1997 6.8L Repower Advice
#1
1997 6.8L Repower Advice
Need some help to rescue my new-to-me stranded RV which I just bought this past Saturday.
I have some mechanical and engine replacement knowledge since my son and I put a crate engine in his Jeep. This is my first Ford project and I haven't yet found the online resources other than this site.
Just bought a small RV with a V10 with 142,000 miles. During transport, it threw a rod through the block after 400 miles. Need to quickly find and replace the engine as it is still 600 miles from home.
This work will be done by a mechanic in Indiana (not me) so install time is a factor in my decision. Prior to buying I read about the V10, both the good, the bad, and later improvements (30v.)
Two questions:
1. Buy a Rebuild (leaning this way) or install a Used motor? If crate we were thinking through autozone or advance auto for warranty reasons. Other suggestions?
2. Since it is a '97, should I replace with something newer to avoid some of the early V10 issues with sparkplugs, etc. I was thinking up to a '99 should be a direct swap. What about a 2001 or newer? Do you need to modify much? I figured the electrical probably starts changing.
Thought some of you can assist me in my decision.
Kind regards,
Bill
I have some mechanical and engine replacement knowledge since my son and I put a crate engine in his Jeep. This is my first Ford project and I haven't yet found the online resources other than this site.
Just bought a small RV with a V10 with 142,000 miles. During transport, it threw a rod through the block after 400 miles. Need to quickly find and replace the engine as it is still 600 miles from home.
This work will be done by a mechanic in Indiana (not me) so install time is a factor in my decision. Prior to buying I read about the V10, both the good, the bad, and later improvements (30v.)
Two questions:
1. Buy a Rebuild (leaning this way) or install a Used motor? If crate we were thinking through autozone or advance auto for warranty reasons. Other suggestions?
2. Since it is a '97, should I replace with something newer to avoid some of the early V10 issues with sparkplugs, etc. I was thinking up to a '99 should be a direct swap. What about a 2001 or newer? Do you need to modify much? I figured the electrical probably starts changing.
Thought some of you can assist me in my decision.
Kind regards,
Bill
#2
If it threw a rod through the block your core may not be useable therefore you end up paying the core charge. That would make a used engine even more cost effective if you can find one.
The 2000-2004 6.8l are PI engines vs your non-PI engine (PI=Performance Improved) You gain more hp and a more tq (35hp 15tq) along with better breathing up top. Engine will be a direct replacement however I would get the pcm with the new engine to make life easier.
Ideally the 2004 engine would be the most ideal to that it will have the extra thread length in the spark plug hole. Not all 2003 MY engines have the extra thread length.(earlier production dates)
The 2000-2004 6.8l are PI engines vs your non-PI engine (PI=Performance Improved) You gain more hp and a more tq (35hp 15tq) along with better breathing up top. Engine will be a direct replacement however I would get the pcm with the new engine to make life easier.
Ideally the 2004 engine would be the most ideal to that it will have the extra thread length in the spark plug hole. Not all 2003 MY engines have the extra thread length.(earlier production dates)
#4
When I was leaning towards replacing a tired gas motor Ford had a great deal on their own re-man'd engines. Comparing them to Jasper et al I would have gone the Ford route for a lot of reasons.
While many of the horror stories we hear and write about overall that year modular engine is quite sound, worthy of dropping a newer version of it in place. IF the updated PI heads are compatible with your ECM etc it would be a nice upgrade especially on your RV.
Overall though I'm in complete agreement with DKF and not just because he's got a great avatar. He speaks the truth too!
While many of the horror stories we hear and write about overall that year modular engine is quite sound, worthy of dropping a newer version of it in place. IF the updated PI heads are compatible with your ECM etc it would be a nice upgrade especially on your RV.
Overall though I'm in complete agreement with DKF and not just because he's got a great avatar. He speaks the truth too!
#5
Thing is a lot of the pre 2000 6.8l came with EGR. But some post 2000s came with EGR also depending on state. If the engine you get has no EGR but you get a used PCM for an EGR truck you will get DTCs from the lack of EGR. Then you would have to get ahold of someone like 5 Star tuning to disable the EGR. Among other things. Though having a good tune is a good thing on these engines/transmissions.
#6
First, have the mechanic check if it even HAS EGR - a '97 motorhome chassis w/V10 has to be an E-series, E450 to be exact. It might be over the weight limit. Or not. Ford may have just produced the one EGR version, don't know.
2003+ PI-head engines had the longer spark plug threads. You might want to check if the engine remanufacturer put sparkplug inserts in the heads before you go nuts.
Changing to a PI-head engine is somewhat of a pain. If it was a DIY project, I would say go for it, but find a tranny to go with it - the updated 4R100 past, say, 2001, is decently bullet-proof as 4R100's go
And, get the newer PCM, and wiring harness. AND - most importantly, get everything from an E-series. NOT an F-series.
Any chance you can get it transported the last 600 miles and do it yourself?
2003+ PI-head engines had the longer spark plug threads. You might want to check if the engine remanufacturer put sparkplug inserts in the heads before you go nuts.
Changing to a PI-head engine is somewhat of a pain. If it was a DIY project, I would say go for it, but find a tranny to go with it - the updated 4R100 past, say, 2001, is decently bullet-proof as 4R100's go
And, get the newer PCM, and wiring harness. AND - most importantly, get everything from an E-series. NOT an F-series.
Any chance you can get it transported the last 600 miles and do it yourself?
#7
Thank you all for the input, and we have made a decision.
Since the RV is stranded in Indiana time is of the essence. BTW - It is a 1997 Chinook Concourse 21' on a E350 DRW chassis.
We have ordered a 1998 V10 Crate rebuild from Autozone. My installer was able to get them to accept the core as-is.
I checked into the Ford rebuild but couldn't see value in the 1/3 extra price.
We decided to stay in our year range for the sake eliminating anything that could take us more time. It's a 7-10 day delivery of the new engine so they have begin to remove the old engine and prepare the engine bay.
I will let you all know the outcome of the install. It should be great.
Cheers,
Bill
Since the RV is stranded in Indiana time is of the essence. BTW - It is a 1997 Chinook Concourse 21' on a E350 DRW chassis.
We have ordered a 1998 V10 Crate rebuild from Autozone. My installer was able to get them to accept the core as-is.
I checked into the Ford rebuild but couldn't see value in the 1/3 extra price.
We decided to stay in our year range for the sake eliminating anything that could take us more time. It's a 7-10 day delivery of the new engine so they have begin to remove the old engine and prepare the engine bay.
I will let you all know the outcome of the install. It should be great.
Cheers,
Bill
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#8
BTW - I started a tumblr blog about finding, buying, transporting the RV, the breakdown, etc. I am now reporting on the rebuild decisions and steps.
Just posted about the Bilstein B6 Hd shocks, will post about finding out if our V10 had an EGR, etc.
My mechanic is sending me photos of progress that may be of interest to some.
Chinook Concourse
The link to specs of my rig are on the right margin. I'll be updating this with the changes, as I go.
Cheers,
Bill
Richmond, VA
Just posted about the Bilstein B6 Hd shocks, will post about finding out if our V10 had an EGR, etc.
My mechanic is sending me photos of progress that may be of interest to some.
Chinook Concourse
The link to specs of my rig are on the right margin. I'll be updating this with the changes, as I go.
Cheers,
Bill
Richmond, VA
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