Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #61  
Old 11-05-2013, 08:28 PM
drptop70ss's Avatar
drptop70ss drptop70ss is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NY
Posts: 736
drptop70ss is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.drptop70ss is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Time is flying and I have too much to do but finally got some time today back on the truck to mess with the rear.
Looked through the parts supply and found a 3:23 posi from a 2nd gen camaro, perfect width at 61" and the perfect gear for the M29 T56. I cut off the mounts and was going to reuse them but decided not to.



After doing some mock ups and moving things around I think I have the rear where I want it. If you use dakota springs and mounts here is how I mounted them. This worked for me with the jag front welded in, may not be the same if your front end is at a different height but I it is a good starting point, the front mount may work no matter what and then adjust the rear as needed for height adjustment.

Front mount upper front hole was mounted to the upper front hole from the rear most running board mount. The running board mount was removed earlier.




Rear mount was flipped and bolted up at the rear of the frame at a factory hole. Hole is large and will be welded up smaller for final mounting.




Here it is mocked up, I have 3" clearance between the axle tube and the frame. Not sure if that is enough or if I need a small C notch, probably need it since I do want the truck to be able to haul stuff. Probably go with air shocks as well for insurance.



Dakota u bolts and lower plates, axle pads from summit. Pinion angle will be set and the pads welded to the rear later once the bed is on and ride height is set.



Reply With Quote
  #62  
Old 11-06-2013, 05:29 AM
49willard 49willard is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Harpswell Maine
Posts: 2,254
49willard has a very good reputation on FTE.49willard has a very good reputation on FTE.49willard has a very good reputation on FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by drptop70ss View Post
Time is flying and I have too much to do but finally got some time today back on the truck to mess with the rear.
Looked through the parts supply and found a 3:23 posi from a 2nd gen camaro, perfect width at 61" and the perfect gear for the M29 T56. I cut off the mounts and was going to reuse them but decided not to.



After doing some mock ups and moving things around I think I have the rear where I want it. If you use dakota springs and mounts here is how I mounted them. This worked for me with the jag front welded in, may not be the same if your front end is at a different height but I it is a good starting point, the front mount may work no matter what and then adjust the rear as needed for height adjustment.

Front mount upper front hole was mounted to the upper front hole from the rear most running board mount. The running board mount was removed earlier.




Rear mount was flipped and bolted up at the rear of the frame at a factory hole. Hole is large and will be welded up smaller for final mounting.




Here it is mocked up, I have 3" clearance between the axle tube and the frame. Not sure if that is enough or if I need a small C notch, probably need it since I do want the truck to be able to haul stuff. Probably go with air shocks as well for insurance.



Dakota u bolts and lower plates, axle pads from summit. Pinion angle will be set and the pads welded to the rear later once the bed is on and ride height is set.



It looks like the rear eye of the rear spring may not clear the bottom of the bed at least with a stock bed. Have you checked it?
__________________
Bill

49 F-1 Jag IFS, 3.70 9" rear, 383 stroked sbc, 700R4 AOD
Reply With Quote
  #63  
Old 11-06-2013, 06:45 AM
drptop70ss's Avatar
drptop70ss drptop70ss is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NY
Posts: 736
drptop70ss is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.drptop70ss is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Bed floor will be set at whatever height is needed, we arent going stock here with this build
Reply With Quote
  #64  
Old 11-06-2013, 04:40 PM
drptop70ss's Avatar
drptop70ss drptop70ss is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NY
Posts: 736
drptop70ss is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.drptop70ss is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Decision time and not sure which way I should go.

I bolted up the front spring hangers and started messing with the rears. With the rears flipped the frame is pretty much level, problem is I have no idea how much the bed will weigh or how much the rear suspension is going to come down once the bed is on, gas tank is in, etc. Front suspenion should come down 2" max. Concern is that the rear will come down more than 2" and then the truck will be rear down which I definately dont want.

I can put the rear shackles on "normal" which raises the rear 3", so then if the front comes down 2" and the rear comes down 2" I would still be 3" high in the rear, but I could throw on 2" lowering blocks as needed. Not sure which way to go! I may have to leave the rear loose until I get some weight on the truck and see where it sits.

Anyone have pics of the side of their truck that has a raked stance and a measurement from the ground to the front of the running board and from the ground to the rear of the running board? Maybe that would help me figure which way to go.

Reply With Quote
  #65  
Old 11-07-2013, 07:57 AM
AXracer's Avatar
AXracer AXracer is online now
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Durham NC
Posts: 14,213
AXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to behold
Chuck Frank
IMHO leaving therear loose at this time is a good idea. not onlt will the ride height change but so will the pinion angle'
__________________
Passionate about autocross racing!

1956 F100 Panel "GRACIE"
2007 Solstice GXP racer, the "KRAZED KANARY"
Third place finish 2009 SCCA National Championships
Reply With Quote
  #66  
Old 11-07-2013, 07:58 AM
AXracer's Avatar
AXracer AXracer is online now
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Durham NC
Posts: 14,213
AXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to behold
Chuck Frank
IMHO leaving the rear loose at this time is a good idea. not only will the ride height change but so will the pinion angle.
__________________
Passionate about autocross racing!

1956 F100 Panel "GRACIE"
2007 Solstice GXP racer, the "KRAZED KANARY"
Third place finish 2009 SCCA National Championships
Reply With Quote
  #67  
Old 11-07-2013, 08:22 AM
Wolfracing Wolfracing is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 189
Wolfracing is starting off with a positive reputation.
I didn't see in recent posts. Is this getting notched? Doesn't look like there is much travel room left.
Reply With Quote
  #68  
Old 11-07-2013, 09:41 AM
drptop70ss's Avatar
drptop70ss drptop70ss is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NY
Posts: 736
drptop70ss is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.drptop70ss is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
No worries on the pinion angle, I am not setting that until the truck is together with full weight, pads will not be welded to the rear until then.

