Hi all, I need some help figuring this out please! I got a 2001 Escape XLT (V6) a couple of months ago. Its in great condition, only 82k miles on it too. It had the notorious door handle issues which I have had fixed. It also had the wet weather stuttering problem, which I had fixed by having all 6 spark plugs replaced (Motorcraft OEM plugs), the back 3 coils replaced, upper intake gaskets replaced, Valve cover gasket replaced, PCV valve replaced (motorcraft). It runs great when its warm, the problem I am having is when its cold outside and the engine is cold, it starts up fine but idles like crap and if its really cold outside, it starts and dies 3 or 4 times before it can even get to the crappy, stuttering idle. I have to intermittently feed it gas to keep the cold idle going long enough (3 or 4 mins) before I can drive it. Once the engine is warm it drives like a champ. The only warm engine issue, is occasionally after driving it and putting it in park, the engine will rev up to 2000, 3000+ rpms, and just keep going up until I shut the engine off.

The codes read P0171 and P0174, which are lean on bank 1 and bank 2. It had also thrown a misfire on cyl 6 but once I cleared that it hasn't come back, just the lean codes are still present.
From what Ive been reading, this can be a number of issues, ranging from the IAC valve, EGR valve, MAF or the lower intake gaskets. I'm very much a rookie when it comes to car mechanics, but I think I can handle changing the IAC, EGR and MAF since they are all on top of the engine. However I don't know if I could handle the lower intake gaskets. Ironically, the gaskets are the cheapest part, but the most labor if I paid someone else to do it.

If I replace the EGR, do I also need to replace the EGR Modulator as well? Anyone have any suggestions and brand names that are best bang for the buck when it comes to these other parts I have mentioned?

Advice please?

 

I think I would clean the MAF sensor. It may report airflow that is incorrect to the computer, leading the computer to limit the amount of fuel it allows to flow.
I would also check the temperature sensors for air and coolant. Either or both could fail to tell the computer that the weather is cold or the engine is cold, and there would be no 'extra' fuel added to enrich the mixture and allow the engine to run smoothly when first started.
A second symptom of sensor problems it the lack or a cold idle bump. If there is no fast idle when the engine is first started that drops back after a few minutes running, then likely the computer is not commanding the IAC to faster idle, or the IAC is not responding. Your IAC may need cleaning or replacement. The IAC, Idle Air Control, manipulates a small valve which controls air flow into the engine at idle. It can bump up for A/C compressor running, power steering pump load when turning the wheels while parking, and if your idle speed drops, the IAC may not be compensating as designed.
You can use a propane tank and length of hose to feed fuel to a leaking intake gasket. When the fuel gets to the leak, it will get sucked in and make the mix richer and create more power and rpm. You can also use a vacuum gauge to check your manifold for leaks.
tom

 

Thanks for the info! I changed the fuel filter, air filter, cabin air filter and reset the PCM on saturday. It seemed better at first but alas, it started doing the same thing again.

Oddly, there was no cabin air filter installed when I opened the cover. Why would that be? When I changed the air filter, I peeked at the MAF, it looked pretty clean. I can still spray it off though. Do I have to use MAF cleaner or can I use plain ol electrical cleaner?

Tomorrow I plan on taking off and cleaning the IAC, spraying it out with carb cleaner. How long should I let it dry for before putting it back on?

How would I check the temperature sensors for air and coolant?

 

I think the cabin air filter was optional, and not installed from the factory in many cases.

The cleaner you use on the MAF tiny tiny tiny wires should be safe for the catalytic converter, and safe for 'plastic coating' used on the internal surface of some intake manifolds. I took a small screwdriver and broke out the 'lock' in the center of the torqx headed bolts assembling the MAF. Then I could see the actual wires. At least one was coated with 'schmutz' {generic term for I dunno what it was.} which I removed with alcohol and a q-tip. Re-assembled and put back in place. CEL was no longer lit up.
If you use a spray, generally they don't need any time to dry out. They'll be dry before you get done putting them back in place.
The temp sensors have a range of resistance values for a given ambient temperature listed in a chart in the service manuals. Measure the resistance, and either compare to another vehicle that works or look up the expected acceptable values. I think in most cases they don't go off value, but go completely bad. Don't bet your paycheck on that.
tom

 

Thanks tom, I will try that on the MAF. As for measuring the range of resistance values for a given ambient temperature for air and coolant, how do I do that? I apologize I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to car mechanics.

