All,

I am doing a disc-brake swap on my Dana 44-4F front axle (1960 F-250 4x4).

I need to buy a wiper seal and gasket for the small ball, closed knuckle Dana 44. 4 Wheel Parts sells a kit that includes the metal retainers, bolts, seals, and gaskets but want ~$60 per side. That is crazy.

Anyone know where I can get just the gaskets and seals? I can't seem to find them. I did find the entire wiper kit for closed knuckle Dana 44s from old ****** Wagons on eBay for ~$20 for both sides. Any idea if they would work on my D44?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/******-WAGON-TRUCK-DANA-25-CLOSED-KNUCKLE-SEALS-/350872453738?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51b1a0c26a&vxp=mtr

 

Nate from what I can tell the ford part# is B9C-3132-A. For my truck not sure if yours is different. Did your axle have a data tag.
I'm interested in your disc brake setup. Please post pictures, experiences and details of your setup.

 

when i rebuilt my large ball dana 44 closed knuckle i did not reinstall the rubber wiper seal. My upper and lower bearings are now greased along with the axle shaft u joint. The rubber seal is made to keep the lube in and the water out. Now i stay out of the water and there is no lube in the ball. I did replace the felt and the steel wipers. Its been my experience that the seals never lasted very long anyway. When i did get them I got them from Randys ring and pinion. You might want to check with them but i would guess they wont be cheap. Good luck.

 

No such thing as 44-4F used on any year Ford. 1959/60 F100/250 4WD: Spicer/Dana 44-6F

D4TZ-3132-A (replaced B9C-3132-A) .. Steering Arm Seal Kit / Spicer/Dana # 706207 X / Obsolete

Last MSRP: $44.42 / Dealer net cost: $26.65.

Applications: 1959/65 F100 4WD / 1959/72 F250 4WD & some 1973/77 F250 4WD (High Boys).

B & B AUTO PARTS in Bronx NY has 4 = 718-597-3383.

NOS PARTS LTD in Waxahachie TX has 7 = 972-937-2201.

Another source: Engler Brothers Auto Parts on Pico Blvd. in Santa Monica CA

Autoparts stores go by the Spicer/Dana part number.

 

My Ford shop manual refers to it as a Spicer 44-4F
Just saying!

 

Very interesting that there should not be a 44-4F. My axle tube has 44-4F cast into it. As to the topic at hand, that ****** Wagon kit worked like a charm. Really nice to spend $27 instead of $150+. Also, I'll get some pics of my disc brake kit up when I can. I still am having to have the hubs turned down before I can finish assembly. FWIW the kit came from Blackbird Customs in Spokane. They don't have a kit readily available on their site for the small ball, closed knuckle 8 lug front ends but I called and spoke with the owner and he custom builte a kit. All I need now is a brake booster. Since I have the T98a 4 speed I'm a little unsure if I can get a brake booster that will mount on the firewall and clear the clutch master cylinder also. Any thoughts?

 

One more question, how much lube do you guys put in the hubs between the inner and outer bearings? When I pulled it apart it was FULL of all difderent kinds of grease. There is also that drain/fill plug that makes me wonder if there is supposed to be some kind of gear lube that goes in there.

 

Yes these knuckles were meant to have the same lube (90W according to the book) as the differentials. The wipers don't seem to hold the lube very well so I run straight 140W, it still slobbers but I live with it.
I pack the wheel bearings but don't add any grease in between, because I was taught that if you pack that area with grease when the grease in the bearing heats up the cool grease in between will draw the hot grease from the bearing. Don't know if thats a fact but thats the way I've always done it.

 

Theodore/Teddy/Wally (which is the truck's name and which is yours??), thanks for the info. I noticed in your pictures that you have a brake booster. What vehicle is it from? And would it clear the clutch master cylinder on the firewall?

 

Teddy AKA Theodore is the truck. I'm running an auto but the booster is one I pickup on Ebay. The booster has a ~3.5" stand-off bracket behind the 7" double diaphragm.It looks like there may be just enough room for a Clutch M/C next to it, but couldn't swear to it. I moved the brake M/C to the clutch hole to give me enough room to easily change the back spark plug.
I checked out the blackbird site. Like to see pictures when you finish. What part of the hub has to be turned?

 

Where is Spicer 44-4F? No see um.

1959/ F250 4WD: Left (upper): Parts lists #137 & #138 / Right #137 / Left (lower) #138.

 

The only (permanent) modification to your existing setup that needs to be done is to to turn down the OD on the hubs right where the lugs go through. This allows the rotor to clearance on the inside when sliding on. I'll get some pictures to make it more clear what I mean.

 

I see what you are saying Bill! All three parts lists have the heading of 446F. I never noticed that before. What I was referring to is the Ford Truck Shop Manual. And as Nate pointed out it is cast in to the housing. Another one of those things that make ya say HUH.

 

X2! Been thinking of swapping axles to get front discs in mine. Would love to see how this works! I have also seen an aftermarket 2-chamber master cylinder (made by CPP, I think) that would bolt into the stock location. It's not a true "Power" brake system, but the manufacturer claims double the braking power of the stock system.

 

Im along for the ride. Please do post up some pics of how that mod to the front axle goes. Blackbird is right here in town. Ill have to go to their site and send an email to see where they are located.