So far his truck has had the ECM rebuilt, new computer on the dizzy and new starter solenoid by some shop.

They didn't time the distributor correctly when reinstalling it so I fixed that (10 deg Advanced while warm with SPOUT disconnected), new EGR valve, under carriage pressure wash, chassis greased, welded a broken exhaust hanger, new brake master cylinder, fixed radio wiring, removed a TON of extra wires (a lot of which was melted) including 4 sets of trailer leads.

Shortly after he got new tires, I believe 35 X 12.5 X 16.5R

Now what's wrong?

 

I'll sub to it. Even if I can't help. Maybe I'll learn me something.

 

So my new probs are....

I had to run to NorthPoint Range in Arlington yesterday, which was a good distance from where I live. Everything ran awesome. Pretty much the first time I have run it any long distance since OFJ hooked it up. On my way back at a redlight it sputtered off the line. Well, let me put this disclaimer in which I have been dealing with... when i run somewhere, it has a problem starting back up. My guess was it was having a problem with the fuel boil off. But, WTF do I know. I know that all of the sudden COLD OR HOT, it sputters and dies. Doesnt matter if it has sat for hours and hours or just a few minutes, it acts the same. Damnit it!

 

Just went to go start it again and no go. Maybe the fuel pump decided it only wants to work sometimes? Who knows, but thats all I can speculate.

 

I wonder if these have issues with vapor lock? Being cold or hot though, doesn't seem likely. When it happens could you test the fuel pressure? All you have to do is find the Shrader valve on the fuel rail and push a screw driver on it or something similar. If the fuel sprays out its got pressure, if it kinda dribbles out then you've got an issue down the line.


Of course this would all be redundant if it's a diesel, my memory is bad this early in the morning .

 

Fuel boiling is a rare problem and pretty much exclusive to carburetors, You have injection and you're not running a super high pressure aftermarket pump rated for 1000HP so I highly doubt that is the issue. Your truck is suppose to have 35 Psi at the fuel rail at idle, I made a tester for it before and it checked out fine, I can check it again.

Didn't you say that shop replaced the Fuel Pump Relay?

And I was able to fix my code reader so I can give that a shot again.

When, if ever, was the fuel filter replaced? does it have the same issue on both tanks?

 

I kinda figured vapor lock was a long shot but it doesn't hurt to ask. Also, on the topic of bad suggestions, where is the inertia switch located on those? If it's on the passenger floor pike my 88 ranger was, maybe when it happens try pushing the reset button and see if that works. With mine I had the heater core leaking on it causing it to short and not start. It's a long shot but worth asking I suppose.

 

I'm in Olympia all day so will be researching things trying to get ahead of the issue.

 

OFJ...... the shop said they replaced the fuel relay and I put in a new filter last month. FYI, it does it on both tanks if that helps any...

GJ..... I will give that a check to see if that could be the prob... thanks for the ideas of other stuff to look for...

 

Racking my brain, the last few days have been non stop.

 

You know with two tanks if you don't have pumps in each tank and
only have the frame mounted one you could vapor lock (LONG SHOT).
Then there could be also crap in the 3way valve. Pressure test is in order.

Sean

 

That's the thing that has me hung up on it being a fuel issue, I pressure tested it when I did the rest of the work a couple weeks ago and it had 34 psi at idle, right within spec, could be an intermitant issue but seems highly unlikely.

 

Here is another long shot (bear with me) what about a loose wire on the fuel pump or switch? Maybe the vibration from it running or idling causes it to loose connection sometimes.