A buddy of mine, dropped off his 1995 E-350 7.3 PSD van at my house for repair.

It was delivered by tow truck, since it didn't start.

I changed the starter, since it had an internal short circuit.
I found some burned wires in the connector to the left rear glow plug/injector harness.

Soldered in some new wires and tried to salvage the rest of the connector.
Hopefully that will work.
Started the van, it smokes grey/white, but no ignition.
Unplugged the ICP and it started after a while, no more smoke, but it runs really rough, knocking sound from rear left, and it sounds like it runs slow (Compared to my own '95 van).
When trying to increase the rpms, it increases slowly.
When I shut it down, I can't hear the turbo winding down sound, like I have on my own van.
Fuel pressure was 50 psi at idle.
ICP was reconnected when running, but no difference.

Any ideas as where to begin searching, testing?

And one more thing, my crapy code reader doesn't show anything when the enigine is running (Black screen). It only works when the ignition is on, but no codes are stored or pending.

 

If the knocking sound is coming from the same corner that you repaired the wiring on, I thing there is a good chance that the repair didn't work completely. Did you look inside the VC at the harness or connectors in there to see what shape they're in?

If your code reader is a cheapie, it likely won't communicate with the Powerstroke PCM as it isn't fully OBDII compliant and generally takes a pretty high end scanner to be able to do diagnostics.

And a little back story might help too. What happened when the van stopped?

I hope this gives you a place to start with this. If not, it will serve as a bump until the rest of the experts get here. Good luck with it!

 

No back story, as it turns out he purchased it like it sits.

I didn't open the valve covers because the pins looked ok, only the end of the connector and some of the wires where burnt.
I did find oil inside the connector, cleaned it thoroughly before connecting it.
Looks like I need to open the covers tomorrow.

My code reader is identical to the one advertised on top of this forum (scan gauge II), just a different name on it.
Don't know which one I should get, as I have to order it from the US. If I get the wrong one, it's to expensive to return it.

 

Finding oil in the valve cover gasket harness says the valve cover gasket is pretty much shot. When you pull the valve cover, there is a pretty good chance the harness there will probably be melted. I would say a new gasket and under valve cover harness will probably get you going.

 

Yep ...

 

Ouch! Just what I didn't want to hear.

New gaskets and harness takes about a month to get here from the US. No dealer her in Norway/Europe keeps these in stock at a afforable price.

My last order from rockauto took 3.5 weeks. Good thing it's not my van

 

A small update.

Measured the resistance on all 8 glowplugs by disconnecting the wire connectors.

They read between 6 and 7 ohms except for the mentioned burned connector.
In that connector I got nothing.
So the cover is going off today.

 

The glow plugs should measure between 1 and 2 ohms each, but I guess if you're getting the same reading on all of them, it may just be that your meter reads differently. An open is definitely an issue, so I think you're right to start there.

 

Opened the valve cover today.
Nothing wrong in there, perfect wires in good, almost like new condition.
It's only the outer connector that is burned/melted.
Not even a drop of oil in any of the connectors under the covers.

Measured the resistance on all glow plugs again, and this time they're all different. The one with the burned wire measured 0.1 ohms today, the others varied between 0.1 to 10.0 ohms.
This is confusing, so i used a test light instead. Connected the test light to battery positive and touched the tip of each glow plug. Everyone checked out OK

Now what?

 

Nice and clean inside this engine.

 

Now I guess you need to replace that connector on the outside, and either thoroughly clean or replace the valve cover gasket on that side. When the connectors get that badly burned, the VCG usually gets screwed up too.

Generally the Glow plugs should be between .5 and about 2 ohms each. If they're higher than about 3 ohms I generally consider them to be weak or bad. If it were me, I would replace them since you're already in there and you're having trouble getting it to start. I'd also do a compression test while you're there if you have the tools to do so. The hard start and low power could be due to poor compression.

 

Nate is right on the money. But I never had much luck trying to clean the valve cover gasket. With you finding oil in the outer connection, I'm thinking that the gasket is on it's last legs. You may get by for a while with it, but I don't think it will last long. I would replace it along with the outer pigtail.

 

Ok, I'll tell my buddy to order 2 new VC gaskets with pigtails and a new set of glow plugs.

The turbo turns a couple of times round when I spin it with my finger, and there is no end play or anything. So I guess that one is OK.

A compression test is done with all glow plugs removed?
What size threads do the tester need to be?

 

Here is a link for the compression tester. Yes, all glow plugs removed.

Homemade Compression Adapter - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

 

Got hold of the previous owner, and both valve cover gaskets are new.
So all i need is a new pigtail and glow plugs.

Tested the glow plug relay, all OK on that one.

But, if the #5 cylinder glow plug has the burnt connector only, and everything else seems fine. Why does it run so poorly? Could the IDM be toast also?

Checked batteries again today, 12.89 volts and 12.88 volts (battery cables disconnected). Connected back in and measured at the starter motor 9.65 volts. Isn't the positive battery wire going directly from the battery to the starter?
Or is there a relay somewhere?