I really don't use any Phillips except for drywall and hardware like locksets that come with them.

Went to Robertson for stainless screws and GRK for most everything else.
Back in the '80' s we were lucky to drive 30-40 screws with a Makita 9V.
Then twist your wrist for an hour + while it charged.

Bill would appreciate the LiPo batteries.
NiCad weight, longevity, self discharge and charge memory are bothersome.

 

I still have about 5 of the Makita 9's. Not worth getting batteries for.

My son and I built quite a 6' fence out of cedar a few years ago and used all Phillips deck screws. With the Ridgid 18v impact and two Li batteries we worked as long as we wanted since the batteries charged faster than we ran them down. Things have come a long, long way with battery-based tools.

Oh yes, my son started his new job on Monday - with Emerson Electric, the parent company of Ridgid.

 

I have an Emerson (Craftsman) 16 gallon wet/dry vac from 1985!
Still kicking!

 

I have dad's old Craftsman 16 gal wet/dry of unknown vintage, still works great.

 

And I have an old Craftsman that has probably three times the suction of my fairly-new Ridgid.

 

Did some more fitting, constructing today. Cleared the floor where the office will be as I need to at least get that portion built so I can fit the conduit for the door operator controls before I close the wall in. The offset at the front is to allow access to the door track if needed later.

Then I started working on how to support the 2X6 joists on the 16" centers the project engineer spec'd out. The arch spacing is nowhere near that close, so, On the uprights I installed, I cut a 14" angled piece of 2X6 for each one. Attached them to the outboard sides. I then took a 12", 15" and 17 1/2" piece of 2X6 and placed it on top of the angled pieces and against the 2X4 uprights. This brings a flat surface out clear of the roof arches that I can attach 16' (+/- to line up between uprights) 2X6 to to rest the 16" center joists on at the outboard end.

 

That answers a question I had. But it sure looks like work. Lucky that you don't plan to do too many of them.

 

Gary, you of all people should talk about work. I figured you would like it, since it may be a bit over engineered.

 

Good point. Ok, I LIKE IT!

 

I've finally worked my way around my cell carriers ridiculous hotspot restrictions (again)

Nice to be able to *see* your progress Bill!

Looking at your plates I think you will be fine using Tapcon brand screws.
Get the ones with hex/washer heads.
1/4" x 3 1/4" would be optimal for your application.
(1"-1 3/4" engagement)

Looks quite sturdy, but could be stronger still if the grain of your tapered blocks followed the slope back into the lower ledger.
There would be no shear that way.

 

Good point Jim now I just need to figure how to cut them that way.

 

Ok, based on Jim's recommendation, I cut the remaining blocks so the grain follows the angle and installed 3 more sets (I cut all the wood first).

 

Looks good, Bill. Won't take long to frame up the rooms.

 

I think I might have put a single 2x6 in each of the bays.
Stagger screwed to the ledger on the flat there's little chance it could rotate.
Those blocks are ultimately being supported on the angle iron if the fasteners crush the wood fiber.

I wonder how you are going to deal with that step in the wall finish?

Gary,
You should try a Cleanstream HEPA filter in your vac and get a noise muffler for the discharge.
The PTFE coated filter makes it much easier to knock the dust off and removes smaller particulates that get through a conventional fiber filter.
Best $35 I ever spent when I don't have to spend an hour wiping drywall dust off a customers furniture.
(they are happier too )

 

I'll try that, Jim. Thanks!