Jim, I would have to deal with it no matter what, I plan on spacing the paneling in to clear the 3/8-16 bolts and nuts that attach the arches to the base connectors. That will give me a flat wall up to 6' 4 1/2" and I will probably have shelves on that side for manuals. The remainder from there to the ceiling won't really matter due to the height. That wall is also where the water line will be run and insulated to feed the bathroom (white pipe visible near the front in the pictures).

 

I finished up the supports for the joists in the front portion of the garage (office area). I found, as I thought I would, that I have a slight problem. The project engineer has specified 16" centers for the joists, the arch spacing doesn't even begin to coincide with this dimension. I will have a number of places where about all the support I will have is the 1 1/2" depth of the 2X6 on edge. The problem is the curvature of the arch will preclude more than a very small vertical rise before it has to be cut for clearance. Black marks are 16" centers using the joist at the front wall as a starting point.

Any suggestions from either the engineer or someone in construction?

 

I don't think bearing is the issue.
Maximum span for a 2x6 SPF #2 ceiling joist @ 16o.c. is 10'6".
They only need 0.56" of bearing at each end.

Maximum Span Calculator for Joists & Rafters

 

Ok, I think I will be under 10'6" since the inner (shop side) edge of the wall is 10'10" and I took up 4 1/2" to the support. Thanks! Once I can rep you I will.

 

I added 20 ft of 16 inch deep shelves to my shop. They are 3 shelves per run. They are about 52 inches to the bottom shelf I will run them another 10 feet soon. I ran out of plywood

 

Jim, I have another technical question for you. You have seen the pictures of the supports I set up in the side wall for the joists. Do I need the double 2X4s or would 1 work adequately as long as I use a gusset under the upper 2X6? Thanks!

 

You have a 2x6 on edge laid out at 16oc, I don't think you need any plate if the span only calls for 0.56" bearing, you already have almost 3x as much as you need.

The 2x6 on edge can easily span the 2' or so from rib to rib.

Why are you asking about a gusset beneath the 2x6?

 

Because of the angle the main 2X6 sits at in relation to the vertical portion of the wall.

 

This picture makes me think the main 2x6 is going to be sitting vertically???

 

Yes, look up at post 362 you will see the main 2X6.

 

Okay.



What am I missing?
What needs to be gusseted beneath the 2x6?

 

What I was asking is instead of two 2X4s in each pocket, would just one suffice. I would still angle cut the gussets (slanted pieces) per your recommendation and have the three 2X6 sections behind the main board that will support the joists. The issue is having to add 25" from the metal angle to get to 8' for the ceiling.

 

It appears that the metal sections are about 24oc and you are framing on the flat.
Not sure of how much weight you might put up there.
As I said in a previous post 'I might use a single 2x6 on each bay'
What height is that angle at?
You say you need to make up xinches to 8'.
I can work with that?
This would help figure the loads.

 

The top of the angle is 71" up + 25" = 96" or 8'. As far as what I may put up there, spare parts, Christmas yard decorations, extra fluorescent tubes, extra ballasts. The front section (the portion that is done on the side wall) will have an RV air conditioner on it for the office and over the bathroom may be a water heater, that is a TBD item depending on whether I look into a demand one or not.

 

If you have a shower go with an on demand, if just a sink use an insta hot.
There's no reason to keep water hot unless you already have a domestic coil in your existing home boiler.