Summit Racing is the only place I could find with u-joints identified as Type 1350, which is what my F4 takes for all three u-joints.

I searched NAPA, O'Reilly and AutoZone, but can't find any reference to the 1350.

Summit has two 1350 models that can be greased, Moog 232 for $16 and Moog 331 for $10.

Does anyone have experience with either of these? Is there an easier way to find the right part?

 

When I was shopping for a hybrid joint, as part of my 9" conversion, I was shocked that none of the catalogs refer to the Spicer series designators, but every counterman worth a damn knows them. If you look up a '70 F-350 on the NAPA website, one of the joints is a 1350. NAPA AUTO PARTS

Compare the dimensions, cup size, etc. I guarantee you, AutoZone, Carquest, O'Reilly's all have these, you just need to trick their online catalog to find it. If you have a driveshaft shop near you, they carry them too.

 

If you don't feel like out foxing the parts boys computers the drop in to see the guys at your local Driveline rebuilder and they can figure it out in about 30 seconds .

 

Ross, I checked the dimensions of the U-joint in that NAPA link, and I think it's too short to be a 1350. The diameter of the bearings is correct at 1.188". The book shows a 1350 is 3.875" overall length, or 3.375" without the bearings. The one in the NAPA link is 3.62" overall. All the ones I found on AutoZone and Carquest sites for the 70 F350 center are 3.62" also. O'Reilly's site doesn't even have u-joints...

I guess I need to remove one and take it with me to a shop.

Thanks for your help guys.

 

^^^^^This^^^^ My local machine shop rebuilds drivelines and are the go to guys. There are some online driveline suppliers as well..,

 

I guess the first thing is, why do you believe it is a 1350? Have you measured it?

1350 shows 3.625 over the caps in this Spicer catalog, but your best bet is to match what you've got.

 

If you can't find an old guy with lots of gray hair at NAPA or another old time parts house, go to your driveshaft shop.
I carried the two piece DS out of Blue to my DS shop, laid it out on the bench and showed the guy dimensions and what I needed. He started at the transmission end, followed right back the DS, said what U joints it would require, what weld yokes I needed and said exactly what the existing U joint was on the original configuration. Had everything in stock, gave me a price and told me when it would be ready for pickup.
Find the right person, Joe, and he'll no doubt pick it off the shelf.

Edit: He did not have the center DS carrier bearing but mine was good. I did have to make the felt seals. And, Joe, there is a right way and wrong way to install U joints although I've seen them installed backwards and run with no problems.

 

Ross, I studied the Parts Manuals for about an hour to figure out which ones I need. It's all there in the books, but not really easy to decipher.
Pages 201, 205 and 210 of the Text Manual show the Drive Shaft Application Chart, my drive shaft (8T 4605) which uses Universal Joint Code 9 for the u-joints, and part number B5TZ 4635 - A which is a Type 1350.

 

The thing is, there are all kinds of variations on 13xx joints. The hybrid joint I use has 2 cups that are 1310's (1.062" dia x 3.219" wide), 2 cups are FORD 1330's (1.125" dia x 3.625 wide). That is a Ford-only 1330, but it's still called a 1330. Its dimensions don't agree with the typical 1330. Just yank one of the joints and take it in. Better yet, just take the whole shaft in and slap down the plastic, and say "fix it"!

I see in the Parts CD it shows Type 2 with internal clips; is that really how yours is?

 

Can't answer that one, as I have yet to remove any of the u-joints.

I'll follow up on this thread after I've taken one of them someplace where they know what I'm talking about... since I obviously don't.

 

The numbers on the far right of the chart (e.g. 5-178X) will work at NAPA/Carquest/O'reallys

If memory serves the 5-178X is the regular outside snap ring 1350 joint we stock on the shelves.

Sam

 

Thanks Sam.

I'll check that out.

 

PICS from 1948/56 Ford Truck Parts Catalog ~ Left: See TYPE 9 / Right: Parts catalog appications (also listed below) for TYPE 9.

Applications; 1948/52 F4/F5 - 1948/50 F6 (with key drive pinion) - 1950/52 F6 (V8) - 1953/56 F500 (except 2 speed rear axle):

B5TZ-4635-A .. 1350 U-Joint-TYPE 9 / Obsolete ~ Over 100 available NOS

Have you tried Engler Brothers Auto Parts in Santa Monica? Probably not. This is the best dang autoparts store in CA for older vehicles.

 

Thanks Bill,

Yes, those are the pages I used to determine they are 1350s. It took me a while to figure it out, but that's how I got there...

I've never heard of that autoparts store before, but I'm going to look into that now. I just checked their website. Looks like I need to call or visit them.

Thanks again.

 

If not in stock, Engler buys their parts from a wholesale autoparts warehouse in Azusa.

If in a hurry, you can pay for the parts over the phone w/a CC, have Engler put them on "will call" under your name, then you can whiz to Azusa and pick 'em up.

11/2011: FTE member (wagonerki) from WA bought a complete 1966 Bronco I-6 powertrain off ebay (in Menifee) for 100 bucks. Then flew here, stayed at my residencia, bought a mangy 1991 F350 stake bed off craigslist from an Opel wrecking yard in Rialto to transport the powertrain home.

Took it to a local shop, cuz it wouldn't run correctly, found out computer defective, no one he or the shop called had one. Rock Auto did, but shipping time was three days. He wanted to be home in time for Thanksgiving.

I called Engler, warehouse in Azusa had it, we went over and got it, shop installed it. Then he drove the mangy pile of miseries from my home...straight thru to Sedro-Woolley without a problemo, arriving Thanksgiving morning.

The F350's original owner (1991/2008) was the NAPA store in San Berdoo. Opel 'nut' bought it at an auction, but never could get it to run properly, so it sat unused in his dusty yard until Keith bought it.