Ok, so new O2 sensor in right? If so, have you disconnected the battery for minium of 10 minutes, then reconnected battery and drove for at least 15 minutes to allow the PCM to learn new parameters?

Fuel psi sounds good, but 28 could be the "goose" of the blades opening, vacuum drop momentarily, and then will increase. I had a similar thread on this. Did the fuel PSI increase after the initial 28 when throttle increased?

Have you checked for codes again after letting the PCM learn new strategies?

 

No i Have not put the new o2 sensor yet i did not wanna drive it with the hole in the exhaust where it goes just got the old one out and I think it hasnt been changed in a while because it had the ford emblem stamped on the old o2 sensor. And I gaurntee You the guy that had it before me used motorcraft parts bro and The fuel pressure did not increase after the initial goose it stayed there what do you think that means?

 

Ok, gotta put the new O2 in and drive. Without that sensor, it throws everything off, and runs in limp mode. Get it in, drive and report back your results.

That's good to know he used Motorcraft. And for what its worth, I removed the original Ford O2 sensor on my 1990 that was 19 years old, with only 56,000 original miles.

 

Ok So what do you think about the fuel pressure not increasing

 

I can't answer that as I don't if the fuel psi reading was skewed because of the lack of an O2 sensor signal. Fuel PSI may vary due to the injector pulse width being narrowed or widened due to no O2 sensor signal.

 

Alright no biggie I got the new o2 sensor tonight will install tomorrow with battery disconnected, while I do it that should be long enough for the computer to reset, I need to replace the battery terminals to any way then i'll drive it down the highway for at least 10-20 miles Then come home and check fuel psi again and let you know tomorrow cool oh yeah check for codes again, also. Thanks For all your help man, I mean it Scrobbie

 

Ok timbersteel I installed the new sensor today wiyh the battery disconnected the code 42 went away so thats a plus but the hunting rolling idle did not unfortunately, but im still getting the code where my egr valve is below closed limt cant remember the number, This is with koeo what do yo think this could be maybe the egr vacuum solenoid, and i'm going to pull the TB off tomorrw to check the Throttle Plates. if they are worn and I can see Daylight i'm going to have a look see at our u pull it yard and I'm going to see if they have 1 in better shape. Because i cant afford a brand new one Any other suggestions? Thanks Scrobbie.

 

Scroll down to "Test procedure" section, tells you how to trouble shoot EGR issues.

EGR/EVP Codes 31/32/33/34/35 Troubleshooting

 

+1 what danr1 said.

Did you try the trick with the PCV valve and a sheet of paper?

Also, when your idle is rising and falling, if you gently start to open the throttle plates with throttle linkage, does it seem to get better? My thought is maybe the p.o. adjusted the throttle stop screw on the TB, which if it was molested with, it may just need to be adjusted correctly. This screw has been tampered by many ford owners when there was either to high or too low of idle. You can tell if the throttle stop screw has been tampered with if the orange or yellow threadlock paint has been broken or cleaned off.

Just checking too if you drove for at least 5 miles with varying throttle of 55mph.

 

no on the pcv valve yet and i pretty much know its tha the throttle stop screw has been messed with because it has a screw instead of the oem and i did check the voltgage on the tps it was like at almost 2 volts so i adjusted it back to just under 1 volt. I think its around .97 And yes I drove it 25 miles at 55 more than 5 miles brother and yes it does get better when you throttle it slowly but its probably around 1000-1500 rpms before it quits. Just let me know what you think Thanks again Scrobbie.

 

Thanks for the info I will check it thanks danr 1

 

Hello again I checked the pcv valve witha sheet of paper, the paper sucked right to the bottom and the idle dropped. so what do you think? and the ball indide went to the top of the valve. Then the next thing I wanted to ask you was, I took the EGR vacuum solenoid off and i can blow through both ports with a vacuum hose connected to them, I checked them seprately the top port I blew through easilly the bottom port not as easy but still blew through it does tha tell you anything. Let me know thanks scrobbie

 

Been having problems with FTE not loading today...

Ok, did the PCV trick and idle dropped down, did the Rolling/Surging idle clear up?

 

You can't determine if the EGR Vacuum solenoid is bad by checking it the way you described.

 

Yes the idle did trick and but the rolling surging idle did not. And i Read on the internet on ehow that if you were able to blow through either one of the ports it was bad also it said another way you could check it was you could take a fuse holder and another jumper wire on the solenoid and touch it to the battery terminal and if u could hear a click it was working properly if not that it was bad. What do you think?