Thanks to redman84 I have a needed IPR. Having one in hand to explore tool options is a huge bonus.s Many thanks!

The IPR needs a 1-1/8" socket to remove and install. There are videos of welding a handle on a deep socket, but I don't have a welder.

After removing the sheet metal washer, the top hat looking spacer and then the barrel shaped electromagnet (that the wire connector connects to) the remaining exposed shaft slides thru a 1/2" drive socket opening. Short socket or deep, they both can engage the sensor to remove it from the HPOP, but getting torque to the socket is the challenge.

Others weld a piece of flat bar to the end of a deep socket to apply the torque, but I don't have a welder.

I believe I could take a 1-1/8" socket and grind flats into the 1/2" drive end of it. The biggest combination wrench I have is 1-1/4". Do the measurements yourself, but even a larger wrench size could be ground into the outside surface of the 1/2" drive end of the 1-1/8" socket I have.

When I get some spare time I will buy me a deep socket and hand file some wrench flats on it. Actually I'll use my angle grinder, but a bench grinder would work too. They don't have to be perfect, an o-ring sealed fitting shouldn't require much torque.

I'll post an update when I make some progress. If someone wants to run with this idea that would be great! I suspect there is a spark plug style 1/2" drive socket that has wrench flats already built in...I'll keep looking.

 

My deep craftsman socket fits fine. If you need to buy a socket, buy one that's long enough!

 

Shower valve tool works too

 

This socket works too. It is made deeper than a regular deep well.Grey Pneumatic 2036XD 1/2" Drive x 1-1/8" Extra-Deep | ToolBarn.com

 

Craftsman here, no issues.

 

OP - what about just a set of channel locks on the outside of the socket you have in place. not sure there's enough room to get them in there, but it couldn't be much worse than a 1-1/4" open end wrench. squeeze as tight as you can and turn slowly?

 

I'm sure that would work. The shower valve tool should too. These can't be that tight. Great suggestions!! Which is why I started this thread, to show that in spite of what YouTube would have you believe, removing an IPR is not that hard.

 

I used a boxed end wrench. I had to grind down the wall on the box end to make it thiner

 

You could save yourself the effort and borrow one. Many people have built their version of the tool and most would be happy to let you borrow it for just shipping costs. There are several people from TX in this forum so shipping would be cheap and speedy. I'd be willing to bet Travis one you could use.

I built my wrench with a 4" arm welded to the socket and couldn't get quite enough leverage to break it free. So I put a short cheater-bar over the end of the arm to get it. I was worried that I might break it before it came loose. I'm just saying that its tighter than what you might expect, and thats probably due to how long its been in there.

 

There are lots of sockets long enough without needing to weld on a piece of metal.

I forgot who had the best one. The craftsman one was 30 or 40 dollars at the time i got one. I bought something else.

 

Any socket & a pair of vice grips , or a wrench ....It took me 10 minutes to change mine ...