Can a D50 TTB be swapped in place of a TTB D44? Goodness, this would have to be the cheapest upgrade ever with them being plentiful.

 

Not really. other than a little bigger bearings and ball joints there is no benefit from doing the swap. it is still a **** pore design in a 3/4 ton truck

 

Just to be clear, we're talking about the steering u's at the knuckles, right? Parts catalogs list them as a different number than the 44. Bronc. Graveyard lists a 5-760x for the 44 and a 1350 series for the 50. They don't specify middle or steering, but from doing a few smaller TTB's I find all the joints to be the same size across the axle.

 

I did some digging and I was mistaken. The D50 TTBs DO use the larger 1350 outer joints, however they are not interchangeable with the D44 knuckles. You would have to do alot of fab work to make it fit.

The D44s use the 760x for the outers and inner joint.

The D50s use the 1350 for the outers and inner joint.

From personal experience I know the D50 third member and inner stub assembly are 100% bolt in for the D44 TTB.

 

I have yet to attempt the "cut and turn" modification, but if I'm going to go that far, why not look at options? If I could make the proper jig, it shouldn't be too much more trouble to get 50 knuckles on a 44 arm.

I thought this up because I wanted to get the cheapest, strongest setup I could for a trail rig using TTB.

 

Surprised no one has brought up the fact that the kingpins on the D60 are far superior to ball joints in both strength and longevity.

 

Wish mine had king pins. But the ball joints have been fine so far.

 

I would rather have the 95-97 Ball joint axle. Bigger brakes , bolt on calipers and better turning radius than a king Pin axle.

I don't go 4 wheeling with my trucks with monster tires so I can get 100k out of a set of ball joints

 

Really.... I've been searching and searching for pics or even someone saying that they actually did this. I've read tons where people claim that it fits, bet no one that has actually done it.
So you did it, really??? I really want to keep my coils, but wanted to upgrade the front end a little. I plan on going to 8 bolt and bigger brakes soon, but also wanted an easy gear change. I have 410 d50 sitting here, so when I put the rear axle in it will be an easy swap. Nifty. Just need to figure out short side stub to outer stub. Hmmm.

 

I have done this, my old trail rig was regeared on the cheap with an old 4.10 D50 third member. Just reuse the D44 shafts, they're the same size and spline count.

 

How is the turning radius better on a BJ version?

 

Its simple, the wheels turn further

 

Wow really?

But why would they turn any further on a BJ then a KP?

 

My K.P. turns really sharp. Not as good as the T.T.B. I took off. Am interested in the turning radius the B.P. also.

 

The Bronco in your sig with the 42 Iroks? Aren't the tires a bigger issue on steering angle then the axle? I know mine are with my 37s, they contact the leafs. Even if you did some fancy front suspension still got a radius arm or link?

I've never owned a BJ 60, but I do have a D50 TTB and 2 KP 60 trucks. Here's what I've noticed. It seams my front track is a little wider then my rear on the KP60 trucks but I haven't noticed this on anything but KP trucks. A wider axle can turn sharper cause the pivot is further from the spring. Steering box/pitman arm travel limits the steering angle if my tires weren't a factor. With pitman arm disconnected then the stop is the limiter but it can be removed. The true limit of steering angle is the U-joint, both use the same joint and aftermarket/modified joints/axles help both turn sharper. My 89 CCLB with a KP60 and 37s turns sharper then my brothers 01 ECLB with BJ60 and 33s.