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1951 Ford F1 resurrection, jag IFS LT1, EFI, T56, etc

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  #91  
Old 11-25-2013, 01:28 PM
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Few updates, first off got a good deal on all the dash parts, I have everything coming except for the gauges. Still not sure if I will be modding factory ones or going aftermarket, will decide and then go from there.

Trying to finish up the chassis rough work so I can move to the body. Relocated the rearmost running board mount forward, there was actually a factory hole in the perfect spot for one of the holes so it made the job easy. Bolted up and then drilled the other 3 holes.

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New rear shocks arrived, installed and will work fine at the lower final height. Driveshaft rebuilt with new joints, got lucky and had one on the shelf that was the right length.

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  #92  
Old 11-25-2013, 01:41 PM
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Back to the front suspension, need new shock mounts for the jag suspension. Went with Monroe shocks PN 32022 which are the same design as the original jag shocks but shorter.

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Cut some templates

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First piece, made from 1/8" plate

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supports welded on

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Stiffening ribs welded on the back

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welded in place

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Should work fine, just have to weld on the other side and almost done with the chassis.
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  #93  
Old 11-25-2013, 06:35 PM
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Thumbs up NICE !!!

Wow !!! Those front shock plates you welded together, was Very Nice to see it come together and mounted, Looks like the shock went on Perfectly..... Nice to see new U joints.. I just did mine on my 58 F250 and runs allot quieter now I don't hear my shaft anymore, also replaced the Drive Shaft Bearing and made a world of difference, so NICE JOB on the Rebuild. In my Humble opinion I like Original Gauges, people down here in Florida always tell me ""WOW NICE to see ORIGINAL GAUGES". FYI.....
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  #94  
Old 11-25-2013, 09:15 PM
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Thanks, they actually look much better in person, flash makes them look like crap in pictures but they are actually pretty decent. Still deciding on gauges.
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  #95  
Old 11-25-2013, 10:41 PM
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Thumbs up Cool !!!!

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Thanks, they actually look much better in person, flash makes them look like crap in pictures but they are actually pretty decent. Still deciding on gauges.
Cool !!! Sounds good....
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  #96  
Old 11-26-2013, 06:17 AM
49willard 49willard is offline
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Your plan to hold off on setting the rear height is a good one. As you know, the jag xmember should be level going down the road to allow correct front end geometry. In that you set the jag xmember level with the bare frame level, you will want to bring the frame back to level with the fully assembled truck. You did not indicate if you have any jag large shim-big thin washers-between the bottom of the spring and the lower spring pad. A little adjustment on front end height can be done by adding or removing those shims under the springs. iirc, jag set the centerline of the headlights using those shims to set correct front end ride height.
You are making fantastic progress, keep it up!
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49 F-1 Jag IFS, 3.70 9" rear, 383 stroked sbc, 700R4 AOD
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  #97  
Old 11-26-2013, 06:43 AM
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Hey Dave,
I'm not super familiar with the Jag front end swap - As part of the swap do you need to make those new shock towers? Or did you do it for some other reason?

Ben in Austin
1950 F1
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  #98  
Old 11-26-2013, 07:46 AM
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Hey Dave,
I'm not super familiar with the Jag front end swap - As part of the swap do you need to make those new shock towers? Or did you do it for some other reason?

Ben in Austin
1950 F1
A number of us have done the Jag IFS. It fits beautifully under particularly the Bonusbuilt chassis. You can either weld it in or soft mount it as Jag did (and I did-see my gallery). Upper mount for the shocks need to be fabricated, either off the Jag K member or off the chassis. Less welding and much cheaper than a quality M2, however you do need to some fabrication.
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  #99  
Old 11-26-2013, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 49willard View Post
Your plan to hold off on setting the rear height is a good one. As you know, the jag xmember should be level going down the road to allow correct front end geometry. In that you set the jag xmember level with the bare frame level, you will want to bring the frame back to level with the fully assembled truck. You did not indicate if you have any jag large shim-big thin washers-between the bottom of the spring and the lower spring pad. A little adjustment on front end height can be done by adding or removing those shims under the springs. iirc, jag set the centerline of the headlights using those shims to set correct front end ride height.
You are making fantastic progress, keep it up!

Thanks, right now I have not taken the front end apart yet so there are probably shims in there now. I need the front end to drop another 2" and so far setting the engine and trans on has barely moved the upper arms off the bump stop. I figure I will have to cut the coils but I want to be careful and not overcut so I want to mock up all the front end to see what it looks like with all the weight on the front.
Anyone know how much drop you get on these XJ6 springs with 1/2 coil coil or a full coil removed? I set the jag crossmember level with the frame level, but I think in the end the rear will be up about an inch higher than the front. I dont think it will be a big deal, used to jack up the cars higher than that in the 80s

2nd front mount was installed today

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  #100  
Old 12-01-2013, 05:54 PM
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Back to work!

Got the christmas tree up today and then got some time in the garage. I think I have solved my fuel injection gas tank dilemma, going to be a rear mount tank, details to come.

So with a rear mount tank I had to relocate the rearmost frame crossmember and lose the smaller thin crossmember that was in front of it, that was done tonight.

Stock setup

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My rivet buster! Grind the head off the rivet and give it a whack with my home made punch and mini sledge. If the rivet doesnt move drill a 1/4" hole through it so it can collapse and hit it again, they come out easily. Bolt is from a 1982-2002 camaro or firebird torque arm, I have a lot of F body hardware around and it works great as a punch after a little grinding.

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Brace was welded on the top of the frame to keep it from twisting and the rivets were knocked out. Crossmember removed.

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Set into the back. Top of the frame stayed in alignment, bottom twisted open about 1/8" so I put a cable winch across the spring hangers to pull it all back together.

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Welded in place

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Gas tank work will be next!

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  #101  
Old 12-01-2013, 11:02 PM
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Talking Gas Tank

Hi, OK from what I saw you removed one cross member their in the back and you welded that rear one on... So the Gas Tank is going where you removed the cross member Right ????
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  #102  
Old 12-02-2013, 02:22 PM
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Started the tank setup today, this is the tank I ended up with. 1995 chevy van, 22 gallon with internal pump for fuel injection. Pump is for TBI so I will swap it out for a factory LT1 pump which puts out more pressure. Side fill so I will not have to worry about a bed mounted filler. Picked this up off craigslist, good deal but even new they are not crazy expensive.

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Tried the tank a few different ways, this looks to be the best position, will be mounted from underneath.

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Tank will be hidden from the side by the fenders and the rear slope keeps it from looking too low from the rear.

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Frame notched for the filler, I will box it from the back to stiffen it up.

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The smaller crossmember will be reused to hold the gas tank straps in the front.

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  #103  
Old 12-02-2013, 03:59 PM
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Looks good. Where are you planning to run the filler neck out at?
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  #104  
Old 12-02-2013, 04:30 PM
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Gas Tank

Got It !!! now I see where you are putting the Gas tank, Looks Good where it's at and it will work out fine their. COOL !!!
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  #105  
Old 12-02-2013, 05:48 PM
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Thanks!

Filler neck will be coming out on the back of the fender, few ways to do it so still deciding on the final look.
Boxed the inside of the rail to stiffen it up, at first I boxed too much of it and I wouldnt be able to get to the bed mounting bolt. Waste of welding wire had to cut it back some, at least I saw it now and not after paint.

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Tanks looks like it is going to work ok.

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