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  #31  
Old 10-22-2013, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BWST View Post
The ported housing let's you compress more air with the stock wheel without surging. The "wicked wheel" reduced surge by sacrificing how much air it grabbed. I think the ported housing is the way to go to get more air. Then add the ported housing wheel from riffraff - I think it's different than the 6/6 wheel. The ported housing wheel grabs even more air - hopefully without re-introducing surge.
It does not re-introduce, atleast I haven't experienced any with it,

DHAMSTER I was talking about another members home built turbo.
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  #32  
Old 10-22-2013, 11:35 AM
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I missed the banks part ...wasnt aware they made a housing for a van turbo

As far as a factory turbo goes, changing housings will never give you a bump in horsepower it will only change at what point your turbo is effective

Without changing the wheels you will not flow more air

Id say for the money a van turbo machined to fit a riffraff 38r billet wheel would be the ultimate drop in turbo... and yes it will flow as much or more air as a 38r and is rebuildable
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  #33  
Old 10-22-2013, 11:46 AM
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sorry, the WW came to mind because the 6/6 is also a wheel with high/low blades and has to compromise to pull air without surging - still better than the stock wheel based on riffraff's tests.
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  #34  
Old 10-22-2013, 12:27 PM
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sorry, the WW came to mind because the 6/6 is also a wheel with high/low blades and has to compromise to pull air without surging - still better than the stock wheel based on riffraff's tests.
The wicked wheel was actually tested on stage 2 injectors which is why I decided to pass. Plus it's 230 bucks compared to Riffraffs 6/6 at 200.
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  #35  
Old 10-22-2013, 03:33 PM
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rat49f6,

Quote:
Id say for the money a van turbo machined to fit a riffraff 38r billet wheel would be the ultimate drop in turbo... and yes it will flow as much or more air as a 38r and is rebuildable
I have a Van Turbo. Has anyone actually machined a Van Turbo to work with a riffraff 38r billet wheel? I would be interested in this.

Thanks
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  #36  
Old 10-22-2013, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snknby123 View Post
rat49f6,

I have a Van Turbo. Has anyone actually machined a Van Turbo to work with a riffraff 38r billet wheel? I would be interested in this.

Thanks
I have done a few of each. ..obs, e99 and late 99... a van housing is the same as a late 99
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e 99 F250 super duty ext cab xlt 7.3 PSD ZF6 this describes it best... http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/10...ld-thread.html
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  #37  
Old 10-22-2013, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by DHamSTER View Post
I know you can push the stocker Wastegate pretty high in PSI but there's got a max point and I'm hoping for in the 30s.

Are you running in stock tune or are you always running in something else to keep it from being laggy?

I've gotta go with Diehard on this one. I've heard of more people running a 1.0. It's a happy medium kind of thing. Now it's just a decision on which one to get. If we go back to the original post that's what I want to know.
I second the opinion of the big head being a waste. I got no more boost with it. It happened to be free so oh well.
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  #38  
Old 10-22-2013, 04:05 PM
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I second the opinion of the big head being a waste. I got no more boost with it. It happened to be free so oh well.
It's not a performance upgrade.....
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  #39  
Old 10-22-2013, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHamSTER View Post
I know you can push the stocker Wastegate pretty high in PSI but there's got a max point and I'm hoping for in the 30s.
Yet you say "It's not a performance upgrade......."

My response simply stated that I saw no difference between the two actuators. Did I say I did or did not get a performance gain? Don't think so. You need a beer. Or 18.
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  #40  
Old 10-22-2013, 04:26 PM
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Van turbo fixes both of theses issues. .. won't over boost it with stock injectors so non wastegated is great and gives you more range to use the full potential of a sock injector
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  #41  
Old 10-22-2013, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01PS View Post
Yet you say "It's not a performance upgrade......."

My response simply stated that I saw no difference between the two actuators. Did I say I did or did not get a performance gain? Don't think so. You need a beer. Or 18.
Not entirely sure why you think your last statement was needed. Just trying to push buttons across a computer screen?
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  #42  
Old 10-22-2013, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by rat49f6 View Post
Van turbo fixes both of theses issues. .. won't over boost it with stock injectors so non wastegated is great and gives you more range to use the full potential of a sock injector
Okay I'm glad to be informed about the van turbo but what you people don't seem to get it I want to know the opinion on the two options for the 1.0..... Back to my post that started the thread....
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  #43  
Old 10-22-2013, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHamSTER View Post
I know you can push the stocker Wastegate pretty high in PSI but there's got a max point and I'm hoping for in the 30s.

