I like it! Looks good..

 

I don't want to single any one person out so I'll just say. Some of the abilities and workmanship shown on this board is astounding. Way to go guy's

 

Yeah, when I grow up I want to develop skills like some of these fellows possess.

 

Any details on the metal brake? Looks good. I built a brake based on something from a Mother Earth News magazine about 30 years ago but it's not quite as refined as yours appears to be.

 

+1 Mike and Joe's comment about the fabulous fab projects some here have done. My examples are like Doods54. But I'll post my hanging brake pedal bracket. From a 77 Chevy with extension top and bottom to get to the top and bottom fire wall pinch seams and a strut to the bottom of the dash. Seems plenty stout. Some day I might remove the arm, cut off the pedal and weld on a heavy nut to attach the oem pedal.

 

some simple yet effective firewall patches ratrod style (no, it's not an excuse for lazy fabwork I'm going for that look)

 

I think the rat rod guys today saw what we did many years ago and copy things like firewall patches and less than perfect welds. We called it 'fixing stuff'....... We didn't know there would someday be 'rat rods'. Nice fab work, all of you.

 

Actually I was just kinda winging it.....it is pretty simply built, the base is a couple pieces of 8" channel. The clamp is a piece of grader blade (cutting edge), and the tipping blade is 5/8x 4". Spring loaded clamps are large bolts.

 

Home made xmember for my T5

 

Not a major fabrication but - I made bed roll lights.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ll-lights.html

 

I have several fabrication projects documented in my galleries (click on my user name at the top of any of my posts, select view gallery, select appropriate gallery) but here's one reposted:
Repro LED caddy tailights frenched in the rear fenders of my 56 panel
1. building 16 ga bucket around wood buck


2. Making sure top is same size/shape as bottom after welding:


3. Frame ready to have base welded in:


4. Wood buck, LED taillight, finished bucket:


5.Deciding on placement:


6. Body opening cut. Note raised OEM taillight mount area not yet shaved, filled.


7. Bucket inset and angle determined, body line traced on outside of bucket:


8. Bucket skip tacked to body opening:


9, Original raised mount area cut away, shaped patch fitted:


10. bucket and patch completely welded, excess bucket ground smooth, inside corners being rounded with die grinder:


11. Locating any high or low spots with body (vixen) file:


12. Metal finishing nearly complete. Just a couple small low spots to raise up and a skim coat of putty to finish.


13. Pass side done same way. Test fitting taillight:

 

^^^^^I remember that post. That was a loooong time ago.

 

[quote=AXracer;13664665]I have several fabrication projects documented in my galleries (click on my user name at the top of any of my posts, select view gallery, select appropriate gallery) but here's one reposted:

Ax, thanks for the re-post. I've spent countless hours going through galleries looking for fabrication projects like yours and I thought this thread would highlight a variety of fabrication projects done by different builders.

I know that there are a lot of interesting fabrication projects hidden in the galleries, but I don't get a lot of positive results using the search features.

 

Installed a sterling 10 1/4 rear from a '92 F350 under my '59 F350. Had to move the existing spring mounts about 1 1/2", while keeping same driveline angle. Then I modified the driveshaft length by using about 10" of the '92s shaft telescoped over the cut-off end of the 59's. The eight 1/4-20 round head stove bolts provided perfect spacers for aligning the two. I could not slide them together without light tapping with a brass hammer. At the open end where dissimilar diameters presented a welding challange, I took a ring off a piece of steel pipe and removed the weld line inside with a die grinder, then tapped it up the smaller shaft. I tacked it in place and needed to taper this ring so it would engage part way into the larger shaft. There was a 4 speed 'lathe', powered by a six cylinder engine mounted in just the right place. Thus, I engaged second gear and using an angle grinder, tapered my ring with a trial and error fit. Next, being very careful to keep the u-joins in sync, I welded it up. The inside of the ring to the small shaft, the outside of the ring to the larger shaft. I know driveline work is fairly cheap, but so am I. As for safety, all I can think of for failure is my weld fails, and the two shafts slide within each other and I roll to a stop. Thinking a 3" dia shaft has about 9"+ of weld around it to shear. At 60, no vibration I can detect......

 

My most recent fabrication involved making this bracket to fit a Chrysler PS pump (since I'm using a Volare suspension) to the front of a 302 Ford engine...