Changed oil and filter last night, cleaned CDR valve in diesel also. I had it fairly clean and almost all the diesel out of it when my frozen hands dropped it. Spent the next 40 minutes swishing it in diesel to get everything out of it again. Got it done though!

 

New turbo and new trans.







Not sure how much farther I'll get tonight, running out of steam. I ran out and got a 3" hose coupling and put the intake and filter on. Might extend the exhaust the little bit it needs to reach the new downpipe. Still need to drill the third hole on drivers side for the crossmember, cab needs to be jacked up to get a drill in there. Upper brace for the crossmember on the passenger side only has one bolt through the top, I'll probably leave it like that unless I ever have the cab off. Need to put the new clutch cylinders in and bleed them, install the front driveshaft, and that's it for the dirty work underneath.

Transfer case leaks out all 3 shaft seals and has a lot of slop in the chain. I've broke more 208s than I can count so not sure I want to keep it. I have a fixed yoke 1356 and a married 205 under my bench, I'm leaning towards the 1356 if I can find a double cardan front yoke for it. Slight chance I may just rebuild the 208 and call it good enough, this truck doesn't go mudding and only uses 4x4 in the snow or odd occasion on sand or muddy dirt roads and 208 cases aren't $20 around here anymore. I'll likely save the 205 for my 460 truck or another big block build.

Aside from that, just the interior stuff. Cut the ZF5 tunnel cover for the 208 shifter if need be, install boots, etc...

I'm looking forward to 2000 RPM or less on the highway and shifting gears!

 

One man clutch bleeding... Fun.



Test drive was a success. Rubber in my shift handle feels like it's about gone so it was a bit of a mystery shifter. I'd like to find a normal 4 speed shifter without that sissy foreign rubber isolator nonsense and just weld that onto the lower part of the ZF shifter to bolt on, or maybe make one but I'd prefer to at least have a template. Still need to extend the exhaust 2" (really? Annoying...) and put the tunnel cover on, but I'll be out of town for the week so wanted to wrap it up and test drive.

 

^^ looks like you're about as redneck as me! Some of the crazy stuff I've done working on cars if my wife ever found out..... Lol


Replaced the junk autolite glow plugs with new Motocraft ZD9s. Pulled the entire engine harness since I need to replace the glow plug harness anyway. I figured that way I can pull out the old wires and make it look all purdy. If anyone has a good engine wiring diagram for my 91 PM me please, someone cut the fuel heater wire.

Anyone know what this little relay looking box is? It was right near the #1 injector. EDIT: Google says it's the water in fuel sensor??



Also if anyone needs it, Advance Auto has a promo code for $40 off a $100 purchase. I got 8 glow plugs, a power stroke oil filter, and some ring terminals for like $70! 8 glow plugs is usually $98! TRT41 I think is the code I used.

 

Got my new glow plug harness Friday. Got everything wired up, pulled out the Water in fuel wiring since it had been cut up.

Put everything back together today with a new 4ga feed wire to the relay. Looks good now! Had a hard time starting at first but once I fixed the other problem it started right up QUICK. Hopefully she'll start good now!

I think I've finally fixed all the starting issues between the bad grounds, weak starter, bad harness and glow plugs.

 

Replaced glow plug controller w/relay right before this cold snap hit! Starts much better now.

 

Installed the new style double ZF5 shifter boot and a new shift lever as well as the transfer case shifter boot, much quieter in the cab now. Tried installing the transfer case shifter and the linkage needs to be slightly longer to use for forward hole in the ZF or significantly shorter to use the rear hole. No luck finding an adjustable linkage online. I'll dig through my bin of random shifter parts and such and hopefully find one that'll work, if not I'll lengthen this one or make it adjustable.

Aside from that I need to bleed my clutch more. Grabs towards the bottom and need to be cognizant of the engagement point when shifting. I'll see if I can scrounge up an extra leg this weekend, if not dig out the rigged setup again.

I still need to adjust the wastegate on the new turbo, it'll build 8 psi pretty quick and nothing more. I'll see if I can get it in the 10-12 psi range and call it good enough.

 

I love it when a plan comes together!

 

Hey do you have a link for the shift boots? Mine leaks like crazy which is a major pain in the summer with no A/C and some smoke into the cab also like on startup.

For boost you can just unhook the wastegate hose at the diaphragm and plug the hose to keep boost from leaking out the turbo.
Unless you have a special pump it'll only make 12psi anyways.

 

I went out and started the truck to get her juices flowing and charge the batteries.

 

Locked the keys in the truck at the mall, it was below freezing and the wind was blowing. Time to get a hide a key so I don't have to wait 40 minutes for someone to come bail me out.


Other than my stupidity the old beast has handled our recent snow fall like a champ. I've been plowing through bumper deep snow the last couple of days and not gotten stuck once.

 

Replaced the fuse I blew, ran the new glow plugs and she fired off in a couple cranks! It was only about 35°F but she hasn't started that good since I bought her! Even in the Texas heat when I picked her up with the bad starter it was crank crank crank pray. So nice to have it working right!

Now all I have to do is finish putting the power steering back together and scrape up the money to register it in NY since the temporary plates expired 4 days before Thanksgiving...

 

Took the 86 to a shop this morning and had the rear brakes replaced.
New Drums, Shoes, Wheel Cylinders, Springs and associated parts.
New Rubber Hoses and they had to make a new steel Brake Line across the axle,
as the old one was about rusted through.
Also flushed the system front to back, and replaced the rear Lug Nuts.


Last night I picked up 22 Lug Nuts from O`Reilly`s, that is all they had.
Dorman Part# 611-061


Over the years of the tire shops cranking down on the nuts and over torqueing them takes a toll on them.
Was a bit pricy, $1199.00 $600 parts and $500 labor, Iam short on time,
it`s cold and Iam lazy, but it`s done and we can keep on rolling.




Charlie

 

for anyone interested come January this is the front bumper replacement I have designed to go on my old beater. to match the rear bumper I made

 

That's going to look good!