It's been years since I had to mess with my 4-way flasher but as I recall it's left of the steering column near the fuse panel.

 

The flasher is indeed behind the Fuse panel, right behind the turn signal flasher facing the firewall.
Used a curved tip flat blade screw driver to pry it up, no go. Tried a long pry bar against the bottom
edge and hit it with my palm several times and still not go.

There are 2 screws that hold the fuse panel to the fire wall. 7mm worked, not sure of the SAE equivalent..
Even with it removed the flasher would not come out. I figure it was probably rusty spades not making a
good electrical connection. But when the damn thing came out finally with bent spades, it was rusted in.

The new used one, I gave it a good coat of Dialectric grease, turned the ignition, pulled the 4 way and we
have flashing lights on all four corners.

Where the parking brake cable goes through the Fire wall I see day light, so a good path for water to come in.
Need to seal that off.

Need to get the Studded tires off by the end of the month, the Studs are wore down and don`t do much anyway.
And not wanting to mound and dismount, rebalance tires, I decided to pull out the Studs and keep using the tires.
They are easy to remove. give each Stud a squirt of something to lube them. First tire I used Windex....it was
handy. Use a small flat blade Screw Driver, and Hammer, tap it down along side the Stud till you hit the edge of
it. Tilt the top of the SD towards the center of the Stud. Tap down a little, then tip the SD the other way, and the
Stud will come up and out. First tire took me 40 min.
Second tire I used some soap. and that tire took 22 min. amazing the difference in time. With soap they pop right out.

Got some hot water, scrub brush, soap and scrubbed up the side walls and rims. Then gave them a coat of Armorall
to pretty them up. Got them mounted and torqued down to spec.

Charlie

 

I've never had any troubles out of my four ways because they never get used, but if I do now I know where to look!

Plenty of useful information here

 

Hey guys, I am new to this forum. I have recently bought a 1993 f 250 manul 7.3 idi with supposedly factory banks turbo. So far I have replaced all the lights, added new kc lights, new clutch, new hypermax turbo, and ordered new pyro and turbo gauges ( current pyro does not work). clutch was slipping when I bought it and I haven't really been able to open the throttle up until today. I took it for a quick spin and gave it a good amount of throttle and came right back. Everything felt fine. Not near the power that my 6.4 has, but this thing is a tractor, not a hotrod. Anyways, when I get back in the driveway, I let it sit and idle for about 2 minutes. I started to hear a sputter, like a fuel issue im thinking. I pop the hood and oil or fuel (I cant tell) is spraying up from the bottom of the turbo and a large puddle which looks like oil but with a grey tint ( id just changed the oil not less than 50 miles) but I cant see the exact source. Any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated as I am at the point of no return of getting this bad boy on the road. That's what I did today and will continue to troubleshoot until resolved. TIA

 

First thing is to identify the fluid. If it's green-ish, it's diesel.

 

I will attempt to get a good video of it this morning. I'm thinking it's oil.

 

I replaced my idle temp sensor these days. I had repaired the fast idle solenoid in winter 2018 just to find out the two-spade switch behind the thermostat had failed. Wired in a manual toggle switch under the dash and had operated the fast idle manually. Now I found time to change the sensor. Had a 23mm socket that fit there just right which made removal easy without removing parts. The only thing I did was tying the wiring harness out of the way with a ziptie. Didn´t drain the coolant but worked fast and had prepared everything beforehand. This way I only spilled one tablespoon of coolant. The whole thing only took a few minutes. I´ll keep the manual switch and wire in place in case the sensor acts up again or if I decide to do the fast idle mod ever.

 

I'm still learning about these truck. I got my oil leak fixed. Turned out to be a loose nut on main turbo mounting studs. What is the fast idle switch. I'm curious is there any benifit to this?

 

Behind your top rad hose horn at the motor is a temp sensor that activates high idle and cold advance for when the engine is cold. Some people like to wire the high idle solenoid to a switch if they do Amy extended idling periods as low idle causes diesel to wet stack in the cylinder.

If I wanted high idle I wouldn't fool with it, I would get a manual cable and rig it up to the throttle shaft for a manual high idle, reason being is even with the high idle solenoid adjust out all the way, it'll only put your rpms at 1k. Which is better than 700ish, but international recommends 1200rpm for any extended idle periods. I think direct injecteds 1100 is the sweet spot although a lot of guys say 1000 is enough. I'd imagine international knows what there talking about as they used this engine in many applications such as standing gen sets and water pumps. There was even a boat application mercury I think it was, had its own turbo setup iirc too

 

Thanks for the info. I did notice while I wasp letting truck warm up to check for oil leaks (took about 10 min to start leaking the first time), that it did idle a little higher for about 2 minutes and then it settled down a bit. I don't think I'm gonna mess with it. Just don't idle for long periods is easy enough. I drove it to work this morning and it's doing great so far. I'm stoked to get this old girl running good. She's no hot rod, but they are very cool truck in my opinion. I believe mine is the 93.5 first of factory turbo but who knows. People will say anything when selling a vehicle. Anyways, thanks for the info. Learning slot on this site.

 

Did pull the stuck fuel tank selector valve and installed new fuel hoses on my 1984 6.9 IDI.
Had been running on the front tank ever since I bught the truck. Instead of installing the new Pollack valve I had bought I decided to open the valve and judge if repairable or not. The motor did turn but the valve of the feed line was stuck, siphoning mostly from the main tank and slightly from the rear. What a luck I had the rear tank filled to the top when I got the truck. It was only one gallon left in there now and I would´ve gotten air intrusion trough the empty rear tank if I had driven the truck this way any longer.
Anyway, I took the valve apart and cleaned everthing. Had to toss the cover gasket for it was partly swollen and partly hardened. Used red head gasket RTV to create a new gasket and four M3 screws for assembly. Works like a charm now and I had avoided to fab a bracket for the slant Pollack valve mounting and splicing in a new connector.
Installed two inline filters before the valve to keep dirt out.
That rear tank hadn´t been used in many years I guess from what that diesel looked when I drained the tank. Filled it with a gallon of fresh diesel fuel and siphoned again to get as much dirt out as possible. Judging from the fuel inside the rear inline filter it looks ok now. I´ll run a few tanks then change the inline filter and main fuel filter in the engine bay. Hope I can avoid a new rear tank since I have no leaks, both sending unit are working and from how much I had siphoned it looks like the shower head tank mod had been done some time back for the tank was empty when the gauge was on E sharp.
As usual - no pics were taken due to working like mad :-)
Thanks so much for all the input.

 

Also found time to seal the top portion of the rear passenger side quarter window. It was leaking under heavy rain/storm from the top where the mounting screws are. I had planned to entirely remove the window and reseal but since the whole window was still prefectly tight everywhere else I decided to check the upper part for the leak and seal only that. The leakage was found to be the two grey putty like stuff they had probably used to set the spacing on the assembly line. Anyway the black sealing and putty stuff had disintegrated at one spot creaing a leak. I cleaned everything and resealed the whole upper part of the window. No more raindrops from the inside of the window :-)