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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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  #16  
Old 10-24-2013, 12:25 PM
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I like it! Looks good..
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  #17  
Old 10-24-2013, 03:44 PM
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I don't want to single any one person out so I'll just say. Some of the abilities and workmanship shown on this board is astounding. Way to go guy's
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  #18  
Old 10-24-2013, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rimrock F1 View Post
I don't want to single any one person out so I'll just say. Some of the abilities and workmanship shown on this board is astounding. Way to go guy's
Yeah, when I grow up I want to develop skills like some of these fellows possess.
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51 F4 "Betsy" http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/10...4-project.html "If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." Henry Ford
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  #19  
Old 10-24-2013, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinman52 View Post
I have to fab stuff almost for vehicles almost daily it seems.
One of the more fun projects was building a sheet metal break. I made it from steel I had laying around, it will bend 18 ga 4 foot wide. It could use some counterweights though if I ever get around to it...
Any details on the metal brake? Looks good. I built a brake based on something from a Mother Earth News magazine about 30 years ago but it's not quite as refined as yours appears to be.
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  #20  
Old 10-24-2013, 05:05 PM
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+1 Mike and Joe's comment about the fabulous fab projects some here have done. My examples are like Doods54. But I'll post my hanging brake pedal bracket. From a 77 Chevy with extension top and bottom to get to the top and bottom fire wall pinch seams and a strut to the bottom of the dash. Seems plenty stout. Some day I might remove the arm, cut off the pedal and weld on a heavy nut to attach the oem pedal.
Click the image to open in full size.
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  #21  
Old 10-24-2013, 05:32 PM
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some simple yet effective firewall patches ratrod style (no, it's not an excuse for lazy fabwork I'm going for that look)

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  #22  
Old 10-24-2013, 08:08 PM
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I think the rat rod guys today saw what we did many years ago and copy things like firewall patches and less than perfect welds. We called it 'fixing stuff'....... We didn't know there would someday be 'rat rods'. Nice fab work, all of you.
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  #23  
Old 10-24-2013, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drewski 2 View Post
Any details on the metal brake? Looks good. I built a brake based on something from a Mother Earth News magazine about 30 years ago but it's not quite as refined as yours appears to be.
Actually I was just kinda winging it.....it is pretty simply built, the base is a couple pieces of 8" channel. The clamp is a piece of grader blade (cutting edge), and the tipping blade is 5/8x 4". Spring loaded clamps are large bolts.
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  #24  
Old 10-24-2013, 09:45 PM
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Home made xmember for my T5
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  #25  
Old 10-24-2013, 10:52 PM
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Not a major fabrication but - I made bed roll lights.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...ll-lights.html
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  #26  
Old 10-25-2013, 01:06 AM
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Chuck Frank
I have several fabrication projects documented in my galleries (click on my user name at the top of any of my posts, select view gallery, select appropriate gallery) but here's one reposted:
Repro LED caddy tailights frenched in the rear fenders of my 56 panel
1. building 16 ga bucket around wood buck
Click the image to open in full size.

2. Making sure top is same size/shape as bottom after welding:
Click the image to open in full size.

3. Frame ready to have base welded in:
Click the image to open in full size.

4. Wood buck, LED taillight, finished bucket:
Click the image to open in full size.

5.Deciding on placement:
Click the image to open in full size.

6. Body opening cut. Note raised OEM taillight mount area not yet shaved, filled.
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7. Bucket inset and angle determined, body line traced on outside of bucket:
Click the image to open in full size.

8. Bucket skip tacked to body opening:
Click the image to open in full size.

9, Original raised mount area cut away, shaped patch fitted:
Click the image to open in full size.

10. bucket and patch completely welded, excess bucket ground smooth, inside corners being rounded with die grinder:
Click the image to open in full size.

11. Locating any high or low spots with body (vixen) file:
Click the image to open in full size.

12. Metal finishing nearly complete. Just a couple small low spots to raise up and a skim coat of putty to finish.
Click the image to open in full size.

13. Pass side done same way. Test fitting taillight:
Click the image to open in full size.
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  #27  
Old 10-25-2013, 10:21 AM
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^^^^^I remember that post. That was a loooong time ago.
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  #28  
Old 10-25-2013, 10:51 AM
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[quote=AXracer;13664665]I have several fabrication projects documented in my galleries (click on my user name at the top of any of my posts, select view gallery, select appropriate gallery) but here's one reposted:

Ax, thanks for the re-post. I've spent countless hours going through galleries looking for fabrication projects like yours and I thought this thread would highlight a variety of fabrication projects done by different builders.

I know that there are a lot of interesting fabrication projects hidden in the galleries, but I don't get a lot of positive results using the search features.


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  #29  
Old 10-25-2013, 12:06 PM
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Installed a sterling 10 1/4 rear from a '92 F350 under my '59 F350. Had to move the existing spring mounts about 1 1/2", while keeping same driveline angle. Then I modified the driveshaft length by using about 10" of the '92s shaft telescoped over the cut-off end of the 59's. The eight 1/4-20 round head stove bolts provided perfect spacers for aligning the two. I could not slide them together without light tapping with a brass hammer. At the open end where dissimilar diameters presented a welding challange, I took a ring off a piece of steel pipe and removed the weld line inside with a die grinder, then tapped it up the smaller shaft. I tacked it in place and needed to taper this ring so it would engage part way into the larger shaft. There was a 4 speed 'lathe', powered by a six cylinder engine mounted in just the right place. Thus, I engaged second gear and using an angle grinder, tapered my ring with a trial and error fit. Next, being very careful to keep the u-joins in sync, I welded it up. The inside of the ring to the small shaft, the outside of the ring to the larger shaft. I know driveline work is fairly cheap, but so am I. As for safety, all I can think of for failure is my weld fails, and the two shafts slide within each other and I roll to a stop. Thinking a 3" dia shaft has about 9"+ of weld around it to shear. At 60, no vibration I can detect......
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  #30  
Old 10-26-2013, 09:12 AM
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My most recent fabrication involved making this bracket to fit a Chrysler PS pump (since I'm using a Volare suspension) to the front of a 302 Ford engine...

Click the image to open in full size.

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Old 10-26-2013, 09:12 AM
 
 
 
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