C notch is going to depend on where I put the rear spring rear most shackles. With the shackles flipped and the frame level there is 3" clearance to the frame so C notch would be needed. With the shackles installed right side up there is 6" clearance, so maybe 4" after the bed is on? 4" may be enough to not need the frame notch. My concern is having the rear of the truck come down too much and not only look bad but be worthless for hauling, so I think for now I am going to put the rear shackles right side up and the truck will be about 3" higher in the rear than the front. If that ends up looking bad I can use 2" drop blocks and C notch the frame at that time as well. May change my mind again, who knows.

Reply With Quote
  #69  
Old 11-07-2013, 10:37 AM
dmack91's Avatar
dmack91 dmack91 is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Central Oregon
Posts: 899
dmack91 has a very good reputation on FTE.dmack91 has a very good reputation on FTE.dmack91 has a very good reputation on FTE.dmack91 has a very good reputation on FTE.
My son and I lifted the bed off of my truck (fenders on, no wood floor yet). I doubt it weighed more than 300 lbs. max.
Reply With Quote
  #70  
Old 11-07-2013, 04:02 PM
AXracer's Avatar
AXracer AXracer is online now
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Durham NC
Posts: 14,213
AXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to behold
Chuck Frank
Not many road shocks will allow more than 4-5" of compression travel before they bottom. You NEVER want the shocks to be the travel limiter, the valving is at the bottom of the rod, and hitting them on the bottom of the housing will destroy them in short order.
__________________
Passionate about autocross racing!

1956 F100 Panel "GRACIE"
2007 Solstice GXP racer, the "KRAZED KANARY"
Third place finish 2009 SCCA National Championships
Reply With Quote
  #71  
Old 11-07-2013, 07:28 PM
drptop70ss's Avatar
drptop70ss drptop70ss is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NY
Posts: 736
drptop70ss is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.drptop70ss is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AXracer View Post
Not many road shocks will allow more than 4-5" of compression travel before they bottom. You NEVER want the shocks to be the travel limiter, the valving is at the bottom of the rod, and hitting them on the bottom of the housing will destroy them in short order.


Thanks, I dont make my shock mounts until the suspension is loaded at ride height because of that. I have a shock book (gabriel I believe) that lists all part numbers with different ends, heights, travel, etc. I am going to have to throw a few hundred pounds on the rear of the truck to see how much it comes down. I will have a full bed with wood floor and a rear mounted gas tank as well, not sure what that weighs but has to be 300 pounds or so.How much rake do you guys run if any?

I just set a running board on the frame and with the rear in the higher position the front of the running board is 8 1/2" from the ground and the rear of the running board is 11" from the ground.

Reply With Quote
  #72  
Old 11-07-2013, 10:02 PM
SwOkcOffRoader's Avatar
SwOkcOffRoader SwOkcOffRoader is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: okc
Posts: 2,431
SwOkcOffRoader has a good reputation on FTE.SwOkcOffRoader has a good reputation on FTE.
How about some rear helper air bags?? Could be set up with lines and a valve just like air shocks. Then you set the suspension low, and air up to the height you prefer. I want to run bags all around on my 52.
__________________

Why is there never enough time to do it right the first time, but always enough time to do it again??
....Will work for Rep points....
Reply With Quote
  #73  
Old 11-08-2013, 08:51 AM
drptop70ss's Avatar
drptop70ss drptop70ss is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NY
Posts: 736
drptop70ss is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.drptop70ss is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Cool idea, but I want to try and get this to a "set it and forget it" deal. I am going to run with the rear up higher for now and leave the rear spring perches on with only two bolts. If I dont like the way it sits and I cannot get it right with blocks I will take the bed back off and move the rear perches. I am thinking too much about this, need to get the build moving forward again!
Reply With Quote
  #74  
Old 11-08-2013, 12:25 PM
preppypyro's Avatar
preppypyro preppypyro is offline
Posting Legend
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Saskatoon Sk.
Posts: 37,553
preppypyro has much to be proud ofpreppypyro has much to be proud ofpreppypyro has much to be proud ofpreppypyro has much to be proud ofpreppypyro has much to be proud ofpreppypyro has much to be proud ofpreppypyro has much to be proud ofpreppypyro has much to be proud ofpreppypyro has much to be proud of
Awesome info on installing a jag IFS. Have to add myself to this one for my future IFS install.
__________________
$Sheldon$
2003 F-250 supercab shortbox 4x4 lariat
~Everythings legal man as long as ya dont get caught~

A good fist fight never hurts anyone... except my opponent.
Reply With Quote
  #75  
Old 11-08-2013, 04:08 PM
drptop70ss's Avatar
drptop70ss drptop70ss is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NY
Posts: 736
drptop70ss is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.drptop70ss is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Thanks, hoping it will help someone. I have another F1 to do after this one and am going to use the same measurements again. This one is the test bed and all lessons learned will go to the next truck for quick assembly.
Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2013, 04:08 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Lets do it again! 1951 Ford F1 LT1 supercharged, 4L80E, EFI, jag IFS, etc.. drptop70ss 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 91 10-28-2014 09:25 PM
1954 panel truck for sale on CL..oh boy! drptop70ss 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 4 04-17-2014 11:37 PM
rear cab to frame measurement needed drptop70ss 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 11 04-03-2014 10:02 PM
51 F1 hood hinges welded to cab? drptop70ss 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 7 03-12-2014 04:21 PM
"firestone" heater for my 51 F1? drptop70ss 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 4 12-31-2013 09:33 AM



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:53 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup