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4R70W (AOD-E) fluid change and more...

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  #1  
Old 06-19-2003, 09:09 AM
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4R70W (AOD-E) fluid change and more...

I took my truck to an ATRA certified joint to have their opinion on my transmission problem.

(stuttering into OD, and hard shift from 1st-2nd)

It's common, and a fluid change usually remdies it, or tightening up valve body inside the pan.

Anyway, the previous owner has NEVER changed the fluid.

It has 125k miles on it, so I was leery about changing it out.

The transmission shop said they WOULD change it out (if they did the work)

They would then hook it to their machine (aparently some diagnostic device)

They said they'd also check for metal parts in the pan...

and if it breaks.. they would then rebuild it. (for 1600 dollars)

So I guess I have some money saved up for a new transmission IF it happens, so I'm going to go ahead and change the fluid out.

I figure I can check myself, for metal parts.

Here's my questions:

-How many quarts of fluid should I buy?
-Mercon III right?

--------------

I see a lot of transmissions in AZ for sale on ebay. Would you guys reccommend doing a swap on your own?

How heavy is the transmission itself?

I have a motorcycle jack, but not a transmission jack. (i don't really want to buy one either)

Is this something I could do on my own relatively easily with 4 jackstands, basic socket set (1/2 inch drive) torque wrench, and this motorcycle jack?

What I am planning on doing would be to order the transmission at full price. (I then have to drive to Des Moines to pick it up at their shipping location)

Then I'd drive home and swap out the bad transmission and then take the old one back down there for shipment..

But how much does the unit itself weigh? I'm kind of a weaking that way, and I imagine the girlfriend won't be chipping in, if it's 'dirty'

Just curious..

Thanks,


Luke
 
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Old 06-19-2003, 10:08 AM
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4R70W (AOD-E) fluid change and more...

My dads Bronco shuddered into OD for 190,000 miles and was still running strong. I would just change the fluid and filter. I believe you can get a shift kit for the AOD electronic version that will correct the shift points. They are about 80 bucks. Mercon fluid is what you need, I seen some Valvoline in the store that is supposed to reduce shudder. It may be worth a try.
 
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Old 06-19-2003, 11:31 AM
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4R70W (AOD-E) fluid change and more...

Before I forget:

What is the torque I need to apply to the valve body?

(I read that if you retorque the valve body, it helps the transmission shift better)

I can't find the capacity (in quarts) of this transmission online anywhere either...
 
  #4  
Old 06-19-2003, 09:59 PM
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4R70W (AOD-E) fluid change and more...

Man if it is anything like the E4OD in my '91 it is major league heavy. But is possible. A good friend and I did mine a while back. Four jack stands and some type of jack. A good set of wrenches etc. Done get in a hurry. Get a friend to help, I highly recommend it.

Mike
 
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Old 06-19-2003, 10:04 PM
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4R70W (AOD-E) fluid change and more...

Done.

I have my fingers crossed now.

So you guys reccommend changing this filter out after 1000 miles?

It cost me 43 bucks in filter kit and ATF.

I drove around a bit, and it's smooth like butter now.

Items of interest:

The donut magnet in the pan had about 2mm thick covering of gray metalic sludge.

There was a UTO (Unidentified Transmission Object) in the pan.

It's currently in my hand (see photo):



The fluid was not totally brown, but getting there. Man, I couldn't believe how much fluid resides in the torque converter. I had to plug it and drain my pan halfway through.

I would say I only got about a pint of fluid on my garage floor, which was amazing, given the ability to make a mess, that I have.

I used Simple Green and a plastic potato brush to clean up the tranny pan. It looks just like new now. scrubbed all the grime off of the pan too. One of the bolts on it was loose, and fluid was weeping on the pan enough to attract grime.

I hope everything ends up working out. Fortunately, I saw no metal chunks anywhere in the filter, which I cut open.

everything kinda had the dark gray color if you wiped your finger on it though (metal particles)

Is that normal?

I imagine letting fluid sit in there for 9 years and 125k miles is NOT good...
 
  #6  
Old 06-19-2003, 11:13 PM
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4R70W (AOD-E) fluid change and more...

The little part was the plug the factory puts in the tranny. When they install the dipstick tube it just pushes the plug into the tranny.
 
  #7  
Old 06-19-2003, 11:49 PM
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4R70W (AOD-E) fluid change and more...

Originally posted by mrwizard
The little part was the plug the factory puts in the tranny. When they install the dipstick tube it just pushes the plug into the tranny.
Yep It was noted on the how-to article mentioned above.

