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Old 10-03-2013, 09:10 AM
68f10059 68f10059 is offline
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LIFTER/PUSH ROD/ ROCKER ARM

I actually own a 68 f100 but it has a modified 351 in it so figured this should go in this section. If I am wrong please move thread to proper section.

I have what seems to be a lifter tick on the passenger side of my engine. The engine was replaced about 10 years ago with a crate engine. It was driven for the first two years about 25k miles. The wheel cylinders locked up and the truck was parked until I recently graduated college and my dad passed it along to me. Well is pretty much driveable just has a terrible lifter noise. I need to know what all is involved in replacing the lifter/push rod/rocker arm as I want to fix this before it does more damage. Im unsure if it is just a lifter or one of the other components. I have had the engine running for about 3 or 4 hours since I got it and put fresh oil in it. Thought it would just take the lifter(s) some time to build up again but up to this point there has been no change. Now I am thinking maybe its a combination of things like needing a lifter and maybe a bent pusrod but wanna see how involved this is before I start breaking into this thing blind and have unexpected down time.

Thank you for the information in advance.
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Old 10-03-2013, 09:26 AM
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Mr7.50headsup Mr7.50headsup is offline
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Being my personal and not professional opinion, unless your well versed in engines id let a trusted professional do the work.
I have built many Chevy engines and no fords so I can't say with any confidence how similar they are but it should be close.
You would have todismantle the heads and maybe even remove the intake. If it's just a push rod could be relatively simple and that also means cheap. But it could also be a bent valve. Piston slap. Bad wrist pin. Nightmare of a problem.
If you have the time, patience, money, and wanting to learn grab a Chilton manual and always YouTube is your friend.

Please check parts availability before you start! Also think of anything you may want to change while your in there. I always took the time to port, match, polish my Chevy's when I had to open them up. Lots of time but always worth it, when done right.

Best of luck!
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Old 10-03-2013, 09:43 AM
f5fordgirl f5fordgirl is offline
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Pull the valve covers and move the rockers, if they are real loose, the bolts may have worked loose. And with the covers off, you can see if there are any bent push rods.
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Old 10-03-2013, 10:52 AM
68f10059 68f10059 is offline
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I have built some japanese engines and work as both a tech and service advisor in a dealership. I have never messed with an engine of this style but have helped in the process of building as my grandfather is a ford deisel tech and has worked with the gas engines as well. I just didnt know if there were shortcuts or if the manifold does infact HAVE to be removed.
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Old 10-03-2013, 11:01 AM
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The lifters will not fit through the cylinder head. You will need to remove the intake and valve covers. Pretty straightforward job.

These motors tend to wear out main and rod bearings pretty quickly in my opinion. How is your oil pressure? If its low it indicates the bearings may be worn and they will rattle when cruising down the road at constant speed. Just be aware if your not sure what the noise is it could be bearings.
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Old 10-03-2013, 12:15 PM
Filthy Beast Filthy Beast is offline
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One way to tell if the noise is from the top end - stethoscope...screwdriver....metal rod positioned where the offending noise is, and listen while she's running.

If it's that noisy under the valve covers, pull the plugs and valve covers, turn the motor over by hand such that both valves are closed on the questionable cylinder(s), and check the rockers/pushrods/lifters for loose-ness....fix accordingly. Basically what f5fordgirl said.

You could try running some Marvel Mystery Oil through the oil system - mebbe a lifter or two got gummed up/stuck from setting too long.
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Old 10-03-2013, 12:26 PM
68f10059 68f10059 is offline
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It doesnt SOUND like bearings. Surely not rod knock. Simple plug wire trick did not alleviate the noise. Definitely SOUNDS top end. Henceforth the idea of the lifter/pushrod/rocker arm. I know I need to just pull the valve cover and see butI would like to go ahead and have all the parts ready for minimal down time.
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Old 10-03-2013, 12:40 PM
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Lifters - Fedral Mogul # HT900 (if I remember) are plentiful at any parts store. Pushrods - well, you might have to wait either way on replacements...stock length = 9.500". Rockers are definitely a wait, if needed. Valve cover gaskets are readily avavilable.

Intake gaskets....not sure about availability but pulling the intake is by far the easiest way. I've replaced lifters w/out pulling the intake before using magnets. Right side is easier.

Would you not want to be sure of the problem first, then buy replacements? Either way, the valve covers have to come off.......
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Old 10-03-2013, 01:08 PM
miketaheny miketaheny is offline
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Getting to the lifters is a pretty straight forward job and I would recommend removing the intake. Inspect the pushrods and if they are ok (not bent or anything) keep them and the rocker arms in order so you can install them the same way they came out. Once the lifters are out, turn the engine over by hand and look for any damage to the cam lobes. There's plenty of videos on youtube that can show you how to adjust the rocker arms. If this is your first time doing something like this, expect it to take about 3 hours assuming you have don't have to run to and from the parts store or replace the cam.
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Old 10-04-2013, 08:52 AM
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F-250 WARHORSE F-250 WARHORSE is offline
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Pull the valve cover and look for a problem. Loose rocker, bad pushrod, broken valve spring, bent valve, it might be a fix without pulling the intake. If the intake comes off, distributor comes out, coolant drained, and avoid this if possible. Not horrible, but not any fun either.
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Old 10-04-2013, 08:52 AM
 
 
 
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