Steves' 49 f1 project
#1
Steves' 49 f1 project
Ok going to start a build thread now. It will be a very slow process due to budget reasons. I know very little of body work, lots of mechanical experience though.
I think i have a long road ahead of me on this one.
Some plans are:
3 inch lowering springs
p/s via toyota box or rack and pinon
disk brakes
ford 9inch rear end
302 carb or efi 351w i have entire harness and computer for
c4 transmission
12 volt conversion
possibly A\C
need to find a tailgate for sure
anyways I've typed long enough lol.
I know you guys love pics so i will post a bunch.
pictures are taken after i cleaned all the dirt and junk out of it.
semi easy dent to fix in rear fender
cleaner inside and hole on passenger floor
has a am radio
very strange clock
the front horns and sheet metal tweaked
drivers door has rust damage at bottom hinge causing it to bind and not want to close
Engine is cleaned off a bit ill pressure wash it off soon. It isn't stuck i can turn it over with a breaker bar, though it feels like it hits a spot where it stops if you go back a bit and the forward it goes past it. Unfortunately the starter is missing so i cant just start it up even if i wanted to.
what in the world is that piece on the steering column????
I think i have a long road ahead of me on this one.
Some plans are:
3 inch lowering springs
p/s via toyota box or rack and pinon
disk brakes
ford 9inch rear end
302 carb or efi 351w i have entire harness and computer for
c4 transmission
12 volt conversion
possibly A\C
need to find a tailgate for sure
anyways I've typed long enough lol.
I know you guys love pics so i will post a bunch.
pictures are taken after i cleaned all the dirt and junk out of it.
semi easy dent to fix in rear fender
cleaner inside and hole on passenger floor
has a am radio
very strange clock
the front horns and sheet metal tweaked
drivers door has rust damage at bottom hinge causing it to bind and not want to close
Engine is cleaned off a bit ill pressure wash it off soon. It isn't stuck i can turn it over with a breaker bar, though it feels like it hits a spot where it stops if you go back a bit and the forward it goes past it. Unfortunately the starter is missing so i cant just start it up even if i wanted to.
what in the world is that piece on the steering column????
#2
#7
Hey Steve,
It looks nice all cleaned up! Your hood & doors look pretty good - important since no one makes those. That little piece up front with the FORD letters on it also looks good - another hard to find piece. The roof of your cab seems to be solid as well.
Our cab floor was pretty similar - they make replacements for those panels or you just weld in flat pieces. The real nice thing is nobody has hacked on your dash - All in all it looks great. We opted to replace that metal bed floor with a nice wood one - there are kits galore for that & they aren't too expensive & they look great.
Looking good over there. Don't be in a hurry to tear it all to pieces - they take forever to get back together & some lose interest. Keep it together & see about getting it running - you can make it pretty over time.
Some relatively cheap modifications just for perspective..
- New Rear Axle - Explorer 8.8 was $125 at scrap yard - gives you
highway gear ratios & rear disc brakes. A Ford 9 inch from F100's works
as well. (Get the emergency brake with it).
- Wood Bed Floor Kit - $250 - $400 or so depending on freight. Some
adjusting to get it in & sealed but not bad.
- '70 Mustang gas tank out back under the bed - $120 from Rock Auto.
A little welding to get the shock mounts in the right place but not bad.
- Seats from a late model small pickup - Ranger, Tacoma, S-10, Dakota,
etc. Need to keep it under 52 inches wide. (Under $200). Will need to
build a platform for it so it sits at right height.
- The replacement glass isn't too expensive either to get it out of the
elements.
Have fun over there!
Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD)
It looks nice all cleaned up! Your hood & doors look pretty good - important since no one makes those. That little piece up front with the FORD letters on it also looks good - another hard to find piece. The roof of your cab seems to be solid as well.
Our cab floor was pretty similar - they make replacements for those panels or you just weld in flat pieces. The real nice thing is nobody has hacked on your dash - All in all it looks great. We opted to replace that metal bed floor with a nice wood one - there are kits galore for that & they aren't too expensive & they look great.
Looking good over there. Don't be in a hurry to tear it all to pieces - they take forever to get back together & some lose interest. Keep it together & see about getting it running - you can make it pretty over time.
Some relatively cheap modifications just for perspective..
- New Rear Axle - Explorer 8.8 was $125 at scrap yard - gives you
highway gear ratios & rear disc brakes. A Ford 9 inch from F100's works
as well. (Get the emergency brake with it).
- Wood Bed Floor Kit - $250 - $400 or so depending on freight. Some
adjusting to get it in & sealed but not bad.
- '70 Mustang gas tank out back under the bed - $120 from Rock Auto.
A little welding to get the shock mounts in the right place but not bad.
- Seats from a late model small pickup - Ranger, Tacoma, S-10, Dakota,
etc. Need to keep it under 52 inches wide. (Under $200). Will need to
build a platform for it so it sits at right height.
- The replacement glass isn't too expensive either to get it out of the
elements.
