I need to order a timing chain set asap and I need to know if I have the roller cam or tappet one. Seems like I keep reading conflicting reports, so I'm asking you pros here at ford-trucks.

As far as I know, the truck is completely stock in the internals. I'm not changing cams; just the chain cause it's pretty sloppy.

Thanks!

 

Roller cam. Cloyes has a good reputation for timing chain

 

Your motor has a roller cam not that it matters.. the type of cam has no effect on the timing set.

 

Thanks, guys. The people at Napa were asking me as if it mattered. The one guy said that "unless I had changed cams, then the OEM cam is the tappet/non-roller type". But if it doesn't matter either way, then I'm good to go with whatever I get.

Thanks, once again.

 

Remember the jingle, "Napa know-how.." is more like "Napa NO now.."

 

Only thing they should ask knowing your year/make/model and motor is if you want "silent" or "double roller" gear/chain set.

Sounds like you got some kid behind the counter attempting to impress.

 

Actually, it wasn't a kid. LOL!

Another question: I assume the double roller chain has two rows of chain, right? mine is one big one maybe 1 inch in diameter. I don't know what the "silent" designation is all about.

I don't remember them asking me about the silent vs double. I hope I'm getting the correct one...

 

Odd it wasn't a kid but some older guys are clueless too, work where ever they can get work.

Yea the silent chain is a single and its quite because of the way its links fit to the gears, lays in and out under load creating no noise.

You want the double roller, its a stronger chain because it has more side plates taking the load, takes more time/miles on it to stretch it and both gears are metal, no plastic to chip away.
Not built to run silent no but its not like you can hear it run either....well maybe you can if you have super man's hearing?

 

Okay, that's good to know. Thanks for explaining that. I will find out what came in first thing in the morning.

On another note: I am replacing the timing cover. is there any way I can get away with not replacing the oil pan gasket and not have leaks?

 

I just realized that the old oil pan gasket material (where the pan dips down in the front) broke off. So, I don't have any gasket material for that semi-circle area. So, will rtv work to fill that gap, or am I dreaming? I'm lazy, I know. This project already gone on too long.

 

Timing gasket set/kit will include all that and will include small sections of the pan gasket to replace what you cut off flush with the block. Kit will also include new main seal cover, the kit includes everything you need ask for one rather than order every gasket separately.

Don't use those small pieces of pan gasket the kit includes, just use rtv but be sure everything is clean first.

And first thing you should do once you pull the timing cover off if you haven't, pack a clean rag/towel down in front of pan block it off to prevent anything from falling in. Tools bolts gasket scrapings as you clean the mating surfaces etc, you don't want anything down in there cause you to have to drop the pan get it out.

 

I have the timing cover off, and I already cleaned the block surface. I did block the pan, but I still got some small pieces of gunk/gasket material in the pan. I am thinking about flushing it with diesel fuel to get it out.

I was told by the auto parts store that the Dorman timing cover would include the timing cover gasket & crankshaft seal, but they didn't say anything about that little piece of gasket to replace the semi-circle piece that I took out. But you're saying to not use that anyway and simply use rtv? May I ask what the benefit is to doing that?

Thanks.

 

Use the rubber front pan seal but don't use those little pieces provided to make up for what gets cut off of the pan gasket.

And yea I did that too, couple little pieces of gasket you inevitably loose down in the pan. Those lost while scraping those areas need done with the rag out of the way, I sucked those back up with a shop and its crevice tool. Then I drained the oil pouring clean fuel down the from the front of the open pan to flush it clean.

 

Hey, great idea about the shop vac. I will do that before the diesel flush. And thanks for the tip on the pan gasket.