help! stranded in columbia mo. high temp and high oil pressure.
#1
help! stranded in columbia mo. high temp and high oil pressure.
Just noticed while at highway speeds my engine temp was higher than usual. I've never had my gauge read higher than the n in the word normal. Now it reads in the m, and down to the r with both heater cores blasting. My oil pressure reads on the l in the word normal, and this never used to read that high at hwy speeds. The water pump is only 2 years old. Don't know age of tstat. Help!
#2
Just noticed while at highway speeds my engine temp was higher than usual. I've never had my gauge read higher than the n in the word normal. Now it reads in the m, and down to the r with both heater cores blasting. My oil pressure reads on the l in the word normal, and this never used to read that high at hwy speeds. The water pump is only 2 years old. Don't know age of tstat. Help!
#4
#7
if the vehicle is not physically overheating you will be ok, but like stated before stock gauges are very bad at being innacurate best suggestion is to buy aftermarket gauges, i have a set of 3 gauges from advance they are all mechanical gauges but its a start and not all that expensive, only precaution i have for you is be very carefull with the oil pressure gauge plastic line
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#8
if the vehicle is not physically overheating you will be ok, but like stated before stock gauges are very bad at being innacurate best suggestion is to buy aftermarket gauges, i have a set of 3 gauges from advance they are all mechanical gauges but its a start and not all that expensive, only precaution i have for you is be very carefull with the oil pressure gauge plastic line
Y
#10
Hi,
I'd take a look at this:
Diagnose Engine Overheating – Auto Repair Help
If turning the heater on makes a noticeable difference, the radiator becomes a likely source of the problem.
Any signs of head gasket problems? Oil in coolant, coolant in oil, fully pressurized radiator hoses upon start up (engine cold).
Better gauges might be a good long term thing. Right now, I'd get a non-contact IR thermometer. You can use it to check the radiator for blockage, and when you stop and pop the hood, you will accurately know how hot the motor is.
Roy
I'd take a look at this:
Diagnose Engine Overheating – Auto Repair Help
If turning the heater on makes a noticeable difference, the radiator becomes a likely source of the problem.
Any signs of head gasket problems? Oil in coolant, coolant in oil, fully pressurized radiator hoses upon start up (engine cold).
Better gauges might be a good long term thing. Right now, I'd get a non-contact IR thermometer. You can use it to check the radiator for blockage, and when you stop and pop the hood, you will accurately know how hot the motor is.
Roy
#11
The oil pressure gauge is on a pressure switch sender. Once it reaches about 7psi. the switch closes, and the gauge reads somewhere in the normal range. If the gauge is reading higher than normal, that would indicate an electrical issue, likely affecting the temp gauge as well. I doubt that you actually have an overheating and high oil pressure problem...
#12
Well, I guess the heater fan (when heater is turned on) might be drawing current and messing with the gauges.
Try pulling the fuse for the heater fan, running the van until it gets a bit hot, and then turning on the heat (flowing coolant to the heater core, but the fan won't work), and seeing if the temp still drops with the coolant flowing to the heater core.
Try pulling the fuse for the heater fan, running the van until it gets a bit hot, and then turning on the heat (flowing coolant to the heater core, but the fan won't work), and seeing if the temp still drops with the coolant flowing to the heater core.
#13
Just to follow up, I wanted to post what I did.
After a while, the temp gauge was reading around the M in normal. Then it shot down to cold. My guess was the t-stat was now stuck open, after it was nearly locked closed.
So, I found a motorcraft t-stat at a KC dealer, and installed it myself. Pretty easy and I was able to clean up and paint the housing neck and some brackets in the process. Now it runs at the "N" in normal.
Thanks for all your suggestions. I know the Volt Reg is good, cuz it's only a year old. And I replaced the blower motor and resistor only a year ago too. And my digital gauge showing voltage was reading around 13.2-13.5V while at highway speeds.
After a while, the temp gauge was reading around the M in normal. Then it shot down to cold. My guess was the t-stat was now stuck open, after it was nearly locked closed.
So, I found a motorcraft t-stat at a KC dealer, and installed it myself. Pretty easy and I was able to clean up and paint the housing neck and some brackets in the process. Now it runs at the "N" in normal.
Thanks for all your suggestions. I know the Volt Reg is good, cuz it's only a year old. And I replaced the blower motor and resistor only a year ago too. And my digital gauge showing voltage was reading around 13.2-13.5V while at highway speeds.
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