatible C/M/400 water pump and other accessories is going to be tough.
Plus -IMPO- it would just be too out of place on Dad's Truck.

 

Not necessarily cheap or understated, but there are kits out there... I would go Serp. No need for 8, 6 would be fine.

Ford Gallery At least it's available in black now.

 

I would take a step back. I would not run electric fans. The advantages do not out weight the expense and work to install them. You notice I said "them", you would most likely need two high output junkyard fans to equal the extra cooling option that could be had on these trucks.

So that means you can still use your single v-belt, and a regular alternator 95 amps or less. I believe the largest battery you can fit in the truck along with the stock alternator would be good enough for your purposes. After-all a electric window event is only a high current draw for what, about 10 seconds max? I can't see you installing a 1000w stereo or am I wrong?

 

My 130A works fine on one belt.
Granted, I don't have a lot of high draw accessories, but my 3G is going to last as it doesn't have to work very hard.

 

In reverse order:
Dave - I didn't say I wanted to run fans, plural, but was just quoting what I'd read about their input requirements and using that as justification for the overkill of 160 amps. And, you are right about the stereo - although the components might be advertized as adding to 350 watts, that's someones pipe dream. So, your suggestion of staying with a 95 amp unit is probably good guidance - although I do want to explore the options before deciding.

Matt - Hey, where you been? Btw, did you see my note about probably missing the Carlisle event due to a new grandkid? Anyway, I think that serpentine system is a little OTT for Dad's truck. But thanks!

Jim - You have a good point about working less. I'll bet a 160 working at 60 runs cool. As for the LRC regulator, I emailed Ryan and asked if it is available.

 

So, here's a possibility on 2 v-belts.

Attached are a couple of pictures trying to explain what I'm thinking of. Looks like I could add a 2-belt pulley to the alternator and stick a longer belt on the A/C. With the idler pulley it would be a cinch to adjust. Yes, at ~63" it is a long belt, but those are easily found. There's a bit of a downside in that there will be slightly less engagement for the A/C belt on the crank pulley, but I don't think that would be a problem. In fact, unless the alternator is throwing copious current the belt running over the alternator's pulley might actually provide more power than stock.

What'cha think?

 

I can't see down there, but just make sure the grooves are the same diameter for both the A/C and the alternator on the crank pulley. Sometimes they are not.

 

That piece of rope is going to look cheesy.

 

Gary, if you do extend the belt run to the alt, consider converting that idler to a flat pulley running on the back of the belt, this will give you a greater angle of wrap on the alt pulley for better power transfer.

A single belt with greater angle of wrap will transfer more power than twin belts with minimal wrap. And lower the front bearing load on the alt compared to twin belts.

There are also new belts that are wrapped or covered with a textile of some description to increase power transfer, my big Toro zero turn mower runs one to power the deck and I can't believe how much punishment and load it happily runs with.

 

http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/2011/11/01/hmn_tips2.html

This write up gives some options on new 3 G's and where to get them. One the alt's puts out 235 amps. It puts out 60 when its not even turning.

This forum runs through some trial and error scenarios , but doesn't give a definitive answer to the question.
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150907

This site has a cool chart that shows how much the different alts put out at different rpm.
http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=75

Check out this site. They have all kinds of battery cables for cheap. This was where I got the 4/0 ground cables for Whitey:
http://greatlakesskipper.com/electri.../battery-cable

 

Dave - Man, why didn't I think of that!?!? I had looked at it briefly, but after your question I looked closely at Rusty's pulley, which should be the same as Dad's. Turns out that the A/C belt sits ~ 1/8" higher than the alternator belt. Not much, but enough to cause problems. So, assuming that the pulleys will interchange, are there pulleys that have the outer two grooves exactly the same size?

Brad - I'll look into a flat pulley. Hadn't thought of that. And, I'll consider the better belts as well. Thanks.

Bruno - I'll follow up on those links, but there is no alternator that gives 60 amps sitting still, so I'll probably discount that site's info. As for battery cables, I plan on going with RJM's wire and solder-on connectors as well as his shrink tubing and boots. That lets me make the cables the length needed to neaten things up.

 

I would go straight to the 3g. Any 3g as they have plenty of power, easily found in the JY or Oreilly's, and seem to be reliable.

I like the dual belt idea, but like Dave said, the two pulleys on the crank have to be the same diameter, or there will be slippage and rapid belt wear.

 

Don, that's what the classic Bronco thread I just linked to comes up with. Everybody uses 2 different length belts and one is tighter than the other and wears one out prematurely. I did a little research on the dual belt issue and couldn't come up with a way to do it right. So I just sort of quit pipe dreaming about it.