I'm not trying to spoil ones fun I'm 34 I have been there so I know. Just be safe is all .

 

So I drove the F250 for the first time in a few weeks this past weekend. I am noticing that some times the steering wheel doesn't completely want to go back to center while driving. It just hangs up a little bit and it doesn't do it all the time. Thoughts on what it may be? Here are the facts:

1. Original steering Stabilizer is still on it.
2. It seemed to still do it with hubs locked and unlocked.
3. There is not whine from the power steering pump.
4. There is a small fluid leak in my steering box. It is coming out the spline shaft for the pitman arm.
5. I just greased all tie rod joints and my upper ball joints. Lower ball joints do not have a grease fitting.

I had a similar problem on my Ranger and the culprit was the outer u-joints. I replaced everything in the steering system before I figured it out. I was going to try and take a more direct approach here, especially since the parts are a little more pricey.


In other news, I helped a buddy install a light bar on his quad. He did not take any measurements, or figure any wiring out. He bought a 40" light bar and said its going on my quad.

After some brainstorming, we made some plate brackets for the supports and I re-purposed the 30A power steering circuit for this light bar (which draws 25 amps....). Added a 30 amp toggle switch to the console and we were all good. So what good would this bee without pictures....







The only downside here is this bar draws more power than his quad generates at full power... so if he is using it, he is draining his battery

 

Damn that light bar is huge on the 4 wheeler! Nice looking bike though! I still want the new Honda Rubicon but might be on hold for little bit.

 

wizkid- what is the current mileage on your truck? Are the U-joints original?

Local driveshaft shop said they last about 80k miles, If you are going to replace them it would be a good time to replace the seals as well.

 

I know the feeling. This Polaris is a basic model, but it is nice. It does have one feature that drives me nuts.... the battery sits at the bottom of the frame on the belly pan. It goes under water before the tires are even submerged. Mine is up high underneath my seat in its own molded box in the rear plastic with the electronics. I don't like to get my electronics wet unless I have to.

I have 115k and I'd bet they are original. I was looking at some Moog greasable joints on RockAuto for $30 each. I'll probably replace these in the coming weeks. Its another opportunity to grease my wheel bearings again and maybe get my rotors cut. What is the deal with these axle seals? I was looking at them when I was greasing my ball joints. Do they just fall apart?

 

There is two seals, one for the knuckle and one for the axle shaft. I personally went with Spicer like Jason did and they are suppose to last 80k with greasable or non-greasable. The key is the greasable needs greased every 3k, personally I would rather have one less failure point.

 

What brand of seals did you use?

I was looking at the Spicer. To be honest, I have no problem greasing them every 3k. I'd much rather know that they are getting fresh grease. After my findings with the dry unit bearings on my truck when I bought it... I'll take grease. I do not put a lot of miles on it, so 3k would only be 2 or 3 times a year.

 

I went with Ford seals. Purchased the U-joints off rock auto. Did you fill the unit-bearing with grease? @WE3ZS Mentioned a dry bearing should take around 22 pumps.

 

Ok. I'll see if it passes inspection as is and then deal with it.

Yes, I have done it once each year with about 10k miles in between. The first time I did it, they did take a TON of grease, but it completely changed the feel of the bearing. You could tell just how thirsty it was for some lubrication. Only needed a few pumps the second time. That RiffRaff fitting is worth every penny.... they only thing I wish was difference about those bearings is that they had a tapped hole and plug on the bottom so you could pump new grease in the top and the old out the bottom.

 

Yup, the RiffRaff zerk is nice. I believe the design of the bearings allows the grease to hit the needle bearing. Once the unit-bearing starts to separate though is when the grease starts to go everywhere.

 

I am not looking forward to that day. Those unit bearings are expensive.....

 

Timken through rock-auto were the cheapest when I replaced one. Otherwise it's possible to just replace the needle bearing which I did on the passenger side withough issue over 5k miles ago.

 

When I do these joints, I am going to replace both needle bearings. For $6 each, why not. I will probably avoid the ball joints if they are still in good shape.

 

Well the F250 failed inspection. One of the front brake pads had material flaking off. I ordered all the parts to do the pads and u-joints for this coming weekend. Feels like spring in here as the truck work begins....

 

All three seals as well?