Well to start with I am going to installing E99 IH bellowed up pipes that I got my hands on and I am rethinking what compressor wheel to run since the turbo will be out.

I have been running a E99 turbo with a 1.0 turbine housing, wastegated with Turbo Master actuator, stock wicked wheel and rebuilt about 7500 miles ago. Also I run stock tunes. Now when I ran with the stock E99 turbo .84a/r housing & W.W. it would spool up out of the hole very nicely (Great bottom end)but on the highway towing it spooled up and down to much for me ( bad top end). So to get it to run down the highway better I went to the 1.0 housing to lower drive pressure. With the 1.0 housing it pulls very nicely going down the highway but now I have no bottom end. I really have to get the rpm's up to build any boost due to lower drive pressure.

So I am thinking of running a standard late99-03 GTP38 compressor wheel/ 9 blade. Honestly at this point in time if I can help it I would like to stay away from the latest , greatest billet wheels out there. Since first of all they are new and they have yet to prove the test of time. You can do all the R&D, beta testing, dyno testing and live data you want but the best test in my book is "The Test of Time" The test of time is why I love the old 7.3 PSD !! But I am not ruling out the latest & greatest billet wheels.

So I am looking to get some input from guys that are running 1.0 turbine housing and what compressor wheels you run. And have any of you used the standard wheel 9 blade with the 1.0 housing and results.
Thanks

 

Back when I ran a stock turbo/injectors, I had the 1.0 turbine housing, along with a stock late model compressor wheel and ATS compressor housing. This proved to be a great combination. There didn't seem to be any trade-off when it came to power.

 

I don't see any problem with mine ED. I do have the IH up pipes. If you don't tow, or not heavy go back to the .84 housing. Your up pipes mitt make the difference. I do have a tuner F5 but I still drive it in stock tune when its cold out till warmed up. The difference isn't much if any to me. Lets us know what you do. How much boost do you pull?

 

Roland did you ever run the 1.0 housing with the Late99 wheel with the stock compressor housing at all? The reason I ask is since I am running the 4 bolt/ E99 compressor housing no one make a ported one. So I am stuck with a stock compressor housing. And please correct me if I am wrong but with the Late99-03 turbo you can combat surging by either going to the WW or run a Late99 wheel and a ported housing. That is if I recall correctly.
So is it common for a guy that is running a Late99-03 turbo to run a 1.0 housing with the stock wheel? Because I would think with lower drive pressure of the 1.0 housing that you would need to make some of that up by increasing compressor blade area. But does that mean you are back to dealing with surge and that is why you need the ported compressor housing?

I was hoping some guys that run a 1.0 housing would weigh in on this but I guess not or there is anyone running stock turbo's with 1.0 turbine housings.

Chet are you running a 1.0 housing on yours? If so I didn't know that if so what wheel are you running? Now I do tow and sometimes heavy but most of the time it's just my boat 8500lbs I went with the 1.0 housing because I prefer to have lower drive pressure because not only does it help keep egt's in check but it is a little less stress on turbo bearings and turbine shaft too. I'm not looking to make big boost. And honestly when I am towing my boat down the highway I am very please with the results with the 1.0 turbine housing.

Now about a 1 1/2yrs ago I built this turbo and did some home make bellowed up pipes and at the time I didn't have a boost gauge. At that time it ran very strong just a little lag out of the hole off idle to about 1600rpm. I had no exhaust leaks for about a year and the stupid FelPro gaskets started to leak and at that time Roland hooked me up with a boost gauge and that is when I was sure I had a leakie up pipes.
Thanks again Roland !! So to solve my boost leak issues I found a set of IH up pipes, DieselSite E99 plenum support inserts and I am going to finish replacing the rest of my boots with RiffRaff boots. All that is left is getting rid of the lag from idle to 1600rpms without creating surge at the top end..

 

Running the WW. I had a good stock wheel but striped the nut taking it off. I don't know what I was thinking when I did that but its done. I did up date mine to all the late stuff.

 

Sorry, Ed. I can't comment on that configuration. I already had the ported compressor housing of the turbo before I swapped to the 1.0 turbine housing.
If you need a stock late model compressor wheel, let me know. I have one I picked up from at our last South Texas Tech Day. Thanks, Woody!

 

Roland, what tunes were you running back when you had the old turbo? I hope to put the 1.0 exh housing on my stock turbo at some point, but assumed I'd need to add the ported compressor billet wheel to maximize boost. It's interesting to me that you had good performance with stock sticks, yet a larger exh housing. I would have expected some lag, unless the tunes make this up.

 

I was running the DP Tuner 80 Econo & 60 Tow and had the Turbo Master WG Controller; set at 28 psi max. I also used to run a modded IDM (140v), which increased throttle response and fueling slightly.

 

Roland I think you just hit on something that might help solve my issue. I have been looking a reason to I needed a Swamps IDM. Also you said you had your T.M. set at 28psi were you running a boost reg to the map sensor? The reason I ask is when I set up my T.M. I didn't have a boost gauge and I backed it off 1/2 or 1 turn when it would give a code and check engine light. So is it 22psi that it set off a light and defuels?