Im also wondering about the EGR. I dont think that can just be cleaned so I was looking into getting a new one. Looking on rock auto's web site, I see STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # EGV994T and STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # EGV994 w/intermotor for a few dollars more. Do I need to get one with an intermotor?

As far as spraying the motor to sense vacuum leaks, is it safe to use carb cleaner or am I about to burn off my eye brows if I try it?

 

you can use that

 

Massive vacuum leak is your concern from the pcv elbow, have you looked at that.

 

Lower intake gasket leaks that are only present when the engine is cold are very common on the 3.0 4v with higher mileage. Not replacing that when the upper intake was off was a mistake, as it only takes another 10 minutes or so to do at that point. I see one or two of these a month that are misdiagnosed by small shops, auto zone, etc. as bad MAF sensors, spark plugs, coils, or injectors (just did one earlier this week.) Usually just inspecting for vacuum leaks, checking live data, and most importantly, talking with the customer, leads to the diagnosis of leaking lower intake gaskets.

The EGR is not causing your problem as you would have a very rough idle when the engine was warm.

Your warm engine racing concern is unrelated, possibly a sticking air bypass valve.

Double check for obvious vacuum leaks.

Replace the lower intake gaskets, disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes to clear the PCM tables, and see what happens.

 

engine racing concern is from a massive vac leak trust me, lower intake gaskets may leak a bit and cause high fuel trims but won't cause a racing or rough idle concern as their size leak can be compensated for and the idle smooths out. Pull the iac elec connector whil its idling does it die?

 

Yes, it does die if I pull the connector from the IAC. I cleaned the IAC the other night, it didnt really help anything. Im going to clean the MAF tomorrow evening. I would have done it the other night but I didnt have a torx set.

I also noticed some wires that had frayed insulation, exposing some of the wires. they are located in the back left of the engine compartment, kind of right in front of where the passenger would sit. Not sure if that could cause problems? I would post a pic here but not sure how to do that.

 

I accidentally hit the POST button but wanted to ask if there are any online videos showing where I need to spray the carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks? I looked online but couldnt find anything that pertained to a 2001 Escape 3.0.

Also, I had the PCV valve replaced when I had the upper intake gaskets replaced. But since it is a likely spot for a vacuum leak, can one of you guys tell me where its located so I can check the hose coming off it for leaks?

 

had a escape in here by chance so I took a quick video on common leak spots and how to test. I will post when I get home.

 

Thanks, much appreciated!

 

Ok here it is I hope this helps I know I cut off at the end. What I am saying is IF there is a leak the engine will rev. The pcv gos from the engine valley up and around to back of intake large hose. Hope it helps.

 

Leaking lower intake gaskets will most definitely cause a rough cold idle that clears as the engine warms up. Did one today and did one last week. The plastic lower intakes have a very high rate of expansion and the lower intake runs at a relatively high temperature due to contact with the cylinder heads. As the gaskets age and lose pliability they leak. On a cold start, the gaskets and intake are contracted and allow an unmetered leak. As heat is added, the gaskets and intake expand and eventually reduce or eliminate the leak. It only takes thousandths of an inch for this to happen.

Since cold start fuel strategy is based off long-term fuel trims, which are warm-engine corrections, any leak that is present only during cold engine operation will not be compensated for and the engine will run lean to the point of running rough, misfiring, and even repeated starting and stalling unless throttle is applied.

So I'll say it again. Replacing the upper intake gaskets without replacing the lowers was a bonehead move by an inexperienced tech.