Alright guys I just bought a 95 F-250 4x4 E40D with a 460, and it feels like it needs help. It seems pretty weak for what I thought as realistic expectations of a 460. It has a C9 Axle code so if I read right it's 3.55 gears and it has 285 tires on it so the larger tires could be hurting me too. I already know I am getting rid of the cat and getting new exhaust.
So what can I do? I have heard that the timing is retarded on these efi 460's is that true? Can I just have my mechanic advance it, or does the efi prevent that somehow? Will it help anything to advance the timing? Any other cheap things I can do besides headers and intakes?
The cam timing is not retarded on the EFI engines, only '71-'87 carbed ones.
The ignition timing is computer controlled, but in order to adjust it you must remove the 'spout' plug first, so the computer is not trying to compensate while you are turning the distributor.
You can probably go to 12* static without any problems. (depending on load and fuel)
Do you think I would gain anything by advancing the timing? I see it all over the place where people are claiming that advancing the timing adds power to the 460, but I came here to get the real answer, because I know FTE guys know what they are talking about.
Advancing the ignition timing a bit should improve power.
Whether it is noticeable is the question.
These trucks don't have a knock sensor so they are tuned to the worst case scenario from the factory.
My 1995 f250 with 460 was a dog when I first got it. Finally checked the timing with spout pulled it was set at 0 degrees I advanced it to 12 degrees. The difference was like I had swapped In a performance engine. So my advice check and set the timing
I just had to troubleshoot this problem on a guys truck, he had a shop charge him a pile of money to replace ECM, Computer on the dizzy and some other crap after he hooked the battery up backward. With the spout out it was at 10deg retarded and it would barely run, after correcting that it would bark the 35" tires with his 3.55 gears even though it still has too much tire for the gear it was a night and day difference.
If you're looking for extra bits of power for free you can cut the reducers out of the H in the intake track and depending if you are allowed in your area (legal disclaimer) remove the cat and put a free flowing muffler on. Not sure if your year has air deflectors in the air box but you can check and cut them out if it does.
My questions relate to the spout connector. My truck is a 1998 Winnebago Adventurer with the 7.5l. I too feel it runs poorly in relation to my expectations. Is the spout connector a wire that runs from one of the terminals on the coil...has a single inline connector...and runs to what looks like a resistor terminated at the mounting bolt(ground) at the base of the coil? And proper timing is set with it disconnected? And it stays connected during normal operation? Thanks!
Another issue is the location of the timing pointer. Anyone have any tricks to see it? From what I can tell, it is supposed to be viewed on the passenger side of the engine from roughly the 10 o'clock position....No way to do that directly in the motor home! Maybe hook the timing light to a different cylinder and fabricate a pointer straight down or in another more accessible location?
Thanks for the response. That makes sense about what connector I was looking at. I was not getting any timing change when it was connected verses disconnected. I will follow the wiring from the distributor and try to find the spout connector.
Finally found the spout connector! It was on the firewall under the hood. Checked the timing and no advance when it's disconnected! Finally can set the timing when we get home from camping this weekend. AND I think I figured out how to view the timing pointer.....gotta put the RV up on the leveling jacks and look at it over the passenger tire for anyone who cares!
I had to add a timing mark on a big block Ford motor home one time. Could see the mark and pointer when engine wasn't running. Wasn't sticking my head in there when it was running. Set the existing pointer to tdc. Went underneath and fabricated and attached another pointer to the eng. Then Marked harmonic balancer with a punch and some white paint. Used a advancing timing light to set the timing.