If you need the E-series Wiring diagrams I have them...... and could send them to you if you PM me you email....I did not see the video but I also found wierd wiring issues on my Van so I know anything is possible...

 

Yeah the key has a # of different positions until it stops just before you crank and the crank position just springs back when done cranking. With the key in its final resting position the lights remain on and everything looks as it should. When you begin to turn the key to the spring back crank position the lights drop just before it actually begin to crank. It doesn't seem normal

 

I don't think I'm able to pm people yet. I'd definitely appreciate those though, I'm sure they would be very helpful. Here is my email, thank you
ensue56@hotmail.com

 

Yeah that doesn't seem right at all. There shouldn't be a position between the "Run" position (all dash lights on) and the "Crank" Position (when the starter is cranking). If there is a position in between somewhere I wouldn't be surprised if it would turn the dash lights out since it is probably half way into the cranking position. At this point, I'm wondering if that switch being wonky is the cause of this whole issue. It certainly sounds like it could be an option.

If the key cylinder isn't engaging the switch correctly, then we don't know for sure that the PCM is getting power while you're cranking the engine over. I guess you could verify that easily enough by putting a test light on the wire for the fuel bowl heater (or testing some other PCM power input) and seeing if it stays lit while you crank the engine.

 

Yeah the ignition doesn't have a position or notch after the run position. The lights go out halfway through the spring back crank position. Basically if you go to turn the key to crank the engine the lights go out halfway to actually bottoming the key out to crank the engine if that makes sense. If you notice in the video I'm using a screw driver to plunge the ignition slider to activate the ignition switch. That should eliminate the key lock cylinder or ignition switch not working properly. If there is saftey switch, fuse, wire, or anything else around the column that could disconnect power I'd feel that would be it. All this happened after taking apart column to replace bearings. Welcome to my nightmare DIYmechanic lol. I can try your test light suggestions tomorrow and see if we can narrow it down more.