I know this issue has been discussed here several times..But I need to find a solution.
My Clutch is WAY to hard.. it is to a point, that i came home this evening after 20 min driving through some trafic, that i feel like i went to the Gym.. my left leg is sore...

The clutch has always been stiff, but last week, it felt like it gotten all the sudden really hard.. thats when i pushed my master cylinder out of the fire wall..
i installed a different used master cylinder, but now it even appears to be harder.. today it felt like it has gotten worse..

The clutch is very hard for the first couple inches of travel and then becomes lighter.. when you let loose, it pushes my knee back into my chest...

My questions :

is it clutch or cylinder related ? if cylinder, I am thinking of buying a pre-bled matched set ... preferable from Rockauto..

either one of those two :

More Information for RHINOPAC / WORLD CAR PS0713

More Information for BRUTE POWER / PERFECTION CLUTCH PF9005

the first one says for solid mass flywheel, heavy duty unit..



if i really need a clutch.. and mine still looks good, im looking at this one, (need to keep price down

More Information for LUK 07154


some additional info :
i greased already all points of the linkage and i have a single mass flywheel.

 

You may just have air in the system still. The best way to bleed these systems is to bench bleed it.

 

Bill,

i am pretty certain, that all air is out.
the clutch pedal is just very stiff and sometimes it feels like, it wants to lock up after a short travel,.. like it is binding..

I had my wife get into the truck and had her press it.. she had to pull on the steering wheel , to press the pedal.. and i looked underneath and everything appears to be normal.

 

Air in the system usually makes my pedal softer. I'm going to follow this thread, because after driving my car, it makes me used to that light clutch pedal and I wouldn't mind making the truck's pedal lighter. Maybe I'm just becoming a pansy. lol

 

Unhook the master cylinder push rod from the pedal assembly and then push the pedal and see if it's in the pedal assembly or in the hydraulic system. How did you bleed the system? It is very difficult to get the air out of these things. If it's not that, then you have a problem with the fork or the throw out bearing.

 

Bill,

thanks for the tip. i already unhooked the rod, and the pedal moves freely.

the throwout bearing moves freely on the shaft and the arm is not (yet) bend) . the swivel points for the arm are greased.

as for bleeding:
removed slave and filled with syrenge, moved back an forth until 100% full.
Filled master cylinder with line disconnected, until i get fluid out of the line connection after pumping.. then reconnect line and keep on filling and pumping until i get fluid at the bottom. Connect line to the slave while fluid runs out...

this had worked always... so far..

but now i do remember while i write this i noticed the first master would drain out the fluid, when you disconnect the line.. this second master cylinder only runs out, if you pump..

 

Take the slave loose from the trans case, and take the cap off the master cylinder. Slowly push the rod on the slave in by hand and it will push all the air bubbles up and out the master. Do it very slowly though. Have some one watch down in the master res. and see if they see bubbles the first time you do it. I bet there is still air in it. All the pumping of the pedal in the world will sometimes not get the air out. You have to push it up and out the master from the slave. I've done this with the whole system off and on the bench in the shop.

 

i have done it this way before as well..
but not on this truck.. i noticed, that in order to push the slave cylinder rod, i have to prop the rod against the frame or the transmission and push , using both hands pretty hard to bleed it..
not sure if that is supposed to be that way though..

btw, why would you think, that air would make the clutch pedal so hard , almost that you can’t push it? it is not soft at all with no play in it

 

I don't know what makes it hard, but I had one do the same thing. I'm not ruling out the possibility that you have a bad master or slave, just giving you something to try before you spend money on something you may not need.

 

Thanks Bill for the help.. Believe me, it is appreciated..at this point, money is the last thing, I want to keep throwing at the truck..

At this point, I do believe, that I ave either an issue with the cylinders, or with the clutch itself... But the clutch looked good, when I put it in.. It still has plenty of meat left on the disk and does grip hard .

I remembered that when I initially installed the used cylinders, that the slave cylinder had a resistant, half way in, when you bled it. It also at the beginning got stuck during bleeding half way in, until all air was out...

And then I noticed as mentioned before, that the first master would drain out, if you remove the line from it.. This second master does not bleed...

I am wondering now, if I just should go ahead and replace both or just the slave? What If the master has some sort of restriction .

 

I'd try bleeding it good the way I explained, and if that doesn't do it, I'd get the pre-bled system and change it all out.

 

Been reading on some other pages as well and some people point out , a worn clutch pedal bushing could cause some issues as well.. I do know, that my pedal has a little play on the bushing... I'm also using a copper bushing I made for my master cylinder rod..but used plenty of grease. I think I might be checking into two cylinders and new bushings... But I will try to bleed again first

 

What is your though of purchasing both cylinders from napa and use my own line... Just looking at costs.. Both cylinders are about 90.- together, the pre bled unit is 220

 

That would be fine if you get it all bled good.

 

Ok.. I believe I got it fixed...

My wife picked up today a new master and a slave from napa.. Also a new set of pedal box bushings. I got home at 5:30 and started working on tearing everything apart. Replaced the pedal box bushings and bled the new cylinders on my bench as good as possible. Installed it and tried it... Still have some air in... I just used my hand to push the pedal.. Was pretty easy with minimal resistant.. So I cranked the truck, meshed the clutch and put it in gear.... That clutch is so easy now
However it comes way at the bottom, so I will bleed it some more tomorrow if needed.

The biggest thing I noticed, was. That the master and slave said made in USA.
Also the slave was a larger diameter than the one I had...
My pedal box bushings were just wore without any metal damage.


Let's see how she does tomorrow on my way to work.. Maybe I'm lucky and I. Do not have to bleed again... Even though this new slave has a bleeder screw.. The old one did not


Thanks again for your help on here