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Old 10-26-2013, 12:08 PM
cbrown9064 cbrown9064 is offline
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Another oil filter post...

OK, so as not to hijack the other threads, I have some questions/concerns.

As part of my Uncles's estate, we (family) inherited his 2005 F-250. This is kept at his (now our) lake home. It is near a small town and the only quick lube is at Wally World. No one else is open on weekends to change oil. Besides the fact that I could have done it myself (and will next time) we took it to the Wally World quick lube just to be rid of the ~4 gallons (15 qts) of oil since my other pails were full of tractor fluids that needed to go to the transfer station.

So all is well until I see the lube guy struggling to get the filter cap on. Can't get it on. Pulls the filter out, compares old to new and tries and tries. I start to freak out and get on my phone to google issue. Walk over and compare Fram and M/C filters on shelf and they appear exactly the same. By the time I get back to the window the "manager" dude is leaning over the front of the truck and trying like he'll to get the filter cap on. The finally did. I did not see if the were forcing it on or what.

So, never having changed oil on this truck;

1) what the heck could the problem have been?
2) should I pull the filter off and inspect? What should I look for?
3) assume you can pull filter and not make a mess (no oil in housing), how does that work?

After reading many oil filter threads, I am wondering what would be so hard for these guys to change a filter?

The truck always had the filter changed at the dealership when my Uncle was alive, but they are only open on weekdays. I would think they used a Motorcraft filter, but who knows. The change before this one was Sept 2012. About 4000 miles.

The Lake is 300 miles from home, so when we get there it would be hard to take the truck to the dealer on a weekday.

So, thoughts? Truck has only been driven 40 miles since change. Probably will not get 2500 miles on it in the next year... Will plan on changing the oil again next fall. BTW, looked in manual and decided to use 10-30, as it gets cold up in northern Minnesota. Used Rotella T. Seemed a bit overkill for the amount of miles we will drive the truck, but oil is cheap in the scheme of things I guess.
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Old 10-26-2013, 12:21 PM
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You can take the filter out without draining any oil. Once you open the cap, the oil drains back to the pan. If this was my truck, I would take a new OEM oil filter cap with me and a new motorcraft filter with me. Open and inspect. I speculate that there is an aftermarket cap, or the wrong filter, or both. It should not be that difficult to put together.

Also, you may find that the filter is crushed in the housing if they had to force it. Do you know what filter was in there before you got the oil changed? Perhaps there is something going on with the stand pipe. Pull it apart, and compare it to pics online and see if it looks "normal" in there. Or post them up here and I'm sure there are some folks that can tell, you what is going on if you get some good pics.
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Old 10-26-2013, 12:32 PM
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There are some filters that come with an adapter to put on the inside the OEM cap to make their filter work. Due to it being too short.

I agree that a new cap and filter be taken with you the next time and check the old cap for the adapter that is not supposed to be in there.
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Old 10-26-2013, 12:32 PM
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I would check it before driving 300 miles in case they crushed the filter or damaged the stand pipe.
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Old 10-26-2013, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69cj View Post
I would check it before driving 300 miles in case they crushed the filter or damaged the stand pipe.
Truck is parked in the garage at the Lake. I am 300 miles away from it...
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Old 10-26-2013, 01:41 PM
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Thanks for the good advice guys! I will stop by our local dealer here, and get a new cap and filter. Then take them with me the next time I go over to the Lake and change them out.

Thanks!
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Old 10-26-2013, 01:44 PM
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Do you know what filter was in there before you got the oil changed? .
Not off hand, but the service records since the truck was new in 2005 are also at the Lake. I will check that out also.
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Old 10-26-2013, 03:09 PM
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I guess that the top disk piece is still stuck in the cap from the old filter, and that's why it doesn't fit. With that, it could be because the cap is one of those "one piece" cap/filter jobs that wix sells. When they took the old filter out it tore the filter media off the cap, leaving that top disk in there. Then they grabbed a motorcraft filter and "installed" it. Not that I'd know any thing about that.

Lets just say I had to buy a new cap and another motorcraft filter. thanks FTE and YouTube videos to see what I had not payed attention to.
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Old 10-26-2013, 03:15 PM
99ExpyProblems 99ExpyProblems is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbrown9064 View Post
So, thoughts? Truck has only been driven 40 miles since change. Probably will not get 2500 miles on it in the next year...
It's never a good idea to leave a Diesel sitting like that. Diesel fuel goes bad (well, I guess gas does too, but I always heard Diesel is worse), turbo seizes from not being used, batteries are expensive etc. It's just not designed to sit like that. If it were mine, I would trade it in or sell it outright and get me another truck to have at the Lake House.