I have spent alot time of reading old treads about guys running 1.0 turbine housing and I did not find anyone who ran a 1.0 housing/ stock wheel and stock compressor housing. All were like yourself that had a ported compressor housings and using the stock wheel. So there is NO data out there on the combo of stock compressor housing, 1.0 turbine and stock 99-03 compressor wheel. So with that being said I think I am going to take the stock 99-03 wheel off the table.
But thanks for the offer of the wheel brother!! You too Woody !!

Now I know alot guys are thinking why not just get tunes to cure the problem. Well I want Blackie running the best it can without having issues before getting tunes. But once I get all issue I can resolved then I'll go to tuning to resolve the rest. And honestly when it comes to tunes I really don't want anyones shift strategy I like my stock strategy. Since I changed it with hard parts when I built my trans. I really don't need it done in tuning.

I sure would like to try RiffRaff's 6/6 billet but I really would hate to throw $200 at a E99 turbo. It ain't happening!! Besides if I had $200 to spend I think I would put toward a set of new steer tires. Which I need badly!!

I am just going to stick with the 1.0 turbine housing,T.M. and WW. Because at some point time I would like to go to a T4 set up since then you have many differnt turbos to choice from. Then I'll throw some money down.

I look forward to talking to Sunday afternoon!

 

Sorry Chet that is where I was lost I forgot you switched over to the 99-03 set up. Got it now. And I am glad it is working out well for you.

Jeff first of all I am going to I like your SeaRay what model is it? I too am a SeaRay guy. I'm going to guess a '89 SRV240 Weekender.

Now are you running a stock 99-03 wheel with the ported compressor housing? If so from the data I have seen out there going to the 6/6 for the ported housing would be the next step in getting more boost. But if you are just after more boast you could go to the T.M. w.g. actuator to gain alittle. But from what you tow I would say a 1.0 turbine housing and a 6/6 wheel for ported compressor housing with a T.M. would be a sweet combo.

 

Ed - I had a '79 SRV240 before this one. Great boat, but larger than we needed and less maneuverable for the tubing/sking the family wanted to do. This is a smaller '84 21ft Searay. Nearly the same cuddy, and same 260hp Merc/AlphaI drive, but this one gets up and goes. I like the pre-Brunswick Searays - seem to be built tougher.

I'm still using the stock wheel and ATS housing. I agree with you the next step will likely be the new wheel and 1.0 turbine housing. Maybe I could even do that before larger sticks and still get good performance. I'm thinking of skippng the T.M. and just keeping the rod tight/short to keep boost high (opening at 30psi or so). I have the red line plugged currently, and can occasionally trigger the CEL at 27psi with 60e. I'm holding off on 80e until I upgrade the HPOP. It's currently falling flat to some extent with all my tunes.

Funny you say you are hijacking your own thread! I often feel like I'm hijacking when weighing in on someones thread with my own situation. But I guess we all learn from each other, don't we?

 

Wow 21' looks bigger then that and I am sure at that size and weight it gets up and goes! Also I agree the old SeaRay were built tough actually over kill. Do you know what year it was that Brunswick took over SeaRay. Now since we are off subject here I have always wanted to complaint to the powers to be (Whom ever they) at FTE that there is a forum for everything EXCEPT "Boating" Come on now the camper guys have taken over the towing and I have been told I am off subject in "Towing" for talking about boats. I bought my F350 DRW to tow and launch my boat. Sorry for the and

Now back to the subject at hand sounds like you have no issues that you would need the T.M. So the only other thing I can say is the T.M. looks way cooler and you can get rid of all the vacuum lines. I in your case turbo modds and a T500 would be good choices before doing injectors. Besides you would end up doing these things sooner or later anyways. Turbo modds & HPOP is still less money than injectors and should give you a good bang for the buck. But that is just my 2 cents. Because some guy will come along and say just get new injectors that will fix everything. Personally I believe do all support modds first.

Now as far as the T.M. looking cool here is a photo of my turbo. I think it is a nice clean look.
OK it is a BS reason... but I want to post pic

 

Damn that's a clean look! I like how the spider shined up as well, even better without the wastegate lines. I'd love to pull my lines - I need to read up on the mod that prevents a code being generated. Agree with supporting mods first. Sounds like a good plan.

No boating tolerance here in the other FTE forums? Well that's gotta change. I have not visited them yet, guess I better snoop around and start backing you up! I think Brunswick bought Searay in '86, but not sure what year their influence started lightening up the Searay builds.

 

Thanks Jeff I thought a photo would really show how it cleans up the look the engine. Now when I did the T.M and Roland told me about the 470 ohm modd to keep from pulling a code and it works.

Maybe I should just get off my butt and request that they open a "Towing & Boating" forum since towing a boat is a different than towing a camper. Brakes are different, bow stays, winchs along with issues launching a boat which is way different than dragging a camper around. I think SeaRay went lighter to be able to go faster and keep up with the Jone's. Since I have already hijacked myself here is a photo of my 1982 SRV260sxl on Lake Michigan

 

She's a beauty. That's a nice lake as well, big one - I think I'd be intimidated. I do like how the bigger boats smooth out the chop, much better ride.

I wonder if a higher voltage IDM will help. The early 99 had a 110V IDM didn't they? So 140V would be a good jump to wake up the injectors.

I'm tempted to say defuel on a stock truck happens at 22psi, and CEL doesn't kick until 27psi, but not positive on this.