My 89 f250 has axle code 35. I have a wheel seal thats leaking diff fluid into my drum and I need to know if its the semi-floating or the full floating axle. Idk how to determine between the two. Also how hard is it to change those seals? I've replaced seals on the front ends of half ton trucks never rear axle wheel seals on 3/4 ton trucks though.

 

If the hub stick out its full floating, if not its semi. On a full floater, the axle flange bolts to the hub (8 bolts or so on the hub, NOT the lug nuts)

Most likely a full floater, semi-floaters are fairly rare and likely only used in gasser apps.

 

First time I ever saw a semi-floater 3/4 was on a friend's '88 7.3, I never understood why they would put a light duty rear end on a diesel truck.

 

they probably didn't. i bet the original rear went, and someone swapped the semi floater in it's place

i have never seen a diesel or 460 truck with a semi floater in it.

 

It's not to bad of a job. Pull the wheel. Pull the drum. Unbolt the axel from the hub, pull axel. The hub nut is a ratcheting type with a locking tab/washer. Remove locking tab first. I think the Dana 60 socket will fit it, if not it's one of the common ones. May have to pry off hub. Drive out old seal and relace with new. There is a upgraded seal that's like a 2-piece unit. I put these on mine, Timken. They are quite a bit more than the house brand. Not sure if they're needed, but mine aren't leaking any more so I'm happy. If you're not going to replace your brake shoes clean them up real good with Brake-Clean. the procedure for tightening the ractheting hub nut is: Tighten to 125 lbs./ft. then back off 1/4 turn.

 

Normally that's what I would figure too, only I was with my friend when he bought this truck back in 2000. It belonged to an old couple that used it to haul their fifth wheel around the country once in a while. This truck was pristine inside and out and had just under 50K on it.

I'm sure a rear end could go under those conditions, but it shouldn't of have.

This truck was nice, king cab, auto, two tone red, maroon interior with the Lariat captain's chair seats...

Friend didn't put many miles on it himself, guy pulled an overloaded trailer through the Rockies in '06ish and killed the C6. He limped it into Los Vegas and bought a new D*dge. Used the Ford as a trade in, they gave him $500. I told the dumba$$ he should have called me, I'd have gone down there and gave him the $500 for it and hauled it back.

 

it was swapped pre-2000 for some reason.
odd things happen.perhaps it failed.perhaps it came with 3.55's and the old timer wanted some 4.10's but didn't know or the garage he went to didn't know any better and they swapped in a semi float.or he got a deal he couldn't pass up.could be lots of stories i suppose but id bet a nickle the truck was a HD and came from ford with a full floating axle originally with matching 8 lug wheels front and rear.the vin would tell all.

spindle nut socket and timkin seal info:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...hlight=toolbox
(actually it's not a spindle back there lol.should call it a hub socket i suppose.whatever it's official name,you'll need one.)

 

Not sure what you mean about the wheels, they did all match. Still had the factory hub caps too.

I know, something probably did happen, but it was the first time I'd ever saw a 3/4 semi-floater in anything at any case....

 

Ive seen plenty of semi-floaters on chevy 2500s, have yet to see one on a ford in a 3/4 ton. In fact until recently i didnt even know there were semi-floater 10.25s Dodge used some semi-floater D60s in thier 3/4 tons as well from what i understand, but havent seen one of those either.

 

Theres a first for everything hairybox!

Heres my friends '89 F250 4x4 5spd with a semi floater 10.25




It's a light duty F250, it has an F150 driveline in it....302/M5OD 5spd and the semi floater rear.

 

i have seen many, and owned a few light duty 302 powered F-250's with the semi float 10.25. but never seen one in a diesel or 460 powered rig from the factory.

 

I just replaced the rear seals when doing my brakes. You have to take the wheel and hub/drum off, which includes the axle for that side out, 16 bolts total, plus the wheel bearing nut. Not all that difficult, you will just need some specialty tools (see link below)

You can do the brakes while you're at it, because you're about halfway there, if you so choose. Seal replacement is detailed here in an article for doing the brakes: http://www.boyandjeep.com/tech-artic...-60-rear-drums, however I found that the seal he uses didn't fit my axle. I have a Dana 70 for sure, he must be working on a Dana 60. The seal I used is # 28720, NAPA AUTO PARTS. Also check the sizes on your lugs before taking that write-up as gospel, because my lugs were bigger. I had to run to the store about 5 times while doing my brakes because I didn't compare the write-up to my truck. ALSO: my driver side lugs are left hand threaded, if that's the side you're having issues with, keep that in mind. There will be an "L" on them if so.

If you do have a Dana 60, I have the seals (24917) and one lock ring (635-1100) I could sell you for cheap, as I don't need it. Let me know via PM.