I was just in denial that the ATF had really been in my transmission for 9 years/125k miles....

After a 1/2 hour drive, I noticed that once the heat sets in, the shift from 1st to second is still not as soft as I'd like, but it has yet to shudder when shifting into OD.
 
  #8  
Old 06-20-2003, 12:30 AM
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4R70W (AOD-E) fluid change and more...

Sometimes it may get better later. You already found out what the UFO was. I bought a shift kit years ago for ~$120. I see some for ~$50 now. I still have but don't know where it all is. It came with a video tape and just changed springs and had you to drill a few holes in the valve body to change pressures. If you have to change the trans (Hopefully a lot later) try Blumenthal's Manufacturing in OKC. I recently bought a ZF6-650 for PS 2002 diesel. Their prices are fair and customer service is great. You can buy a top for a regular floor jack to change this trans for<$40. AODE is alot lighter than E4OD but unfortunately not as strong. It is plenty trans for your truck though unless you seriously modify the 5.0 or drive hard. The shift kit is worth the money on a "good" trans though. I'd hate to see you modify it and then it be too late. The only problem I had was blowing the rear cover gasket and losing my fluid.

Trans shops sometimes rebuild quicker than I would. They also make more per hr. than I do working on the truck. You can easily remove the AODE in a day. The trans adapter for a floor jack or borrow a trans jack to help stab it. Blumenthals will ship quickly. I got mine overnight for $85 through Fedex Trucking (I have website for Blumenthal and Fedex if you need it) but I didn't have to pay $200 sales tax. Hopefully you don't need to change it for awhile. I'd change the fluid again soon to help clean it. You may have some sludge in wrong places. Also all fluid doesn't get changed (trans cooling lines and bottom of torque convertor) so this helps clean it. Good luck.
 
  #9  
Old 07-05-2010, 07:34 AM
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Hi,
I'm about to go through the same thing as described by Luke.
If you're still here, how's it workin for you now?

How many qts of ATF?
What torque value for valve body?
How hard was this?

Any help is appreciated
 
  #10  
Old 07-05-2010, 07:57 AM
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The cOON mod

I do not know if this will work on your model trans ,but it is great reading.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ranny-mod.html
 
  #11  
Old 07-05-2010, 10:03 AM
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@mic,
Thanks that is a great srticle. Too bad Im not as mechanically inclined. I did find domething on u tube, but not the same tranny. But that one was on a bench, and it looks like it might get ugly from under the vehicle. I dont mind doing a fluid/filter change, but getting the valve body out seems like a PITA. I just want a little confidence this can be done relatively easily. like a day or two without special tools. Give me hope!!!!

I just want to get all gears back, 3 is now a false neutral. Everything else is working smoothly, no slip, slam, or noises, including the converter lock (OD button). If i leave in D and turn off the OD, it drops into 2. I think its a sticky 2-3 valve. Its got leakage from the pan, but I think its just loose bolts. It has held for fluid level since I got it 5 years ago, and that is not burned.

The truck saw little use for years, but is now the primary. it's solid otherwise, but I'd buy another before I drop +/-2k into someone elses hand to fix it "now". It might wind up being the project for me and the kid for his first vehicle.
 

Last edited by gottmoore; 07-05-2010 at 10:33 AM. Reason: not done whining
  #12  
Old 07-05-2010, 04:51 PM
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Well Like,
You sure are good at describing my tranny. How about coming over to help me finish?

The pan and filter are off (60 min), and mine was exactly as you described. I did get the converter drain lined up so I didn't have to stop in the middle of the drain. The fliud was much darker than what showed on the dipstick, but not burned. the pan was pretty clean on the inside,with a film, and 143k of wear stuck on the magnet. I can see how this sludge would bind a valve, and how a power flush wouldnt help at all!
The outside of the pan was a mess (loose bolts), and when I cleaned it THAT smelled like burned ATF.

Now ts on to the valve body-I'd still like some guidance here, but either way, I'm goin for it.....
 
  #13  
Old 07-05-2010, 07:54 PM
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youtube.com/watch?v=6Svl0fDl1qI&feature=channel


Thanks BEH you are THE BEST
 
  #14  
Old 07-05-2010, 07:59 PM
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youtube.com/watch?v=qtfABKmUYqQ

I finally found it. Thanks BEH53 whoever you are. This is a great vid series for an AOD valve body teardown
 
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