Well I blew it, literally...
#31
10-29-2013, 06:11 PM
I Concur with oldmerc. My 351C had sat for 30 years. I cleaned it up and got it started, ran pretty good but wanted to not worry about what shape it was really in. So I pulled it and tore it down. Looked pretty good but took it to a machine shop to boil it out and check everything. They called me back the next day and asked me to drop by. They showed me I had one warped head and a cylinder that had been run with rust pitting almost the whole way down the cylinder. They said they could mill the head (and the other to match) but would have to bore the block .030. So new pistons, rings bearings and Cam ( a lobe was knocked off). And I thought I was done, Oh NO. The machine shop recommends I have the head pressure checked as 351s we're know to leak coolant inside the intake passages befor the Valve. You guessed it needed to go find one head because it was leaking.
Moral to the story: If you want a reliable engine you better tear it down and go through everything BEFORE you get it in your vehicle.
Moral to the story: If you want a reliable engine you better tear it down and go through everything BEFORE you get it in your vehicle.
#32
10-29-2013, 06:40 PM
Fleet Owner
Nothing wrong with steel, and they are normally galvanized. It's that the PO wasn't good about coolant quality, and regular changes. It turns acidic after a while. As I recall your radiator was bad too? Better check the heater core!
#33
10-29-2013, 08:44 PM
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The radiator was absolutely demolished, I put in a new one. I won't ever use the heater so I'm thinking about just bypassing it and avoiding any future issues with it. Hope it's ok to do that...
#34
10-29-2013, 08:46 PM
#35
10-29-2013, 09:30 PM
I'd opt for brass freeze plugs and don't order anything until the machine shop tells you what the real deal is. I thought I was just going to freshen up mine but the machine shop let me know differently!!!! If all you have to do is bearings, rings, and a rebuild set you should be able to keep it under $700.00 including a valve job. Unfortunately I wasn't that lucky. Be sure to add hardened intake seats!!! Wishing you the best!!!
#36
10-29-2013, 11:54 PM
Before committing to a rebuild, have the block and heads checked and get a quote for the machining then compare the cost to buying a rebuilt shortblock and/or long block from a national rebuilder like Jasper that includes a realistic length warantee. I would never spend 4K for a rebuilt longblock! I'd put in a late model low mileage engine and tranny that I could hear run and/or drive for significantly less than 1/2 the rebuild cost.
#37
10-30-2013, 11:54 AM
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I agree that ya can't beat a Jasper engine. I have installed many back in the day when I was running my shop. Never had any problem with there work. Just get one the same as ya got now (A long Block so the heads are done) and bolt yer stuff to it. And yer driving in a weekend.
Yes I could overhaul them for less than a Jasper Long block plus shipping. But not when I added in my time that would be used for other work in the shop.
Yes I could overhaul them for less than a Jasper Long block plus shipping. But not when I added in my time that would be used for other work in the shop.
#38
10-30-2013, 01:04 PM
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Reading their website it looks like you have to get it through an installer?
I agree that ya can't beat a Jasper engine. I have installed many back in the day when I was running my shop. Never had any problem with there work. Just get one the same as ya got now (A long Block so the heads are done) and bolt yer stuff to it. And yer driving in a weekend.
Yes I could overhaul them for less than a Jasper Long block plus shipping. But not when I added in my time that would be used for other work in the shop.
Yes I could overhaul them for less than a Jasper Long block plus shipping. But not when I added in my time that would be used for other work in the shop.
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Eric_F250
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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