Is there any reason you MUST have a Diesel? The V10 version of that truck is CHEAP!
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Old 10-26-2013, 03:29 PM
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Just for reference the filter on the left is the Wix, on the right is the Motorcraft with factory cap. The Wix is a one piece unit and come with the cap installed. Motorcraft is filter only and re-use cap. It's possible they pried the filter out of the Wix cap and reused it with a Motorcraft or Fram filter element. A bad combination that doesn't filter at all.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 10-26-2013, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99ExpyProblems View Post
It's never a good idea to leave a Diesel sitting like that. Diesel fuel goes bad (well, I guess gas does too, but I always heard Diesel is worse), turbo seizes from not being used, batteries are expensive etc. It's just not designed to sit like that. If it were mine, I would trade it in or sell it outright and get me another truck to have at the Lake House.

Is there any reason you MUST have a Diesel? The V10 version of that truck is CHEAP!
No reason we have to have it, just that my Uncle special ordered it and received in Feb. of 2005. So we didn't buy it, he did...

It probably gets driven 50-100 miles every two weeks (to town and back) so it still uses it share of diesel.

But, yeah, I hear you about the lack of use. It's paid for, we just put new tires on it and it does not "owe" us anything. If something bad were to happen to it, I doubt we would replace it with another F-250, let alone a diesel. I have the old '86 F-150 that I am still trying to get running for plowing season, so if we had to do something we would probably get a 86-91 f-150 and transfer our existing plow. Already thought about putting the plow on the F-250, but it won't fit. a 2004 has a kit for that plow frame but Meyer claims it won't work on a 2005. And, a new Hinicker plow (straight blade) is $4800 for the f-250.

At any rate, you make a good comment and something to consider...
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Old 10-26-2013, 05:42 PM
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You also need to buy the 8 point socket that turns that filter cap. Do not use a wrench or a 1/2 " drive in the hole. Also it only needs to be torqued to 18 lb-ft or so, lube the o ring on the cap with engine oil and don't over tighten. With only 10w30 oil it should not be towing, and only for winter. 15w40 Dino proper diesel oil, or synthetic 5w40, which can be used year round and for towing. Batteries should be kept at room temp in winter and removed from truck and charged up before you try and start it. Low voltage will cause you lots of headaches, with starting, glow plugs and fuel injection control module, sensitive to low batteries. Where it is stored is it cold and humid? Preferably warmer and dry otherwise sticking turbo will be a problem. Watch the boost gauge, it should not go above 28 psi, or will do damage. You will want to review the tech folder and plan ahead. You should also be sure to leave the diesel full, fresh, and treated and use it all up, down to 1/4 before filling up. Diesel Kleen with anti gel is reasonable price. This prevents water, condensation, again, temp controlled dry storage pays off here.
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Old 10-26-2013, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhoefer View Post
You also need to buy the 8 point socket that turns that filter cap. Do not use a wrench or a 1/2 " drive in the hole. Also it only needs to be torqued to 18 lb-ft or so, lube the o ring on the cap with engine oil and don't over tighten. With only 10w30 oil it should not be towing, and only for winter. 15w40 Dino proper diesel oil, or synthetic 5w40, which can be used year round and for towing. Batteries should be kept at room temp in winter and removed from truck and charged up before you try and start it. Low voltage will cause you lots of headaches, with starting, glow plugs and fuel injection control module, sensitive to low batteries. Where it is stored is it cold and humid? Preferably warmer and dry otherwise sticking turbo will be a problem. Watch the boost gauge, it should not go above 28 psi, or will do damage. You will want to review the tech folder and plan ahead. You should also be sure to leave the diesel full, fresh, and treated and use it all up, down to 1/4 before filling up. Diesel Kleen with anti gel is reasonable price. This prevents water, condensation, again, temp controlled dry storage pays off here.
Actually once the cap bottoms out your good to go. The O ring does the sealing not the threads. The socket you want to use is 36mm. Under 10 bucks at Pep Boys.
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbrown9064 View Post
It probably gets driven 50-100 miles every two weeks (to town and back) so it still uses it share of diesel.
Well, that MAY be enough... every two weeks romp on it and clear it out I guess. I don't know, but not to beat a dead horse, if you only do 50 miles every two weeks and you get say 400 miles on a tank before filling up again, that means that the fuel left in the tank will be about 4 months old? If you don't get there every 2 weeks.... well, even older fuel.

I wonder how long people on these forums leave theirs to sit? I've run about 8,000 miles on mine since July 31st or so?
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:43 PM
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You will have no issues with 10w-30, I have had it in my 6.0 year around for over 100,000 mi. without issue as I tow and load the bed in 90f summer heat.

I agree with the advice above as to your filter issue, probably not securely attached to the cap/broken piece of the old filter in the cap. Get that checked out and you should be good to go.
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