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No interior lights with headlights on

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Old 10-09-2013, 07:40 PM
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No interior lights with headlights on

None of my lights are working on the inside of my 79 F150. When the headlights are on the headlight work and the 4 marker lights but that's it. Even my switch for the rear cargo light doesn't work. I have tested all the bulbs they are fine, replaced all the fuses and changed the headlight switch still nothing. Anyone have the same problem or know where the problem is?
 
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:36 PM
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Check the voltage on BOTH sides of the courtesy lamp fuse, then report your results.

PS, I lived in Rolla for several years.
 
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:38 PM
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Ok I'll try that tomorrow.
 
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:03 PM
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fmc400 to the rescue....Stanley, listen to this guy he knows his sparks.
 
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:13 PM
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I don't wanna sound stupid but I don't own a volt a meter and I don't know how to use one if I did. Is there another way to check that?
 
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Old 10-23-2013, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by powerstroke79
I don't wanna sound stupid but I don't own a volt a meter and I don't know how to use one if I did. Is there another way to check that?
Solving any problem, especially electrical, takes the right tools. A multimeter costs under $20 and is pretty straightforward to learn. You'll also use it a lot more down the road, especially with an old truck.
 
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:33 PM
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Ok I will have to get one. Can someone take a pic of where to put the prongs at on the fuse box? I don't know anything about electrical stuff on these old trucks. Pic's for help a lot better.
 
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:43 PM
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While a multimeter is incredibly useful, if you dont have one right this very second and you DO have a test lamp, you can use that in this situation. or even a 12v bulb with a couple of wires would work. Youre not so worried about the amperage or voltage coming through your fuse as much as the presence of anything at all, telling you that it's OK.

If you had a test lamp or bulb (OR your multimeter) you can check voltage at each end by grounding to any cleanish metal surface one end of your test item and then touching one of the metal ends of your fuse with the other. You should get a light or blip on your meter on one end of your fuse; then touch the other end with the same probe you just used. If you still get the same reading, blip, illumination or whatever on both ends, then your fuse is OK.

If one end reacts and the other doesnt, that helps you figure out that you've got a blown fuse.
 
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:49 PM
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I just replaced all the fuses with brand new ones and still nothing.
 
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Old 10-28-2013, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by powerstroke79
I just replaced all the fuses with brand new ones and still nothing.
Where in my instructions did I say to replace all the fuses? Your next response should have had two voltage measurements, or at least a request for help in using a multimeter. A test light can be substituted per psychlopath's instructions, but moving forward you really need to get used to working with a multimeter.
 
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Old 11-01-2013, 07:58 AM
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I changed all the fuses months ago before starting this thread. I will have to get a multimeter and figure things out.
 
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