Have fun over there!
Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD)
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#9
I'd love to get it running as is. Due to buget reasons if I spent the money on a radiator that is missing and a starter as well as having to redo the crumbling wires I'm afraid I'd kick myself for not spending that on the parts I already have.
I have a 302 with c4 out of a 69 f100 parts truck I have
I already have a 9inch out of same truck
Also have a 351w efi and complete aftermarket harness with computer I had for a different project.
The truck as is now the brake pedal is locked up solid won't even move.
I will have to weigh my options for a bit.
Maybe just get a hold of all the patch panels I need is a start and getting signed up to night classes for autobody.
I have a 302 with c4 out of a 69 f100 parts truck I have
I already have a 9inch out of same truck
Also have a 351w efi and complete aftermarket harness with computer I had for a different project.
The truck as is now the brake pedal is locked up solid won't even move.
I will have to weigh my options for a bit.
Maybe just get a hold of all the patch panels I need is a start and getting signed up to night classes for autobody.
#11
I will say that for now, the least of your worries should be a tailgate. There's a lot of work ahead before concerning yourself with minor details like that right now. My first question for you before you get in too deep is, do you have a title for your truck? If you don't, find a way to get your paperwork in order before you invest one dime further in the project. There's several guys here that can share horror stories of having thousands of dollars wrapped up in something they can't register or license. Worse case is confiscation of a vehicle that may have been reported stolen years ago.
After that, my suggestion is to start with what you know how to do, and learn the rest as you go. It sounds like you've got a good start on your drivetrain, and that's great. Do your mechanicals and go through the chassis, brakes, etc., and make it operational. Don't get wrapped up in buying a bunch of patch panels right away. Over time, and when finances afford, you can look for better body parts that can't reasonably be fixed, like the grille. It's very probable you might even find a good, clean parts truck for cheap that you can part out, keep the pieces you need and sell the rest for your project fund. So save your money and keep your eyes open for a good deal.
Best of luck with your project. It looks like fun!
After that, my suggestion is to start with what you know how to do, and learn the rest as you go. It sounds like you've got a good start on your drivetrain, and that's great. Do your mechanicals and go through the chassis, brakes, etc., and make it operational. Don't get wrapped up in buying a bunch of patch panels right away. Over time, and when finances afford, you can look for better body parts that can't reasonably be fixed, like the grille. It's very probable you might even find a good, clean parts truck for cheap that you can part out, keep the pieces you need and sell the rest for your project fund. So save your money and keep your eyes open for a good deal.
Best of luck with your project. It looks like fun!
#12
The guy I bought it from is looking for the title, since I bought this out of his dads junk yard and he has hundreds of titles to go thru. Worse case I will bond a title thru my insurance company.
After the title is handled that is a good idea to get all the chassis stuff handled. WILL have to make sure i can get the front of the frame straight again. The auto body class out at the local college is really good for doing that.
After the title is handled that is a good idea to get all the chassis stuff handled. WILL have to make sure i can get the front of the frame straight again. The auto body class out at the local college is really good for doing that.
#13
Hi Steve,
Good luck with your build firstly, by the looks of it you will have to learn about bodywork as I did, mine was in a bit better state than yours is but its taken me two years to get it something like so what ever happens along the build dont give up, the guys on here kept me going when the chips were down, I will be watching for updates once again good luck Dave (from England)
Good luck with your build firstly, by the looks of it you will have to learn about bodywork as I did, mine was in a bit better state than yours is but its taken me two years to get it something like so what ever happens along the build dont give up, the guys on here kept me going when the chips were down, I will be watching for updates once again good luck Dave (from England)
#14
#15
Ok decided to tackle something before i haul this out to the college to get my frame straightened up front.
The front wheel on the drivers side had been half buried in the dirt for probably more years than ive been alive. Needless to say the wheel was locked up tight would not move a bit.
I took the outside bearing out and took the tire off, and beat on the drum with a big rubber mallet. a bunch of dirt came out i repeated this while trying to pry a bit as well.
Over 2 cups of dirt came out of the drum but the shoes were rusted in the drum and keeping me from pulling the drum. Fortunately the hold down pin is bolted in and i could remove it and the shoes.
ANYwhoo a few pics.
started taking pics right before i removed the pin
And the drums off
the shoes taken out
inside the drum
welp now the truck will roll WAY easier.
The front wheel on the drivers side had been half buried in the dirt for probably more years than ive been alive. Needless to say the wheel was locked up tight would not move a bit.
I took the outside bearing out and took the tire off, and beat on the drum with a big rubber mallet. a bunch of dirt came out i repeated this while trying to pry a bit as well.
Over 2 cups of dirt came out of the drum but the shoes were rusted in the drum and keeping me from pulling the drum. Fortunately the hold down pin is bolted in and i could remove it and the shoes.
ANYwhoo a few pics.
started taking pics right before i removed the pin
And the drums off
the shoes taken out
inside the drum
welp now the truck will roll WAY easier.