The filter that came with the kit is a WIX filter, I was told if you run the orange extended life coolant which I do, this would cause the paper in the filter to get destroyed and will eventually ruin the coolant system. Is this true?

 

I know that ELC is not recommended for our trucks because of the seals. Just plain green coolant and sca is all that is recommended.

And thanks everyone for your responses. Should get the stuff this morning.

So are you saying that the filter that old woods posted is an sca charged filter? I know I need some it was starting to get a little weak.

 

Orange as in dexcool? Pink fleetcharge is what you really want.

 

^^^Or a good sca charged coolant like Aaron said.

 

no it is not pre charged. if you change the last number you get different levels of sca pre charged in the filter. the 24070 is just a filter.

 

yep, that's right. if you know you're low, though, its best to bring it up to proper levels with the liquid additive, then maintain it with the time-release filters. I haven't yet figured out which pre-charged filter is best for maintenance of our systems. it is possible to overcharge the system - which would cause excessive additive precipitation and water pump wear (though that would be mostly mitigated by the presence of the filter, I guess).

anyway, I started experimenting with the lowest concentration pre-charge filter on my old truck, but have to start over on the new truck.

also, interestingly enough, the one pre-charged filter I used was shorter in height than the non-charged one. so, if you install your system using a non-additive filter, you know you'll have enough room for one. If you install with a pre-charged filter, you may get stuck if you later want to go to the non-additive filter in the future...

 

Ok. That is great info. I think what I'll do is the initial run with the filter with no SCA, then when I run that for a couple thousand miles I'll get the SCA charged filter. I may just have to buy some additive in the mean time. But I don't want to put a SCA charged filter in and only run it for a short time. Might have to throw some additive in there untill then.

 

Does anyone happen to have the napa number for the sca liquid additive? It wasn't too low but I might need to add a little here shortly.

 

that's a good plan. most guys run the first filter for only ~1k miles, as that's when most of your crud will be caught (300k+ miles worth of if for you, right?). then, after that every oil change or two is probably more than enough.

and i'll take those pics of my setup and lunch for you today... nothing better than others have done, but a different perspective at least.

 

Yeah 360K! The coolant looks good and clean in the degas bottle. I think the water pump was done not too long before I bought it. I'm intrested to see just how much crap we are talking here. I'll have to test my coolant again to re-verify the sca level.

And yes Pics would be great! I love getting all the perspectives I can!

 

I dont know the PN for the Napa additive itself, but I have the test kit info.

DCA 4 requires a fleetguard test kit: CC2602A
Fleet Charge coolant is DCA 4.

DCA 2 requires a Napa test kit: FIL 4107

 

here you go:
I believe VC8 is Ford speak for DCA4 (which is cummins speak, right?)

not sure if the price is best above, but was most convenient for me to order from there.

 

Yes I have that test kit, thats what I used the first time I tested the coolant. Weather I have DCA 4 or DCA 2 is a whole other matter. I have no clue. I just know it checked out the last time it checked good, just one step below optimal. But it was by no means depleted. I'll test it again.

 

here the picture of my setup as promised - don't mind the unclipped wire ties :-)

the tricky part for me was making sure to get the inlet of the filter base on the correct heater hose. not rocket science, but takes some staring. basically, the one come out of the top of the water pump is the feed side of the heater core, so hook that up to the 'inlet' side of the filter base.

you can see the quarter-turn ball valve (McMaster PN above) after the T in that line. that valve can be used to meter or shut off flow to the heater core and direct flow fully through the filter. right now I have it set to half-flow to the heater, half to the filter (since its been getting cold here lately).

I put another valve at the filter inlet in case I decide I want full heat and no filtering down the road, but that's probably not necessary - these heaters on these trucks are plenty HOT!

and as you can see the hinge spring gets close to the filter with the hood closed in this position, but there's no evidence of rubbing on the filter or the spring...

 

Thanks JP! I'm still assembling supplies. Hoping to get this done in the next few days. I was scouting possible mounting locations today. Still undecided there. Somewhere on the right side of the engine bay. We will see. I'll post my own pics when I'm done.