Double flaring that is. A while back I bought the stainless brake line set from LMC and had no issues with them except that the lines from the wheels dictated where I installed the proportioning valve (which ended up being on the engine cross member. So the lines running from there up to the master cylinder looked a mess so I rerouted them and cut off the ends that connect to the MC for a cleaner and neater look only to find out that flaring them is an absolute pain. Lesson learned. I can not flare them with the normal rent from the auto parts store flaring tool. It will not hold the line when attempting the first flare. I even put the vice in my bench vise and still no luck and also heated it up. I took them by a brake shop and they couldn't do it (same tool same problem). So my question is, what kind of shop have you taken yours too that was able to do it. I need two ends flared and really don't want to spend $140 on this special tool I read that was required to do it that I would use once.

 

hydraulics shop can do it.

 

Alternatively, you could send the line to Inline Tube for custom duplication, with instructions to replicate the line as shown and add a double flare to the unfinished end.

 

In Line may offer a tool capable... if not others do. Expect to pay several hundred dollars. The local hydraulic shop or send it back to Inline sounds like the better option. That's why I prefer mild steel... my $15 or so flaring tool works fine.

 

I dont want to tell tou what to do or not to do but I do have a suggestion... Watch some youtube videos on double flaring and practice with some scrap lines until you get the hang of it. If the tool you rented wont grip the line, take it back and rent another; elsewhere if need be.

I was able to apply numerous double flares to some used lines I salvaged from the wrecking yard without heat. If you can do this, it will save you money. Good luck.

 

You might have missed the key word: he's working with stainless steel lines. Stainless steel lines cannot be double flared with a standard die set; the line will push right out of the clamp and likely take some of the teeth with it. While a conventional die set might be able to nip the tube somewhat, it won't be a full double flare that will seal properly.

Assuming the lines you found in the junkyard came out of a normal vehicle, they likely would have been tin plated, or even aluminum. Those can be double flared with a standard die set all day long.

 

Thanks for the tip, I called them and as a last resort I'll have to mail them in and they will look at them and call me to give a quote on what it will cost to duplicate them. No brake or hydraulic shops I've called so far around here will/can do it. I might end up going back to the plain ones... I really screwed the pooch on this one

 

There's a new kind of brake lines that we started handling that will not rust, it's a NiCopp (nickel-copper) Alloy Brake Line. Comes in rolls or lengths like other lines, and it doesn't rust over time. Not as pretty as Stainless Steel by some opinions .... but pretty if polished and clear coated and so easy to work with.

Just throwing it in as an option.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...9-p#fragment-1

 

Eastwood sell a tool that does stainless.

 

Fedhill brake line...yes Im in the inbetween whether to go SS or Nic C