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  #46  
Old 10-22-2013, 06:29 PM
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Garrett 38R 1.0 vs 1.15 dyno test - PowerStrokeArmy

sure its a 38r but i think the same concept applies to out turbos as well, unless somebody can explain why it wouldnt apply.
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  #47  
Old 10-22-2013, 06:42 PM
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You can tighten the stock waste gate all the way down and get close to or above 30 psi with stock sticks. That's why I say don't waste your money on big head. The RR wheel is made to help lower back pressure which lengthens the life of the turbo. I have a stock turbo with 6/6 wheel and I can peg my 30psi gauge and have compared back pressure and it now runs closer to compressor side. I do run 160/30 sticks so I am not saying you can do this with a stock setup, just an example.
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  #48  
Old 10-22-2013, 06:48 PM
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Push buttons across a computer screen? No. Express my irritation of your attitude towards others? Yes. People here are trying to help you. Good luck.
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  #49  
Old 10-22-2013, 06:53 PM
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Push buttons across a computer screen? No. Express my irritation of your attitude towards others? Yes. People here are trying to help you. Good luck.
HAHAHA. Im glad nothing you said helped.
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  #50  
Old 10-22-2013, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by JT250 View Post
You can tighten the stock waste gate all the way down and get close to or above 30 psi with stock sticks. That's why I say don't waste your money on big head. The RR wheel is made to help lower back pressure which lengthens the life of the turbo. I have a stock turbo with 6/6 wheel and I can peg my 30psi gauge and have compared back pressure and it now runs closer to compressor side. I do run 160/30 sticks so I am not saying you can do this with a stock setup, just an example.
I understand you can get 30psi with the stock waste gate but when you tiighten that down you weaken the spring.... Which is why I would get the new one.
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  #51  
Old 10-22-2013, 06:58 PM
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I understand you can get 30psi with the stock waste gate but when you tiighten that down you weaken the spring.... Which is why I would get the new one.
I would tighten it down with some bailing wire... What's the point of a WG if you are gonna push the turbo well past its design limits anyway!!!

Or get a set-up that didn't need to waste drive pressure in the first place.
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  #52  
Old 10-22-2013, 06:58 PM
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PHP did a test on the 1.0 vs 1.15..... The 1.0 had higher HP/Torque numbers and gained 1-2 boost on both stock and upgraded sticks.....

Im gonna go with the 1.0.....
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  #53  
Old 10-22-2013, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason View Post
I would tighten down with some bailing wire...

Or get a set-up that didn't need to waste drive pressure in the first place.
Im not getting something thats nonwastegated...
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  #54  
Old 10-22-2013, 07:01 PM
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Im not getting something thats nonwastegated...
Spoken like someone who really doesn't understand all of this yet... Good luck!
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  #55  
Old 10-22-2013, 07:02 PM
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Spoken like someone who really doesn't understand all of this yet...
Please elaborate then....
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  #56  
Old 10-22-2013, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by diehardstroker View Post
Garrett 38R 1.0 vs 1.15 dyno test - PowerStrokeArmy

sure its a 38r but i think the same concept applies to out turbos as well, unless somebody can explain why it wouldnt apply.
I see awesome numbers for the 1.0.... I think we have a winner but yet we still haven't had an argument to go Garrett over BP....

So I believe Im going to the cheaper route.
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  #57  
Old 10-22-2013, 07:11 PM
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  #58  
Old 10-22-2013, 07:27 PM
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Also remember the 38r had bigger wheels so it will have less restriction and the back pressure will be less hence the 1.15 not being as important as it is on the stock turbo
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  #59  
Old 10-22-2013, 07:32 PM
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alright guys, pissing match is not necessary, lets a have a decent discussion on this so we all come out better informed. lets clear some things up:
1. again id like to point out what i was able to find on a 1.0 vs a 1.15, I really think that should play a big effect, it is a 38r if some of you want to argue the point, but either way the 38r uses the same size exhaust wheel on a stock SD turbo, really the difference is in the compressor wheel and the ball bearings, ball bearings aside, that leaves the wheel, we have billet wheels for our turbo so we have potential of moving more air, so you can apply the same facts that PHP found to our turbos, which is the 1.0 performs better.
2. i think most people on here will agree the stock wastegate is pretty weak, ive tightend mine down and i know for a fact that it still bleeds off pressure, next best option is a turbomaster or a banks bighead which have been proven to hold pressures much better plus say DHamSTER gets himself a set of stage 1 or 2's 40 psi is not unreasonable ive heard and read a lot of people recommend if your going over 40 psi headstuds are in the picture, this is where the wastegate comes in set it to 35 and be happy.
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  #60  
Old 10-22-2013, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rat49f6 View Post
Also remember the 38r had bigger wheels so it will have less restriction and the back pressure will be less hence the 1.15 not being as important as it is on the stock turbo
bigger compressor wheel
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