Are you running in stock tune or are you always running in something else to keep it from being laggy?
You will not see much over 30psi with stock sticks anyway. Boost isn't the problem. Turbo life suffers from drive pressure exceeding boost pressure. If you plan on running tunes and using a stock turbo, a short turbo life is to be expected (that said, I did beat my stock turbo at 30psi for well over 100k miles). Something like the 360* thrust bearing may help hedge your bets fow awhile:
Powerstroke Turbo Rebuild Kit Upgrade 360 Thrust TP GTP 38 Ford 7 3L Diesel | eBay

I ran in 60tow 98% of the time - because it never smoked no matter what I did to it. The tune that dynoed 324HP would blow a puff smoke when taking off hard and downshifting - but rolling into the throttle would break the tires loose without ever smoking at all.

FWIW, my 38R was 'laggy' compared to stock turbo with the crap tooning I used to have.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DHamSTER View Post
I'm still thinking about doing the 1.0 housing, Riffraff ported housing, and Riffraff 6/6 wheel. The ported housing is what I can't decide on because it does the same thing the new wheel would do.
With a rebuild kit, you are 3/4's of the way to a 38R with this build (not that I recommend that) and you still have to fix the up-pipes. And you still haven't gained any significant performance. Lots of money for a minor bench-HP gain at best. Not what I'd expect from a guy who started out asking about $50...

Quote:
Originally Posted by DHamSTER View Post
Are you talking about my build?


Everyone who drove my X (including several people here) always commented about how quiet it was in the cab. Nobody ever says that about a ported housing or any of the newfangled wheels popping up every few weeks these days. Not sure if it matters to you, but I towed my 12k lb Toy Hauler almost 30k miles in 2yrs - you can't give me a quiet enough cab after 12-14hrs on the road!

Listen, I'm not trying to **** you off or even change your mind. Hopefully my babbling and limited experience has just helped ya decide what you wanted to do is what ya REALLY wanna do.

I know someone who went from stock to 1.0 housing with stock injectors, maybe that's the guy you want to hear from.
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  #44  
Old 10-22-2013, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkySkiJason View Post
You will not see much over 30psi with stock sticks anyway. Boost isn't the problem. Turbo life suffers from drive pressure exceeding boost pressure. If you plan on running tunes and using a stock turbo, a short turbo life is to be expected (that said, I did beat my stock turbo at 30psi for well over 100k miles). Something like the 360* thrust bearing may help hedge your bets fow awhile:
Powerstroke Turbo Rebuild Kit Upgrade 360 Thrust TP GTP 38 Ford 7 3L Diesel | eBay

I ran in 60tow 98% of the time - because it never smoked no matter what I did to it. The tune that dynoed 324HP would blow a puff smoke when taking off hard and downshifting - but rolling into the throttle would break the tires loose without ever smoking at all.

FWIW, my 38R was 'laggy' compared to stock turbo with the crap tooning I used to have.



With a rebuild kit, you are 3/4's of the way to a 38R with this build (not that I recommend that) and you still have to fix the up-pipes. And you still haven't gained any significant performance. Lots of money for a minor bench-HP gain at best. Not what I'd expect from a guy who started out asking about $50...





Everyone who drove my X (including several people here) always commented about how quiet it was in the cab. Nobody ever says that about a ported housing or any of the newfangled wheels popping up every few weeks these days. Not sure if it matters to you, but I towed Toy Hauler almost 30k miles in 2yrs - you can't give me a quiet enough cab after 12-14hrs on the road!

Listen, I'm not trying to **** you off or even change your mind. Hopefully my babbling and limited experience has just helped ya decide what you wanted to do is what ya REALLY wanna do.

I know someone who went from stock to 1.0 housing with stock injectors, maybe that's the guy you want to hear from.
Oh you aren't pissing me off, you actually have something intelligent to say. Thank you for the option.

You talked about drive pressure and turbo life. The 1.0 reduces drive pressure but it also shortens the life of a stock turbo?
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  #45  
Old 10-22-2013, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHamSTER View Post
Oh you aren't pissing me off, you actually have something intelligent to say. Thank you for the option.

You talked about drive pressure and turbo life. The 1.0 reduces drive pressure but it also shortens the life of a stock turbo?
Thanks, I have successfully generated that illusion before!!

Excessive drive pressure is generated by cranking up the fuel to get that 30psi. The larger housing will reduce drive pressure, but does nothing to 'move more air'. That's why Jim said:

Quote:
Van turbo fixes both of theses issues. .. won't over boost it with stock injectors so non wastegated is great and gives you more range to use the full potential of a stock injector
The van turbine wheel has a larger exducer, so it can move more air - AND it has a larger AR housing which reduces drive pressure, helping to compensate for the extra fuel you can put in with tuning.

This IS the cheap turbo upgrade and unless you do what Jim described and use the larger compressor wheel from a 38R - the only economical way to get more out of a 'stock' turbo.

Ultimately, 30psi is out of the map for these turbos anyway. We are just doing some of this stuff to keep them alive longer.
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Old 10-22-2013, 05:22 PM
 
 
 
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