New Garage/Shop
#182
#183
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#188
No rain, it must be on backorder from Tulsa. If you are referring to removing the flange, yes, it will actually be easier that way. The uprights have to sit 1" back from the flange to allow for the sheathing (1/2" plywood), tar paper and siding and need to be cut to fit. Considering that a bunch of the lumber is 2X6 X16' and the building is approximately 18' at the top of the arches and lower at the bottom and the 2X6 will be slightly deeper than the space between the flange and the first arch and the slope, it will be a lot easier to cut to fit. These end pieces are to provide a solid support for the sheathing at the ends.
#189
Got some stuff in the mail today. I had ordered a set of Gama Electronics RF340-DRC remotes for the OHD operators. Before I ordered them I had asked if they had a keypad that could work the doors from outside without the need for a keyfob.
I received an email from them telling me they had just finished testing a wireless keypad and released it for production, but it required a software update on the receivers and did I want my order held until my receivers could be updated. I told them yes. When I opened the box, there were my two remote systems, one extra key fob and a wireless keypad. I sent an email asking what I owed for the keypad and was told nothing, you can be our guinea pig, just let us know how it works. So here is Gama Electronics wireless keypad #1 and one of the systems.
I received an email from them telling me they had just finished testing a wireless keypad and released it for production, but it required a software update on the receivers and did I want my order held until my receivers could be updated. I told them yes. When I opened the box, there were my two remote systems, one extra key fob and a wireless keypad. I sent an email asking what I owed for the keypad and was told nothing, you can be our guinea pig, just let us know how it works. So here is Gama Electronics wireless keypad #1 and one of the systems.
#191
I looked at the roof panels (the straight ones) and starting with the upper bolt at the eave panel and going all the way to the lower bolt on the ridge panel there are 23 bolts. This means if I use the 12th bolt, I will be centered on the roof sections as your design shows.
I found a problem, however, when I put the first 4X6 in, if you look at the picture, you will notice something isn't right, there is more of the upright visible at the top than the bottom. I rechecked the 4X6 and it is plumb in both directions, checked the wall, and with the help of a neighbor got some pictures. The front is between 1 1/4 - 1 1/2" out (leaning outward) in a 4' span at the front, the back isn't as bad. What it tells me is the erection crew didn't square things before everything was tightened.
The engineer at Steelmaster said it is not uncommon for one of these to drift a bit before the ends are closed in, but he agrees this is a bit much. There is a fix, just takes at least two people, scaffolding if possible and believe it or not, ratchet cargo straps, the little ones. I will not be able to do anything at the back as the rear panels would have to be modified.
I found a problem, however, when I put the first 4X6 in, if you look at the picture, you will notice something isn't right, there is more of the upright visible at the top than the bottom. I rechecked the 4X6 and it is plumb in both directions, checked the wall, and with the help of a neighbor got some pictures. The front is between 1 1/4 - 1 1/2" out (leaning outward) in a 4' span at the front, the back isn't as bad. What it tells me is the erection crew didn't square things before everything was tightened.
The engineer at Steelmaster said it is not uncommon for one of these to drift a bit before the ends are closed in, but he agrees this is a bit much. There is a fix, just takes at least two people, scaffolding if possible and believe it or not, ratchet cargo straps, the little ones. I will not be able to do anything at the back as the rear panels would have to be modified.
#192
#195