Please

Could some one tell me how in the Hell to get the back lower nut broke loose from the drivers side of the turbo

The part that has 2 bolts in the top and 2 nuts on the bottom.

So far I have broken 2 wrenches just trying to get that damn turbo off. An 8mm and a 10 mm.

I just got back from Lowes with a 15mm swivel socket 3/8 drive and it won't even come close to going on that dang nut.

All this just trying to put a new turbo wheel on......now I wish I would have left the 99- 03 wheel on my 1995

Oh I can't break it with a crow foot...I would use heat but too much fuel in the valley .....Yep I got to fix that too...

What a PIA

 

A swivel socket is supposed to be the trick there, I'm wondering if one by a different brand would be more compact? I also seem to recall something about cutting a wrench in half but I thought that was for the pedestal bolts. When I did mine, it was on a stand in the shop and it was still a pain, lol.

At any rate this should serve as a bump for you...

 

I think it is the only nut that is holding the turbo down......

I took out three 10mm bolts that holds the pedestal ....I hope that is all of them....that last one was a bear....

I there are more things holding the turbo down....I may just put it back with the 99-03 wheel and have a fancy paper weight Kinugawa performance turbo wheel 6+6 billet.

 

Nah, you've come too far to give up now. Let me look at some old pictures and see if I can find one that shows the pedestal bolts. I was thinking that there were four of them (two in the back and one on each "leg" in the front) but I may be wrong.

 

The bottom, driver side turbo collector bolt IIRC needs a wrench cut in half to get it off. Also, there are 4 pedestal bolts and the last one is a PITA..

 

Yup, 4 bolts. Here is the photo that proves it.



Two close together in the back along the EBPV piston, and two in the front, one on each leg or prong in the pedestal.

This also shows the close clearance on the bolts in the collector. If there are any other pictures I can post that will help you out, let me know. I recall that the one bolt on the lower driver side was a real pain.

Can you get a box end wrench on it? If so, I'm wondering if you could use a grearwrench type ratcheting wrench to get it loose. Or could you get an open end wrench on it to hold it and turn it from the back with a wrench? Other than that, I'm not sure what to suggest.

 

OMG..............

So there is another 10 mm bolt in the pedestal...............Sunny Beach

I broke a 10 mm wrench breaking the back bolt passenger side loose...I am sure the crow bar had something to do with that. I have spent the better part of 2 days trying to get that turbo off...

I just need less than a 1/4 clearance between the head and the turbo housing to get the turbo cover back in........

Now I know a Communist Bolshevik had to design that dang thing......


I may just put the damn thing back together with the small wheel

This thing is kicking this Ol'Mans A$$

 

These are the turbo wheels...

Left to right

99-2003 wheel I put into truck after DuraLite Filter Killed the (center) turbo wheel.

The New wheel is a 6+6 billet Kinugawa wheel That might not go in my truck

 

That one bolt is under/beside the ebpv part of the pedestal. That pic Nate showed has that part cut off. It's the round piece housing the ebpv rod. That bolt SUCKS. I used a 1/4 inch socket, swivel, extension, 3/8 adaptor, extension, 1/2 adaptor and a ratchet and got it loose. A good swivel socket will fit a little easier than the socket/swivel add-on.

 

Right now it is the 15mm nut that is killing me.....the drivers side....I am going to use heat and see if I can get it to break with the crow foot.

I have drowned it in Kroil for the last 3 days.....That is the best stuff I know to use on it...

If you see smoke.....don't call the fire dept.

 

Hahaha! Good luck Joey. That is a tough job for sure. And yeah, with the EBPV piston on there it's 10 times worse to get to.

 

Oh Yes..........Got the 15mm broke loose and off......

Propane torch more Kroil...

Nothing better than cutting a Snap-on wrench....but it worked with the help of a crow bar..

Now for the last 10mm pedestal bolt in the back on the drivers side.

Getting closer.....I hope

 

I feel your pain regarding the lower driver side turbo nut. I found that a stubby Kobalt 15 mm wrench from Lowes worked the best for me. Of course I had to use a pry bar with it. Mine was so rusted that I ended up shearing that stud and one of the top bolts completely off when removing my turbo for the first time.

After that experience, I went to Ford and bought a new y-collector instead of trying to drill out and tap the holes again. It made reassembly go much smoother.

As a side note, the last 10 mm bolt you are talking about can be gotten to with a short socket and 1/4" swivel with an extension. You just have to feel around a little to get it on. I broke a harbor freight swivel on that bolt, but luckily I had a spare.

 

Guys..........You are the Greatest

Got The Sunny Beaching turbo cover back on..

The info about the short 10mm socket, swivel 1/4 drive to 3/8 then to 1/2 on the rear driver side pedestal was just about the easiest bolt to get out...

I did not have to remove the turbo,,,I just needed a little room to put the turbo housing back on with the new wheel. I loosen both back pedestal bolts and removed the 15mm nuts. I could tilt the turbo housing just enough to slide the outer housing over the 86 mm long 6+6 wheel

I am done for the day.....

I'll finish it up tomorrow...this Ol'Man is Whooped

Again...Thanks for the info and support....I am sure without the support and inspiration from you guys I would have put the 99-03 wheel back on.

I'll let you know if the fancy wheel is worth the effort and pain....

 

Glad you got it Joey!

You didn't move it enough to have an oring move or anything did you? I hate to make you worry, but its a thought I had.