So I need all four ball joints on my 06 F250... Shop says six hours labor at $88/hour. Does that sound fair? Also, tips for doing it myself? What tools would I need? Thanks!

 

From the estimates I have gotten 3 hrs per side is right.

I found a guy that will do the job for 200, if I provide all the parts!

 

$88 per hour? Is that Canadian? Yikes!

 

Nope,that's US. So if I do it myself,what tools do I need and any tips?

 

<p>Mainly basic tools but you will need a ball joint press that you can get from AutoZone or oreilys where you leave a deposit and you get the deposit back when you return the tool. A couple of long pry bars, a 5 pound or so hammer and an impact wrench.</p>

 

Tools:
Torque wrench, good pair of snap ring pliers, OTC 6697 Knuckle seal driver, Ball joint press with adapters. A good 13/16 socket, I used an impact socket.

A good tip would be get the correct snap ring pliers.

It's not really a hard job. A few trouble spots for me the DIY, removing the snap ring, removing the knuckle seal, installing the updated axle to axle tube dust seal.

There is a sequence for torquing the ball joints. Torque bottom 1/2 way, then torque top, then torque bottom. I have the specs if you need them.

It took me 1 1/2 days to do driver side, and 1 day to do pass. side. It was my first time doing this and I took my time.

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Wow... this will be my first time doing it also, so I should probably assume it'll be about like it was for you, Chuck. Definitely don't have that kind of time! Man, I was really hoping to avoid dropping another $775 on that truck! I just dropped $1100 for tires last week!

 

If it helps I did mine one side at a time. I do work slow but thorough. Also I had to hunt down a buddy to borrow the snap ring pliers. This is why it took a day and a half on the driver side.

Two weeks later I did the pass. side. It took a good day, and I knew what I was doing.

I hope I did not scare you out of it.

One thing to remember: If you have the push button 4x4 they are vacuum operated so you need to re-install the hub air tight. It's worth it to replace the o-ring seal and hub gasket, and possibly the knuckle seal.

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If I had just dropped $1100 on new tires, I would be doing my best to replace both sides the same day and taking the truck the following day to get an alignment. Someone posted on here a few days ago about ball joints and they said it cost them $600 in tools and parts to do both sides and then they paid for an alignment. I'll have to find that post. But if so... you may come out better just paying to have it done? But if you plan on doing both your trucks, maybe this is a good time to learn and the next will be easier! Going to search for the post...

Here it is and I guess Blade says you don't have to do an alignment? hmmmm:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ll-joints.html

 

as long as the Alignment "Adjustment" is OK to start with

and the adjustment isn't Lost during repair


I have Aligned a few cars with a Good old tape measure and driving it

The first time I did it I must have adjusted it 20+ times LOL till I got it

A pretty good indicator is if you can drive down the road Straight without the steering wheel Cocked

Theres A lot of Toe adjustment in these But the Camber is very little if any OEM Parts (Sleeve) and when you torq the Ball Joint the Camber adjust goes to where it wants just about at least my 2003

 

The last Alignment I did my wife wrecked the car

Knocked the Front tire about Clean Off

In fact I finished taking it off with a SawZall LOL

But I Put it back into alignment in fact the Side the tire got knocked off ended up wearing the Tire out more even then the other side that had no damage. Each side was independent adjustment of one another Not like our trucks

 

FWIW, I just got new upper ball joints as part of an accident rebuild. The RWD truck had 150kmi on the originals, but still drove perfectly. After getting hit on the left front wheel and having the body repaired, it pulled to the right. The alignment shop said the ball joints were too worn. The body shop replaced them and it still pulled. They finally replaced the left wishbone and now it goes straight down the road.

How many miles are ball joints normally good for?

jack vines

 

Ball joints are good from anywhere from 50k to 100k+ depending on how you drive/use your truck.

To the OP, that quote sounds right. Anywhere from 500-1000 for parts and labor.

 

Well I have that dribble. Noise when I hit a bump I guess it's ball joints
? :/

 

4WD? If so you will NEED a half shaft seal installer. You are never gonna get it on there despite what others claim. I made my own because the OTC or factory tool is expensive. I made mine from steel plumbing pipe and a floor mount plate. I'll see if I can find a link.


Ford Super Duty Knuckle Seal Tool - AKA OTC 6695 | Superdutypsd.com