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Clutch pedal rod bushings and linkage woes

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Old 11-16-2013, 04:30 PM
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Clutch pedal rod bushings and linkage woes

I completed my Luk SMF conversion with Luk flywheel just a week or two ago. Had to replace my slave cylinder and re-bleed the system. Awesome.

But I've still got pedal problems. I replaced the bushing in the master cylinder pushrod and it tore it up in just a few days.

Then I noticed that when I push on the clutch pedal, the whole damn rod assembly shifts in it's holes.

I've got it all torn out and torn apart. Sure enough, broken bushings. They sure as hell look better than the replacement bushings I bought from O'reilly though... those look thin.

Can someone link me to a Ford bushing kit? Are they thicker?

I also want to do the heim link pushrod fix. $40 plus shipping for the ebay kit seems steep, but I've replaced every other part in this system, and I need a damn clutch!
 
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Old 11-16-2013, 04:44 PM
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I was just about to suggest the heim kit off of ebay... If you have the resources in your area you could probably do it a little cheaper, but there you go. A little creativity and a small bearing would achieve the same thing. Thats what im going to do to mine when i get my Valair. Next issue to tackle is the bushings in the pedal assembly... was replaced once already and about needs it again.
 
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Old 11-16-2013, 05:05 PM
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I made a 7/16 him joint pushrOd, but the clutch start switch won't work with it. Not a deal breaker unless you want the cruise cutout to work. I searched eBay but didn't see the kit you were talking about. Link?
 
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Old 11-16-2013, 06:43 PM
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I found it once accidentally, but having no luck finding it now. My clutch switch has long been detoured anyway.
 
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Old 11-16-2013, 07:16 PM
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Update:



*sigh*

Here's the ebay kit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-Clutch-Rod-End-PERMANENT-Repair-powerstroke-too-/251365191777?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a86887061
 
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Old 11-16-2013, 07:30 PM
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yarp... thats what happened to mine... thing is a royal BIOTCH to change out. Seriously considering tapping it for zerks. The little plastic bushings get dry and wear out in no time. Ironically the ones in my 79 look brand new. Granted theyre steel on steel instead of steel on pop metal.
 
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Old 11-17-2013, 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by bashby
I made a 7/16 him joint pushrOd, but the clutch start switch won't work with it. Not a deal breaker unless you want the cruise cutout to work. I searched eBay but didn't see the kit you were talking about. Link?
What is the cruise cutout thing?
I have a truck with cruise and I was looking at taking my clutch switch off, will that mess with my stuff?
How exactly would I remove it? I've looked at it, but I see two switches, one connects to the actual clutch(white system) and a black one that pushes in when it gets released. I'm pretty sure the white one is the clutch switch to turn on
 
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:09 AM
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On my 92, there is a six wire connector on the switch that wraps the push rod. 91 and earlier may be different. My cruise has not worked since I had the truck so I'm not sure how unhooking the clutch switch effected it. I jumped the two red and blue wires for the start circuit so it will crank
 
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Old 11-17-2013, 11:43 AM
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jumping the red/blue wires will make you truck crank, but will disable you cruise, you can unhook it a just put in a push start button
 
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Old 11-17-2013, 12:06 PM
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Sorry if this post amounts to hijacking the OP's questions... not sure on the posting etiquette, but I have the same/related problem.

I just bought a replacement bushing for the clutch rod linkage - $16 (cdn, from dealer) for this shi**y little piece of plastic that's going to be gone again really quickly due to the oblong wear in the clutch cylinder push rod eye and the wear on the pin that goes through it. I had thought of welding up/machining the pin round again, but I think I'm reading on various posts that to get the push rod out so that I could weld it up and machine the hole round, I'd need to pull the whole master cylinder out (?). The $40 + taxes + $30 shipping for the ebay kit is starting to look better and better if it means 1/can fix the thing with CMC still in the truck and 2/ permanent fix.

Any other thoughts on this? This thing seems like it's just going to go from bad to worse if I 'mickeymouse' it.
 
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Old 11-17-2013, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Coccyx
Sorry if this post amounts to hijacking the OP's questions... not sure on the posting etiquette, but I have the same/related problem.

I just bought a replacement bushing for the clutch rod linkage - $16 (cdn, from dealer) for this shi**y little piece of plastic that's going to be gone again really quickly due to the oblong wear in the clutch cylinder push rod eye and the wear on the pin that goes through it. I had thought of welding up/machining the pin round again, but I think I'm reading on various posts that to get the push rod out so that I could weld it up and machine the hole round, I'd need to pull the whole master cylinder out (?). The $40 + taxes + $30 shipping for the ebay kit is starting to look better and better if it means 1/can fix the thing with CMC still in the truck and 2/ permanent fix.

Any other thoughts on this? This thing seems like it's just going to go from bad to worse if I 'mickeymouse' it.
The shipping and taxes must be a Canadian thing. Down here we pay $40 and shipping is included, no taxes unless you're in the same state. At the very minimum, I could order two kits and send you one to save a little bit of money. I live in Washington state.

Or you could make the same thing yourself. Some guys order the heim joints from McMaster-Carr. I don't know where to buy them locally.

Here's a walkthrough for doing it without the kit:

Finally got tired of pushing the clutch pedal thru the floorboard to shift and got off my keister and got the mod done
 
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by lemonshindig
The shipping and taxes must be a Canadian thing. Down here we pay $40 and shipping is included, no taxes unless you're in the same state. At the very minimum, I could order two kits and send you one to save a little bit of money. I live in Washington state.

Or you could make the same thing yourself. Some guys order the heim joints from McMaster-Carr. I don't know where to buy them locally.

Here's a walkthrough for doing it without the kit:

Finally got tired of pushing the clutch pedal thru the floorboard to shift and got off my keister and got the mod done
Thanks for the link to the home-made mod. I'm going to look into finding a 3/8 heim joint, something like the one at this page: Econ 3 8 x 3 8 24 Female RH Rod Ends Heim Joints Heims | eBay

Your idea of sending me one of the kits sounds good, too. It's kind of you to mention it. If you're serious, figure out your price from the EBay thing and tell me what you would charge to mail it up here. I'm in central British Columbia.
 
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Old 11-17-2013, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Red454sedgwick
jumping the red/blue wires will make you truck crank, but will disable you cruise, you can unhook it a just put in a push start button
Ill have to take a look at it, but my grandpa disabled the clutch switch so that it may be started without disengaging the clutch, and my cruise still works fine.
 
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Old 11-18-2013, 04:10 PM
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the green wires on the switch are for the cruise control -- leave those alone ..... leave the switch in place -- just jumper the red w/blue wires together --- cruise still works for me - got the heim joint fix from e-bay
 
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Old 11-18-2013, 09:54 PM
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That's what I did i took the switch clear out, because it shorted out, and thats why the cruise didn't work for me
 


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