Well I took a fairly good running motor and removed the distributor and carb, plus all hoses. Now I have swapped the points for Electronic Ing from Pertronics. When I removed the hoses the rust was everywhere, I believe from the metal in the hoses. So I going to flush and replace with molded. I also found all the header bolts were 1/4 to 1/2 turn loose except 1 that was missing. Now it cleaning and sanding to prepare for some Ford Blue Engine enamel paint. After that replace all hose and clamps. I have heard to widend the gap on spark plugs to .044. I would replace but they are NGK and appear to be new. I also swapped the stock coil for a Flame thrower. One last thing my friend came over and saw that I had the carb upside down on the bench for inspection. He claims that I ruined it by doing this. Is this for real?

 

If turning you carburetor over to inspect it ruined it, then thousands have been ruined but just didn't know it.....

Make sure you bypass or replace the resistor wire from the ignition switch going to the coil or you will have all kinds of firing problems. If you check the voltage at the coil with the switch on, without the engine running it will read 12 +- volts, but when you start the engine and put a draw on the wire it drops to 6/7 volts. The Pertronix ignition must have 12 full volts to work. I know this from several months beating my head against the wall trying to get my truck to run right.

 

Not necessarily "ruined it" but turning the carb over sometimes results in a jammed float and/or bound up needle. Sometimes not.....A telltale sign will be fuel spitting out of the overflow tube.

 

Sounds like a decent undertaking lowcountry. If you get a chance throw up a couple pictures of your hard work. Good luck wrenching.

 

I'm confused on which wire you are saying needs to be changed. Where is it on the firewall or near the relay that is on the passenger side of the engine?

 

I deleted my post, I don't want to give non-perfect info

 

Resistive wire is used to lower voltage to stock coil, not points. Condenser protects points from arcing. The resistive wire is pink, behind the dash, changing colors and bridged to wire going to "I" term of starter solenoid relay. In "start" position, battery voltage is sent to "S" term on solenoid, returning on the "I" wire applying full battery voltage to coil for starting only.

 

Well after a few days of knuckle busting and painting, I have installed the Pertronics and the flame thrower coil. Replaced all hoses,fluids and clamps. New distrib cap rotor and wires. Widened the gap on the spark plugs no need to replace because they appeared to be new. The hardest part of the job was grinding the rivets off the brackets to replace the radius arm bushings. After I replaced those worn out bushings should I have the front end realign? The wires under the dash must have been changed before I got it because since I replaced the points with the Pertronics module and new coil it starts with a flick of the key. Sounds and runs strong. Absolutely no smoke white or blue or anything. I got a chance to use a inspection camera(Fiberoptic)when I pulled the plugs and the pistons and cylinder walls were pristine. No pics because I can't figure out how to post them.

 

What brackets did you have to grind the rivets off to change your radius arm bushings? If those were the rear brackets, I hope you replaced the rivets with grade 8 bolts, or that is an accident waiting to happen. All you have to do is unbolt the spring retainer at the top of the spring bucket, and then undo the nut at the rear of arm and push the arm forward to clear the bracket. I helped my brother change his in his Bronco which is almost the same as a 2wd only much heavier.

 

Yes I did use grade 8 with locking nuts. It appeared to be the easier softer way but those rivets were tough to get off. Did you need arealignment after that job?

 

Just replacing the R bushing should not really need any alignment issues.
But never hurts to have it checked any way. Finding a shop to do the alignment on these ford classic trucks can be a problem.

Because the shop has to bend the outer part of the axle. They use to chain down the outer axle and use a 20 ton jack to push up or down in another place for correcting the alignment.
If your going to do the king pins also then I'd wait until your done messing with the front end before taking it into a shop to check the alignment..
orich

 

Now is the time to find a good paint & body shop. I have to either rerepair the fenders due to improper bondo work because of rust or replace with new. Is there any companys that are better quailty for replacement fenders. Any brands to look for or stay away from. Rock Auto has them for less than 200 each. I do not want spend a good bit of $ for a paint job and find that the part is cr-p. Then there is the color. I want to go boxwood green or the same that it was in day one, white. My wife says blue.

 

Were can I get a replacement hood for a 1970 F100?

 

Or a used one in god condition (no rust)?

 

You'd better paint it blue.