Bubba, Zombieslayer, & ALL OTHER SUBSCRIBERS,
First-off I want to thank Bubba for responding to my "private message" on this topic (I originally sent this to you as my response but then thought the info. I acquired needs to be out there for anyone that comes to the same dilemma I was in).... I was able to go to the local JY Friday and after gathering what knowledge I could, I decided that once I dropped their console and looked at the compass, lights, and wiring harness that connects the two I would know whether I needed to get the lights or not. I found a '97 Windstar and four Explorer's that had the overhead console. I got the Windstar and two Explorer temp sensor's, compass, and lights. They were all the newer compasses that don't have the one large plug in from the lights but rather they have a smaller plug as well as two more flat squares that clip into the opposite ends of the rear of the compass. I went out of town, for the weekend immediately after getting back from the yard. When I got home this afternoon, I plugged in each of the three and all the lights worked as well as the compasses all immediately went to 59 degrees Farenh. and my in shop therm. also showed 59 degrees... It is important to note here that I did not have to swap the sensors for any of them. Now, I don't know if the sensor issue should be noticed immediately or if it is something that will occur over time (i.e., incorrect reading, etc...) but not only did it give the correct read-out but I also did not have to re-calibrate either!!!! I can't believe that once I was able to look at the backs of the Bronco and Explorer and noticed the plug differences, that it was as simple as simply swapping the two! Anyway, thanks again for responding and hopefully this info. will assist others (No splicing, etc.., simply swap both pieces, without having to swap the sensors). Dean

 

Yes I do. How do you mount an overhead if there isn't one already there? Drill into the roof?

 

Well for the overhead console, there is a metal bracket that it bolts into. I believe your ceiling should have tabs/holes in place for the overhead console bracket.

Here is a picture of what the bracket looks like:
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTQ2OFg4MjY=/z/~eMAAOxyJX1TDPz8/$_35.JPG

I don't have a picture of mine so I had to grab one from online. Anyways, I think there are three or four screw holes for the bracket to the ceiling. If there are not pre drilled holes, it's not too hard to drill them in, just be careful and go slow so you don't drill through your roof.

The headliner needs to come completely off by the way to do this. Also, you will need to take the front metal trim piece off near the windshield, and A-frame drivers side trim piece. This is where the overhead console wiring harness is routed. Your truck will have a plug for the wiring harness around near the parking brake pedal. You may have to take the kick panel trim piece off to access it, or it may be accessible from closer towards the firewall near the mounting point for the parking brake pedal. I don't quite remember where, but there is definitely an empty plug for the harness around somewhere.

You will need to grab a wiring harness, temperature sensor, the console, and mounting bracket. You may also want to buy some extra wiring to run it from the temperature sensor to the console/wiring harness.

The temperature sensor should be mounted in the front near the bottom side of the radiator, near the back side of the front bumper.

Once you have the console wiring harness, just plug it directly into the plug, and run it up behind the trim pieces to where you mounted the overhead console mount. With that wiring in place, you can run your wires from the temp sensor to the wiring harness. I ran my wires on the drivers side fender, then through the door, and then spliced them into the proper wires for the overhead console.

Apart from the wiring and mounting, you will need to cut a hole in the headliner for the wiring harness to stick through and also so the new dome lights. You don't want to have the dome lights pressed up against the headliner material, because it's a fire hazard. I didn't cut out enough before when I used an explorer console, and when I took my headliner down to swap to the bronco console, the area with the lights was black and charred. The lights can get pretty hot there so like I said, make sure to cut out a section where the lights are too.

Once the wiring is in place, and the headliner cut, you can put the headliner back up, then the trim pieces back on. With those in place, you can then plug in your overhead console to the wiring harness and snap it into the mount. There might be one screw that holds the console to the mount, but it mostly snaps into place, which makes removal and installation rather easy.



Hopefully this post made sense because I'm kinda tired and it's kinda later here.

If you want more clarification on what to do and are serious about putting in a console, I can make you a more detailed write up with pictures sometime soonish if my ramblings here don't make much sense!



And anyways, back to the reason I asked if you have lighted sun visors with mirrors, I as just verifying because if you have the wiring for that, then the wiring for the powered rear view mirror should be in place so it's an easy swap like I mentioned if you wanted to go that route.

 

Thanks Bubba This is something I will look into during summer break.

 

So this guy I sort of know has a wrecked `95 explorer with one of those fancy rear view mirrors. He gave it to me, I plugged it in, and .... nothing. Of course it's only just now dark, but what is supposed to happen when I push the button? It looks like the button itself lights up?

 

I believe when the button is lit up, the mirror is "on" and when it's not, the mirror is "off". You won't initially notice much at all. What it does is dim any lights shining in the mirror towards your face. So if you are driving at night, and somebody has their brights on, the mirror will dim itself so that the light shining into your face isn't nearly as bright. I believe it dims the mirror by adding a greenish hue to it. The color change isn't very noticeable at all, but the dimness makes a big difference when someone has bright lights behind you.

During the day, or early afternoon (basically anytime a lot of light is getting into the sensor on the mirror from all around), you won't notice anything from the mirror at all.

The button itself will have a green light to it. It's not a very bright light at all, but it does partially light up when pressed.

 

Ok so I just came in from a night drive and the light on the mirror doesn't light up, and I saw no difference when the button was pushed in or let out. My spring break (next week) projects include: upgrading to HID lights, doing the heater core a/c bypass, and changing out my plugs, wires, rotor, and cap (still haven't done that )). So this I'll probably put off until summer but I'll look into getting a complete console every chance I get

 

I took another look at the mirror and harness since the guy I got the mirror from insisted that it worked. Low and behold something was gunked up in the connector. Cleaned it out and the mirror works just fine

 

FYI on Chapman Security Unit

After deciding that further "work" on trying to straighten out what the PO had done with the OEM security, I hooked the Chapman unit back up. Lo and Behold - now my interior lighting stays on after I shut the Bronco down AND the door locks lock as I crank the engine up and unlock when I shut it down!! Obviously, the unit was reset when I unplugged it.

Now it would be nice if Chapman was still in business and I could purchase a remote (and directions on how to set it up)

 

O.K. fellow readers Just plugged in the overhead console module with the lights and compass/temperature functions. and they all work! I found it out there on EBay from Premier Multi-Mkt. Inc. [url=http://nfpr.com]. I believe that he told me it came out of a newer model Ford.