Good deal Glenn! I need to do the same to mine one of these days. The to do list is long.

 

I don't know yet how much it will help. Your right, there isn't much surface area there but I'll double up on the sound proofing where I can put it. When I first talked to the guy who sold it and gave him the measurements, I questioned him of what he recommended. He said that only 50% coverage works really good. More the better and if you double it, its like 1 + 1 = 3. Yes, I've read removing the dash wasn't so bad, haha. He did a lot of work, faster then I could see each and every move. In the picture you see on the drivers side the big brace, that wasn't necessary to remove but he couldn't figure out what was holding it up. Once he dropped it, he noticed a pin that was holding it up. He just laughed and said, its been awhile. He strips wreaked insurance cars and sells parts or rebuilds them. Pretty talented guy.

Thanks Gabe, I'm also thinking about new carpet and headliner. The carpet is no problem getting it back in but I watched a video on glueing the new headliner on and I don't know if I can handle that without getting a crease in it, LOL


Thanks Pete, a lot of work and I hope its worth it. I'm sure it will be.

 

you'd likely get that by replacing the cab mounts with new rubber. i imagine they are hard and compressed...

richard

 

Looking good Glenn! Glad to see you get the sound proofing going. I know that's something you been wanting to get done for a while.

 

I believe your right Richard and thinking about it, why bother shimming it when you can put new rubber in? Those bolts are really rusted though.


Thanks Bill, I started with the rear 38 gallon tank and now waiting on a sending unit. Started a compression test and now waiting on a fitting. Now I want to finish the sound proofing before I get those up pipes out of there. Exhaust manifold needs fixed, on and on and on.

I don't like posting on my phone either. But I have to admit, the more I do it the easier it gets. This laptop of mine is getting so bad that the other day I backed it up on an external drive. I'll be needing one soon I think. Get better and for goodness sakes, don't rush it. It isn't worth it!!

 

Looking great Glenn! I'm going to do some soundproofing when I pull my carpet to make room for the 4 inch dp I'm putting on. Probably just the floor for now. Means I'm gonna have it pulled up I figure I just as well.

That's gotta make a heck of a difference all the work you are doing!

 

soundproofing looks great, glenn - curious to see how it all turns out - take lots of pictures. my wife isn't asking for it - but probably just because she doesn't know its an option... when I do my paint job, I plan on stripping the whole inside and soundproofing then.

I also need to do new body mounts, so curious to see how you make out there - take lots of pics, please! :-)

if you do go with new mounts, please post what you use and what you think of them. the urethane mounts seem much harder than stock [good condition] factory rubber ones. i'm curious if you'd notice the difference in ride.

 

Thanks Gabe, I'm also thinking about new carpet and headliner. The carpet is no problem getting it back in but I watched a video on glueing the new headliner on and I don't know if I can handle that without getting a crease in it, LOL


Thanks Pete, a lot of work and I hope its worth it. I'm sure it will be.[/quote]

Glenn I did my Headliner It was not that bad really my turned out very good. Just pull the old liner off the board easy around were the sun visor holes it easy to break there. Used a cordless drill and a wire brush to remove old foam from board. Then take the new liner and laid it on the board making sure it would cover the whole thing then I folded it in half and sprayed the glue on let it set for a few min. and started working it on to the board slowly making sure not to crease it. Then do the same to the other half. Trim the edge and your done. I will try and take some pic. of my and post them for you.

 

Thanks Darin, I sure hope it makes a difference! Four inch DP huh? I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to rearrange my 3" so its not pushing on my auto dipstick and causing it to leak. I can't image a 4 incher in there.


I'll post pictures as I go. I also can't image doing body mounts, they are pretty rusted, LOL I'll take pictures as I go.




Oh, maybe I missed that in the video I watched. Just half at a time makes sense. The place where I'm going to order the carpet from also has headliners. I'm trying to decide whether or not to get the 'mass backing' on the carpet. With all this sound proofing, I don't know how much I can build it up before the carpet doesn't fit around the edges.

 

For what it is worth, I replaced mine with the urethane bushings as the cab was sagging. I made a tool to pull them apart. On my list of things to do is to replace them with factory. They are much stiffer and thinking of how much the frame twists versus the 4 door cab that likely doesn't, I really want flexible bushings. Have spare front bolts handy as they are likely rusty or you may need to cut them to remove them.

 

i would stick with the rubber body mounts if you are tryimg to keep noise down. avoid the urethane ones.

richard

 

pretty much exactly what I was thinking. the rubber mounts on my SCLB with 200k miles were totally shot, but somehow the ones on my CCLB with 350k miles are in surprisingly good shape. maybe they're not original, or maybe the fact that this truck was garage-kept for a decent portion of its life makes a difference.

whatever the case, if I can get 100k-150k miles out of stock rubber mounts, i'd rather go that route than have the urethane ones last forever but bend and twist my cab all over the place and open up seams and things.

 

I agree. I hear the poly body mounts are too hard and make the truck ride rougher.

 

Those are some good points, my goal is quiet! My nephew lost me on the core support ones, are they just studs? I bet I'll have to cut them off. What is this tool to take them out?

 

I use long extensions to get down to the nut on the top. They will most likely twist off though. Very seldom do I ever get them off without twisting the studs off.