Broken brake rotor on 89 F-350 2WD
#1
Broken brake rotor on 89 F-350 2WD
Ok guys, now keep in mind this is my yard truck and it will be junked in the spring (not looking to break the bank on replacement parts). Noticed the caliper leaking last winter so I just pinched off the line and finished out the season. Getting around to prepping for the coming plow season I got the passenger side pulled apart, and was about to replace the caliper when I found only half a rotor. Wearing surface on one side, worn vanes on the other. How difficult is it to replace a rotor on one of these? Is it as easy as popping a dust cap on the outside, removing a spindle nut, and sliding the hub and rotor off? Unbolt the rotor from the spacer and bolt in the new one? Or do I have to deal with bearings and snap rings and the whole 9? Please tell me this is an easy fix.
#2
Ok guys, now keep in mind this is my yard truck and it will be junked in the spring (not looking to break the bank on replacement parts). Noticed the caliper leaking last winter so I just pinched off the line and finished out the season. Getting around to prepping for the coming plow season I got the passenger side pulled apart, and was about to replace the caliper when I found only half a rotor. Wearing surface on one side, worn vanes on the other. How difficult is it to replace a rotor on one of these? Is it as easy as popping a dust cap on the outside, removing a spindle nut, and sliding the hub and rotor off? Unbolt the rotor from the spacer and bolt in the new one? Or do I have to deal with bearings and snap rings and the whole 9? Please tell me this is an easy fix.
remove locking hub
remove caliper
remove spindle nutS and outer bearing
remove hub/rotor assem
drive out wheel studs
knock rotor off hub
put new rotor on
install wheel studs and drive them in
Install is reverse of removal
#4
Truck actually does pretty well for 2wd. It's got a flat bed with small side rails. With about 500-1000lbs or dirt in it it pushes just about anything. But back on topic if we can. Yes it's 2wd so obviously I don't have to deal with the locking hubs. It's just so odd to me to see rotors that don't just slide off with the calipers off. I should probably just dig in but I really don't want to get into messing with bearings if there's the possibility of them falling out or being damaged by being exposed. (I have no experience with them at all.
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There is very little too a front 2wd spindle/hub so you really don't need one, very simple/basic setup.
Just do it, if you take your time and working with basic hand tools it might take you an hour total to change it.
Couple things you'll wanna know going in (if you don't know them already).
Before putting hub on spindle apply light coat of grease on spindle where the seal rides, clean the area/spindle first.
Be sure and repack the bearings with fresh grease until that new grease appears from between all rollers.
The wheel bearings properly packed need no more grease, in other words don't fill the hub between inner and outer bearings with grease.
Bearing preload, tighten wheelbearing nut to 25 ft-lbs then rotate the hub in forward direction several times to seat bearings, re check/set preload to 25 ft-lbs again if seating changed value, next back off nut 1/8th turn, then finally with your fingers only (no wrench/tool) tighten nut until its snug and install cotter key.
Just do it, if you take your time and working with basic hand tools it might take you an hour total to change it.
Couple things you'll wanna know going in (if you don't know them already).
Before putting hub on spindle apply light coat of grease on spindle where the seal rides, clean the area/spindle first.
Be sure and repack the bearings with fresh grease until that new grease appears from between all rollers.
The wheel bearings properly packed need no more grease, in other words don't fill the hub between inner and outer bearings with grease.
Bearing preload, tighten wheelbearing nut to 25 ft-lbs then rotate the hub in forward direction several times to seat bearings, re check/set preload to 25 ft-lbs again if seating changed value, next back off nut 1/8th turn, then finally with your fingers only (no wrench/tool) tighten nut until its snug and install cotter key.
#13
There is very little too a front 2wd spindle/hub so you really don't need one, very simple/basic setup.
Just do it, if you take your time and working with basic hand tools it might take you an hour total to change it.
Couple things you'll wanna know going in (if you don't know them already).
Before putting hub on spindle apply light coat of grease on spindle where the seal rides, clean the area/spindle first.
Be sure and repack the bearings with fresh grease until that new grease appears from between all rollers.
The wheel bearings properly packed need no more grease, in other words don't fill the hub between inner and outer bearings with grease.
Bearing preload, tighten wheelbearing nut to 25 ft-lbs then rotate the hub in forward direction several times to seat bearings, re check/set preload to 25 ft-lbs again if seating changed value, next back off nut 1/8th turn, then finally with your fingers only (no wrench/tool) tighten nut until its snug and install cotter key.
Just do it, if you take your time and working with basic hand tools it might take you an hour total to change it.
Couple things you'll wanna know going in (if you don't know them already).
Before putting hub on spindle apply light coat of grease on spindle where the seal rides, clean the area/spindle first.
Be sure and repack the bearings with fresh grease until that new grease appears from between all rollers.
The wheel bearings properly packed need no more grease, in other words don't fill the hub between inner and outer bearings with grease.
Bearing preload, tighten wheelbearing nut to 25 ft-lbs then rotate the hub in forward direction several times to seat bearings, re check/set preload to 25 ft-lbs again if seating changed value, next back off nut 1/8th turn, then finally with your fingers only (no wrench/tool) tighten nut until its snug and install cotter key.
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