T5 is a longer transmission and would require you to cut the floor. The original seat may also be in the way of the T5 shifter, if I'm not mistaken.

I wouldn't buy the frame to swap onto yours. I'd buy it just for the 9" rear and swap the rear into your existing frame. Rear end swap can be done in a weekend. Frame swaps take a lot longer.

 

Would the rear end swap also result in a drive-line modification?

 

Welcome to the best forum ever. Looks like you got the fever already. My son and I bought ours when he was 14 and it's been a fun journey. We started with no engine and my son's dream was a show stopper hot rod so we worked hard to make a reasonable and feasible plan. I always tell people to enjoy the trip but don't get to anxious to get there.

 

Well guys, I want to say thank you to all who contribute to this forum. It's amazing how much information is available here. I have been reading daily (my wife is starting to think I have issues with this site) and my son and I have been working on our project. We power washed it a few weeks ago when we got it, took the dilapitated running boards off, removed the rear fenders, and then the box. We then rolled it into the back corner of my basement where we have continued to disassemble, taking off the front clip, removed the windshield and back window (thanks to info from this site). We have the cab mounts all loose and wiring separated from the cab to chassis, all we have left is the steering column and then we can pull the cab off the chassis. We are going to get the frame cleaned up and painted then we can start body work on the rest. Our plan at this time is a ford 9" rear, T-5 tranny conversion, and front disc brakes. We need running boards for sure. We also need to replace an exhaust manifold that is cracked, thinking of using headers from Mid-fifty for that.

 

Looks like you have a good start! Good luck with your build and keep us updated, that way we can keep our wives wondering about our relationship with this site

 

Congrats on the father/son project. Whose truck is this going to be? I drove a '49 with a I-6 in HS and loved it. After graduating I had a cracked block and couldn't find a replacement. So then is when I went to a Big Block. Keep the pics coming as we like our truck **** here... Welcome to the addiction!

 

What's wrong with your current running boards? Rotted through? I have two pairs of solid boards if you're interested.

 

Depending on where your finances are, I believe Speedway Motors has their flat rate shipping special going for $7 now. I did their disc conversion and the shipping special saved me $80.

Here is the disc conversion kit I used and was happy with:

1948-1956 Ford Half Ton Deluxe Disc Brake Kit, 5 x 5-1/2 Inch - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

Just found it. The sale is good on orders over $125 and is good through 01/08/14. Use promo code SR356

 

I'm thinking we'll share driving duties in the truck at least for a while.

51PanelMan, our boards were junk, they came off in pieces. How much do you want for a pair of yours? Any idea on shipping costs to NY?

 

dmack, do you have to change out the master cylinder assembly to get that Speedway front disc kit to work? I was looking at those last night but hadn't pulled the trigger on buying a kit yet.

 

I'll send you an email or PM.

Yes, you need a new dual master cylinder and booster. If you're keeping drums in the rear, you'll need proportioning valves. Speedway sells them too. You can get the new master cylinder from CPP or even Speedway, but CPP sells one that is made specifically for 48-52 trucks. CPP also sells on eBay. The new m/c mounts in the same location as the original m/c and has the pedal coming through the floor.

 

You will want to redo the entire brake system anyway, so I will say yes. The original system was a single reservoir system, so if you had a leak anywhere (like a blown wheel cylinder), you would lose all of your brakes at once. The new master cylinders use a dual chamber system so if you lose brakes on one end, the other will still work. Brakes are one thing you don't want to take a chance on 60 year old parts with, especially with your son driving.

The install is easy, but it will take time if you upgrade everything. I ended up doing a new master and booster ($50 from a friend), then you will also need a proportioning valve (around $30) for the rears. If you keep the MC under the floor, you will also need residual pressure valves (2 at $12 each). I also replaced all of the lines while I was at it (around $40-50).

Also, be sure to check your kingpins. When I jacked up the front end, one tire would move about 1" while rocking it top to bottom. My kingpin bushings were worn out (very common) and it is best get them changed out or your will fight steering and drivability issues constantly.

 

Nice looking truck. Keep steady progress and have fun.

Yep, you are hooked good. Don't fight it, everything you need is here. Nothing else matters.

Good luck with that. You better start planning on hiding the keys now.

 

Impossible. None of us have any issues with this site. We just occasionally check it maybe once a week and post on it maybe once or twice a month. I never have met any of the other members, because they are strangers after all. Our family doesn't make fun of us when they see FTE on the computer screen. Instead, we all just hang out on facebook all day long sharing recipes, "liking" somebody's picture of their dog, making friend requests, etc.

If you believe that, I have some oceanfront property I'll sell you. Be warned now, it's a slippery slope. This forum will become a big part of your life if you allow it.

 

I'd think hard before putting in a 9" AND going to a T5. The stock 3.92 gears are about perfect with a T5, although if you use an S-10 T5 with steep 1st, 1st gear becomes a crawler gear. If you go to something like a 3.50 rear axle AND a T5, your 5th gear will be about useless (effectively a 2.52). Great going downhill, little else.

You can't add OD to the 3-sp, without crossmember surgery more drastic even than that for a T5. While it's a decent enough setup, I'd go T5 just because it's simpler (no electrical controls).